Sunday, November 27, 2022

Respect for Rwenzori





 

Now that's a Birthday!!  

 



With my 60th birthday approaching fast, doing something dramatic and adventurous for a change of pace seemed necessary. And having summited many African peaks - the 3rd highest beckoned as seductively as Dua Lipa in lingerie. Could I stand on the summit as I turned 60? Maybe a bit ambitious and egotistical - but that's kinda how I roll.

First call was to Andy with whom I'd hiked other peaks (Kilimanjaro/ Mt Kenya/ Elgon/ Mt Meru and others over 3500m). Andy said I was crazy and foolish to attempt Mount Stanley in the rainy season and then immediately agreed to join in. Such is Andy's nature. Always up for adventure with a delightful chuckle and a smile.

Next on my list was John with whom I'd formed a wonderful friendship after meeting him climbing rocks near Nairobi. He was likely crazy enough to join I reasoned. On calling John - I learned that he was to be attending a high falootin conference with great food somewhere exotic on those same dates. He declined politely. Very shortly thereafter John called back. "What was I thinking?" he said excitedly "Sign me up for a crazy foolish adventure please". High falootin meetings and good food are easy to find -- crazy foolish adventure is not.

Last to be called was a wonderful man I'd met recently and was relatively new to Kenya. He won't know better I thought. I was both correct and pleased when he quickly added his name to the list. Ryota is an exceptionally gifted human with equal parts of enthusiasm, athleticism and cheerfulness.

Duncan from Xtrym Adventures organized the event and added a couple more bringing the total to six crazy foolish souls ready to attempt the 8-day hike.

Mount Stanley is the highest mountain in the Rwenzori range with Margarita peak reaching into the sky at a heart-stopping 5100m. For the record - there were no cocktails at the top - and I was forced to bring my own. Thank goodness I had the foresight!! ... though a nice fresh Margarita would definitely have hit the spot. 

 

The mountain straddles the Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda and there was a couple things Andy, John & Ryota noted as potential concerns: 

- Ebola is raging in Uganda

- Rebels are said to be popping over uninvited to say hello from neighboring DRC

- There are glaciers to be crossed using equipment we were not super familiar with

- and it will be raining- alot!!


Those were definite concerns - but outweighing those concerns was that it would also be very interesting. As example, we would be hiking within an actual Kingdom -- the mystical Kingdom of Rwenzururu to be precise!!!  The first stop therefore would be to ask the King for directions, tips and tricks. Unfortunately, the King wasn't home at the palace, so I had to settle for a picture at the gates. I note below some fascinating bits about the kingdom.



Rwenzururu Kingdom;

The monarchy occupies the regions of the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda in the southwest.

As a political move by the British colonialists to consolidate the British Uganda Protectorate, by the start of the 20th Century, the Rwenzururu people; the Konjo and the Amba, were forcefully integrated into the Toro kingdom which they initially accepted.

After several attempts in the 1950s to acquire their own administrative district separate from the Toro district, the peoples’ movement declared that they were not part of Toro – 3 month before Uganda’s independence.

Through independence, with the authorities continuing denying them this status, the Konjo and Amba launched a low-intensity guerrilla war calling the armed struggle – Rwenzururu. They declared their own independent monarchy of the Rwenzururu in June 1963.

They continued with the movement and struggle to establish their autonomy facing strong resistance from Toro. They fought on through the 70s and early 80s.

And in a survey carried out, with over 80% of the people in favor of the creation of the monarchy, the kingdom of the Rwenzururu was finally endorsed as a cultural institution in March of 2008.

 

 

 

Intrepid and excited we hit the trail for 3 long wet days of jungle trekking. "You'll need rubber boots for one of the days" the organizer Duncan had told us. After 7 days of mud and boots I had run out of curse words for my friend Duncan. Ponchos and rubber boots ruled the days.

 

At the same time - wild Chimpanzees called out to one another in the distance-- the magnificent Rwenzori hawk slipped quietly between the trees. At one point, as we trekked along a large Colobus monkey tracked out progress suspicious of our motives. He finally lost interest though perhaps scared off listening to my cursing Duncan. 

 

 

 

 

 


 Summit day came up quicker than Max Verstappen on Lewis Hamilton at an F1 race. We were all quiet as we set off in a gentle rain at 3am. Little did we know it would be a full 24 hours before we returned to our down-filled sleeping bags and hot water bottles. 

To say it was tough would be an understatement. The first hours were gumboots and headlamps through bog and later working our way up the rocks scattered throughout some small streams. The red line below is similar to the path we took to the summit.

 

 


 
Four hours into the hike we traded our much-despised gumboots for our hiking boots and climbing harnesses. The next hours were spent negotiating one pitch after another with each becoming a bit more slippery as we moved higher on the mountain. 

 


 

The glacier was soon just in front of us and we slipped into our crampons and tied off to one another. The next couple hours were slow and steady though terrifying as we made our way close to the granite face and the crevasse that appeared to have no bottom. the 10 meter long ice bridge was less than a half meter wide and my thought was that sliding off the ridge would not be nearly as exciting as my many snowboarding adventures. Of course I had the others tied to me just in case. Hmm I thought at one point .... wouldn't I just pull them down with me?  Best to cross that ice bridge when I come to it. Hehe

 

As always, the summit was as wonderful as the brandy passed round to celebrate the accomplishment. My 60th birthday now celebrated - it was time to go back down. Dark was fast approaching, and the next 9 hours would be as cold as they were dangerous. We slipped and fell many times as we steadily worked our way down worrying all the time that the next step would be a slip and broken leg. Ironically - while we all made it down safely -- I somehow managed to twist my leg getting off the airport shuttle as we arrived from the plane. Go figure.


 

 

 

 And now M-Gas !!!



The M-Gas team proudly opens 1 of 22 new depots in Nairobi!!! 

 


My newest role in Kenya is working with a company that provides propane gas to low-income families. Almost all our work is in the slums of Nairobi where we provide access to cleaner cooking solutions (rather than wood or charcoal). The trick is a meter that functions like a transit pass. You load the money onto the card - and simply pay as you go. This allows low-income families to access LPG without the heavy financial burden of buying the cylinder and 13kgs of gas all at a go. 

We provide the stove and cylinder at no charge and the rest is pure magic. In a very short couple of years, we have added 350000 households onto the program. I'm really pleased to be helping low-income families and of course make an environmental difference as families can make better environment choices. The use of charcoal is an inexorable scourge. The health and welfare of both the people who use it, and the planet are at risk. 

As my brilliant Mom always says - "Environmental consciousness is a privilege of the wealthy". True - but maybe that is changing.


 

Cleopatra 

Or simply Cleo -- was supposed to be a Black Labrador retriever but as she has grown (now 7 months) it is becoming more and more obvious that she is anything but. Delightful? - oh yeah!!  Curious? - you bet!!! -- but if you throw a ball for her to chase the look of scorn and derision seems to say, "you threw it you get it". Not very Lab-like. More princess than dog really.










 

 

 

 

 

That said she loved my son Jake who stopped in for a visit from South Africa where he is now taking that country by storm. And not surprisingly - he's a fine young man who turned out honorable, decent and cheerful despite my parenting. Is there a handbook now?


 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 He's now also living in Africa though slightly south in Cape Town. It was cool to see him as a young man making his way. Life is beautiful nést pas? 

And as a particularly convenient segue that ties my request for cashola with my son's decency; he correctly predicted the score and won the cash pot after watching the World Cup in a local bar. He then turned to me and said, "use this is for the kids Dad". Though inwardly melting I replied with a simple "cool" and "thank you".


Just Food Africa

Below are the cake-faced PP2 kids just recently graduated and going into Grade1. How exciting!! I love (x 1 million) the smile on the boy's face at the right. Together, through our donations we helped to bring this smile to that boy's face. Thank you for that. Very cool!!

 

 

 

 

Grace and teacher stand proudly with the kids who display their certificates confident and excited about their future at Malezi school. The slum stretching out in the background reminds me that it not where you're from that matters. It's where you're going that's most important.

As an historical reminder, Andy and I (pictured above), and others developed a computer literacy program about 5 years ago. That program led another organization to step in and install 25 desktop computers for the kids, this has made a huge difference in these kid's lives. 

We continue to find ways to support the kids and the school. For the past 4 years - I request and receive funds from generous souls with a bit of spare cash ($50 helps a lot) with which I purchase food and take it to the Majengo slum where Grace does her magic at the Malezi school. The food is bought at competitive market prices (not United Nations inflated pricing 😝) and delivered by me. There is no administration charge or single malt scotch for me. It all goes to the kids.


If you would like to donate - you can email me to chat about it or do so through:

MPESA -- +254745237248

Pay Pal -- laynegmahon@gmail.com

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com

 

 




Thanks for reading ..... Layno riding the Ngong hills!!!