A completely different perspective

Rembrandt's brilliance and a new perspective

Looking down one of Amsterdam's many canals on a beautiful and cool fall day

I traveled to Amsterdam last week and found myself with a whole day and nothing planned. Well!!!! Walking around exploring Amsterdam is always interesting, but I decided instead to visit the Rijks Museum where many of the Dutch Masters work is displayed. Pictured here is the Rijks "lobby" looking in from outside. Though cold and somewhat austere, it nevertheless was a warm and welcomed sight after braving the windy 4 degree temperature on the 1 hour walk from my hotel. And yes - I was dressed in "Africa-wear". I should have thought of that before leaving Nairobi but didn't....frozen dumb-ass......

This fine fellow guards a gallery just down the road from the Rijks. I had to include the photo as I found it really spoke to me. From deep within me stirred long forgotten memories of construction projects with my father. This one is the classic "where did I leave that damned hammer".

Surprisingly I didn't see the cool figure in the background doing  a handstand on the edge of the building. It was only after looking at the photo that I noticed. And that reminded me of my mother who always manages to get a thousand  things done at once and still have time and energy to entertain in dazzling and spectacular fashion!

Once into the Rijks there is a dizzying array of great works from the past. Van Gogh and Rembrandt are definitely the lead acts but it's a pretty darn good collection of supporting artists as well.

I'm not usually a big fan of painting (rooms or canvasses) but as I wandered from room to room I found myself more and more engaged. In part, this was due to Joeleen, who I'd met on Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar. She completed a graduate degree focusing on symbolism in early Renaissance art. Her "teaching" over beers one night gave me more insight than I had previously had. Also, the museum provides an ''Idiots guide to Dutch Masters" handout at each room adding to the experience. With time and patience the experience was richer and more memorable than I had anticipated.

I sat on the bench with this classic for quite some time trying to bring understanding to the "value" of the work. It was the first time that figures had been captured in movement rather than still and portrait-like. And here it isn't just a figure or two but a whole group involved in something united by the space and tasks ahead. I started to understand the brilliance of the work...

But it was this Rembrandt piece that finally did it for me. It was like an awakening as I discovered and understood the true brilliance. I became fascinated by the consistency of the light splashed on the subjects as they huddle conspiratorially in the glow. The casting of light and shadow is flawless as you examine each face and fold of clothing.

And it was here that my understanding of what happened at Kunduz Afghanistan fully registered within me for the first time. I wept then for my fallen teammates but more for the feeling of loss of innocence that reached deep within.

I now see the world differently than I once did. The lives of so many lack the value I had attributed or placed upon them. This is a concept that was almost impossible to understand from my previous perspective.

And in the days that followed the bombing I desperately searched for a "good" explanation for what happened that night in Afghanistan. I discussed with many people inside the organization and generally.

Suddenly, I could no longer suspend my disbelief and was forced to confront this reality. The hospital was targeted because it assists the Taliban - it means that the Taliban will be busy dealing with their wounded as MSF will no longer be there to assist. It means that the Taliban who were injured and being attended to by our team were considered targets and the cost of innocent lives was a price worth paying to kill them. It means that even though the injured are legally no longer combatants in war, their deaths suited the overall objectives of a government that conducts itself with impunity and reckless disregard for the misery it leaves in it's wake. It means that I will never again see the world through the veil of trust and comfort that coddled the first 50 years of my life. It leaves me feeling astonishingly naive about the world around me. It is indeed a unfathomable tragedy from all perspectives

A colleague whose opinion I value greatly said to me "Layne, the President of the most powerful country in the world has just apologized to an humanitarian aid organization.This is significant."

And while I appreciate both the opinion and perspective it's hard to reconcile this with an act of war perpetrated upon those who have so generously given themselves to the cause of alleviating the suffering of others. It is significant in that  it has called to action many who are outraged by this injustice. In that, there is some comfort.

“Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it's the only thing that ever does”

 

Margaret Mead

Thanks for reading - Layno

The White sands of Zanzibar

Where the sun just kinda falls into the sea.....

One of 6 amazing sunsets on the beach in Zanzibar

 Years ago I applied for a summer job planting trees in the BC interior. While doing so, I met the half mad HR guy named Potsey who worked part time as the leader of his own political party of 1. The cause he declared with a passion I will never forget, is to change the world by not taking ourselves so seriously. "Ahhh" I said, taking in his wild outfit hair and stare. "And why call the company Zanzibar" was my next question. "Well"  he said with great ceremony "because it's named after the best place on earth- excellent question," he exclaimed, "you have the job"!!!

I never really believed Potsey's claim about Zanzibar but when the opportunity to visit presented itself, I just had to see for myself.

The first stop after a 14 hour bus ride through the Pineapple carpeted plains of central Tanzania is Dar es Salam. Arguably one of the sexiest most exotic names for a city that unfortunately is neither of those things. It's a typical port city more industrial and mechanized than commercial and pedestrian. It also doesn't feel nor is it safe given the stories I heard and the look of the town. With each alcove and corner occupied with dubious looking characters, the trash and broken bits littering the streets, it's not easy to feel that there are people who care about what happens to an accidental tourist wandering the streets. It reminded me of Lima, Peru and where Lima has benefited from a defined downtown that is tidied and policed to ensure the safety of visitors and citizens. Dar could benefit from the same.

At the same time and as show in the accompanying picture, there is a lot of construction that seems both ambitions and superfluous. I got the sense that it was investment money driven by tax opportunity and safe haven rather that private sector rushing to fill the need. The election will take place later this month and it looks as though the CCM party who have governed since independence (1961) will continue to do so. All is well in Tanzania as long as the world to continues to provide the majority of the funding for the budget.....

Zanzibar "The greatest place on Earth"

And then a short trip on a fast ferry to the island of Zanzibar, the greatest place on earth! One can't help wonder why a busy loud and unsightly sea port occupies the left hand side of the ferry slip pulls in but if you look to the right....well.......it is indeed beautiful sight. The Indian ocean warm and clear covers the white sand while the coconut trees and Jacaranda beckon seductively like a lingerie-clad lover with a PB&J sammy on white watching a world cup soccer game. Like heaven on earth!!

This is actually Prison Island (due to the prison on it...duh) and one of many islands surrounding Zanzi.

The Island is home to these really big and old turtles. The oldest on the team was 209 years old and weighed around 200 kg. As ugly as they are lethargic, you could also say that they are ancient and graceful but I found myself only sightly curious about the big fellas. There are at least a hundred on the island and I didn't feel the need to pet or hug as many others did. An excellent door stop but likely don't make great pets....I hear they will fetch but you may have expired by the time they return. So pointless really. More interesting to me was what is under the surface of the sea!!!!! Snorkeling was next!

First.....snorkeling is fascinating and you'll be doing it for a while once you get started so put a shirt on so you don't burn your back... So obvious and of course I would never do something so stupid...Now onto the fantastic carnival of color beneath the waves. Yellows and blues...like all manner butterflies only infinitely more graceful. The fish were everywhere including puffers and yellow discuss fish that were so bright you thought they must have LED lights on them. I checked, but I couldn't see where the batteries went. The best was this massive school of fish the size of a leaf from a fig tree that were white when swimming away and then shimmering green when passing in front. It was so shockingly beautiful that I gasped, messed up my snorkel and drank a bunch of the Indian Ocean.

Stonetown is the city  on the island of Zanzibar and is where most of the 1.3 million folks live. As a UNESCO world heritage site it offers a beautiful rare glimpse into its Western European and Arabic roots through the remnants of architectural flotsam and jetsam in the narrow alley that criss-cross the city. The alleys are not wide enough for cars to travel through so it remains a pedestrian/scooter zone with shops and small homes lining the way.

The slave trade is a significant and offensive part of the history of the Island. And so I necessarily  have to take issue with Potsey and his claims about the island. While the natural beauty is undeniable, a visit to the slave trade market and a read through the descriptions of the horrors and I could not help  being overcome by thinking of my ancestors and the flimsy justification  made for this barbaric behavior.

The waterfront in Stonetown

The waterfront park with it's nightly seafood street food extravaganza and coffee shops is a perfect place to watch the locals (It's 99% Muslim) socialize dressed in amazing colored and sequined Hijabs and  Kaftans. The boys rule the dock performing death-defying flips and dives in to the water many meters below. But best is that sunset where everyone takes a moment to watch it silently and dramatically slip into the ocean.

All the above noted, there's nothing like a motorcycle to get you out and about to see what the island and get a feel for the place. I traveled the length width and every little trail to the beach I could find on the 50 kms of island. Fishing villages and deserted coves were visual feasts for me as I explored every nook and cranny. The local police took some issue with my "exploring" pulling me over 7x that day each time hoping to work out a "friendly/friendly" exchange of 100USD.  I managed to chat my way through each exchange leaving with well wishes and their suggestions for great places to visit up ahead. It's just the way it is....

The boats(there are hundreds like this) head out each day at about 4pm and anchor on the horizon. At midnight the lights come on and they fish until morning arriving at the dock with their fresh catches of all manner of seafood.

The days catch fresh and colorful....

Another little cove on what is close to the most beautiful place on earth. Sorry Potsy.....

Thanks for reading -Layno!!!!!

Adventure above 5000 meters.

Hmmmm- It looks big......and far

So Kilimanjaro is "in the books" as they say and after 6 days of traipsing around the mountain (4 up 2 down)  - I have to say that it was not what I expected. It was both intense and relaxed at the same time. With lots of time spent acclimatizing, it was then a chance to meet people from all over the world. Each with their "why story" and their expectations for the climb. I honestly thought it was going to be pretty easy but the closer we got to summit, the more I realized that it was a much tougher challenge than I had expected. The stories of failure had started to be told....

The climb starts out in lush jungle and is pretty gentle on the old body as you climb along. Tanzania, in this region is home to zillions of banana trees and other big leafy trees. In 30 degree weather you walk along with monkeys in the trees and the birds playfully chirping and hopping all around you. The porters, cooks, guides and other associated support team members do an amazing job moving everything from camp to camp. It a tough job just climbing but these hard-working souls have all the gear to carry as well. I can't thank them enough for their support and encouragement. They are superstars!!!

Andy and I at the first camp...no biggie!!

Over the next days the vegetation thins and eventually disappears altogether though replaced with astonishing vistas of the peaks and valley floor. The temperature falls slowly at first and then quite dramatically as you approach base camp. 

One day is spent just going up 700m and then coming back down to the camp. It's a long day but necessary as your body needs to adjust to the thinning air and the associated changes within. At this point you start to hear the first concerns about headaches and nausea.

 

That's me on the right pictured at Kibo base camp (4.7k meters)...and this is where things get really interesting. It's now cold; surprisingly cold and that's coming from a Canadian boy. I'm having trouble keeping warm and find myself in the down sleeping bag with all gear on to stop from shaking. It's a combination of being tired, not eating well enough and the excitement of the imminent summit attempt. 

And by now, the evidence of the real challenge has been laid bare. Many people are vomiting or just holding their heads in their hands looking defeated. No one wants to give up at this point as the peak is just ahead. There are also many stories of people easily making it but for those affected by the altitude - it's anything but fun. The huts resemble mini-pharmacies as climbers try to find the right combos of Diamox and painkillers to brighten the future.

For me, I'm better off than some but not as good as many. My stomach is turning and my insides are decidedly quite unhappy with the trip in general. A visit to the squat toilets almost finishes me but I hang on to my lunch and try to stay warm.

At dinner we get the news that of the 7 in our group, we will be splitting up to ensure greater success of summiting. The lead guide Tiger, delivers the news to a sober and disappointed group. The fact that we won't summit together comes as a shock but he reasons that the cold is intense (as low as -25) and the slower members of the group will not be able to rest along the way. He'd rather wait until 2:30am for the slower members so that the sun will be out to warm them up if they are having trouble. He reasons that they can just take their time once the sun breaks without worry of hypothermia.  Tiger's constant coaching is a big part of the journey. Without strong capable guides, it would be very challenging to make summit.

Mary, Andy and I were chosen to depart at midnight with a goal of summiting at 6am. I was glad to hear I'd been chosen as part of the lead group but still disappointed that it had worked out this way after what we had all worked through together. 

We huddled in our sleeping bags half sleeping but more thinking about the 11pm start. That time came quickly and suddenly we were up doing last minute preparation. It was intensely cold, and my tummy was not any happier. Breakfast was a solid "nope"! Equally disappointing was the dull throbbing headache that consumed my focus. This next 1.4k vertical meters was going to be tough. 

With a full moon and fresh snow we didn't need our headlamps though other teams elected to use them. Looking back toward base camp was the eerie scene of the headlights in a row moving slowly up and down. For me, this was the toughest physical challenge I had faced. My water bottles froze almost immediately as I stupidly forgot to insulate them before leaving. My throat ached and I was sweating and freezing at the same time. Each step brought with it another stomach wrenching moment as we continued along. We took a number of 2 or 3 minute breaks and when time to go was called, it seemed like an impossible task to get up and move. And I was falling asleep as I walked...there is so little oxygen that the body just wants to shut down...it's a very odd feeling.

Here's a link to a short clip describing the feeling at the time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfLeX8y21rU&feature=youtu.be

OK - so contrast that with the guides (one at the back one in the front) who had smokes, sang and danced during the breaks.....I wanted to strangle them both. :)

Mary, Andy and I summited at 5:36, 25 minutes ahead of schedule and got to see the full sunrise. Well equipped with a bottle of good Cognac, we rejoiced as mother earth graced us with a staggering display of welcoming light that I will never ever forget. The air warmed quickly and the struggle was forgotten as we bathed in the beauty and warmth of the sun and our accomplishment.

Mary enjoys the first morning light at almost 6,0000 meters (19,500 ft) moments after summitting

Andy hangs happily from the sign!

Full moon still out...I look tired but happy.

We stayed and enjoyed the feeling for the next 30 mins or so and then all too suddenly and soon it was time to go. Happy and elated we worked our way back down the face and as we continued down expected to see the rest of our group just behind us.

 I first came across the Irish Girls first(Joeleen and Darshna) who are a couple we had spent time with and really enjoyed. As I looked at Joeleen I was quite concerned by what I saw. She reached for me and hugged me hard mumbling that she would make it. I really wasn't sure but wished these 2 brave young women well (they both would summit but not easily). We came across the rest of our group much farther down the mountain. It was clear that things had not gone well. Molio, another team member continued on to the top on her own but the other 3 members of the team had to be taken down to the bottom by ambulance and taken to hospital where they remained for the next 2 days. Molio bravely struggled to the top but did not reach camp until 11 pm that night. She walked for an astonishing 21 hours to make summit and get back to base. She too was driven down  to the entry gate far to tired and sore to make the descent.

In all it was a great feeling of accomplishment and comradely but best may be the 5 star hotel afterwards in the town of Arusha (site of the International Criminal Tribunal for  Rwandan Genocide - more on this later). We stank, we were dirty, and we were bearded but accepted in to enjoy a hot shower, a decent cappuccino and a warm bed.

The Arusha Palace Hotel.... Niiiiiiice!!!!

Thanks for reading - Layno!