Ants on hillsides

Why migrate I wonder????

As I looked at this Crocodile basking lazily on the banks of the Mara river,  I couldn't help but think he's smiling. It sure looks like he or she is and likely, because he can't believe his good fortune. Dinner in the form of either wildebeest or Zebra will continue to cross his "crib" in numbers up to a million over 4 weeks.  I don't think he pauses to probe the depths of animal psychology and the subtle signals that propel these magnificent beasts back and forth across the river. It just is... and means a full tummy and time to work on his tan.

I did however -- ponder deeply on the subject as I enjoyed the peaceful sun drenched day on the magnificent Masai Mara.

Two things are so amazing that you tingle and/ or gasp at the enormity and complexity of it all.

Firstly - the sheer number of Wildebeest. Essie, my intrepid and dare I say lovely companion on the adventure, remarked that they looked like "Ants on Hillsides" as we rolled the Land Cruiser through a valley with views stretching on to forever. There are more beasties here than The Don has alternative facts.

This next part was super interesting -- the zebras you see here (about 300 in the herd) had just come from the river bank behind me. One Zebra finally and tentatively decided to cross. Moments later he was spectacularly chomped by a Crocodile while the others looked on in horror (even though their expressions didn't really change) .  " Ouch"  -- and then "fuck this" seemed to be the consensus and they all moved 100 meters down stream to where you see them in the photo above.

Once the shock of a lost brother or sister fades, one brave Zebra moves forward and after 5 minutes or so puts his or her hoofs tentatively in the Mara River. The other Zebras all hold their breath and wait glad it's not them. So why this Zebra? Punishment for hogging the grassland? Does he get his pick of the mares if he makes it over? What reward awaits this intrepid Equine? And why bother to cross at all? Seriously - there is space and grass for days on both the Tanzania side and the Kenya side. It's bizarre.

Also bizarre was when the lead Zebra ( lets call him Johnathan Livingston Zebra) decided not to cross, and again --  they all turned and made there way to yet another crossing site 100 meters down stream. What (other than the unavoidable obvious) prompted JLZ not to cross? And why did no other Zebra or Wildebeest step up and offer a second opinion? "Hey Zachary - ya know the grass on this side is spectacular this year -- how about we chill here?" "Are you kidding Zelda - the grass is always greener ..... blah blah blah"

I'm thinking that if hungry Crocodiles infested the streets of Nairobi I would consider alternative routes on my way to work as well. That part makes sense to me but again -- why migrate at all?


Below - a couple pictures of the day....

Essie, hungry as usual scans the horizon hoping to see a Mcdonalds or Burger King.  But nothin' but Wilde and other beests as far as the eye can see.

These Heartbeests  herd there was a party and grazed right over. Look at how vast it is. Yes I got lost many times.....

Perfection the form of a Grant's Gazelle. You get a further sense of the size of the Mara here. 1500 sq kms!!

I'm going to guess that we were able to see 200 elephants during the day ... just awesome!!! And again - vast!!!

Jake & Yvonne

Many thanks for the very generous donations from my friend Barry and my daughter Stevie. This money will be a big help for now and Jake's future. Thanks very much!!!

Thanks reading .... Layno!!!

What a good Mom!!

A Day with Jake and Yvonne

 

Plans and picnic lunch made we fired up the Land Cruiser at 5:45 to get an early and advantaged head start on the other animal lovers heading to the park. Actually, I slept in just a bit so the key turned at 6:30 - which is close 👴. I was also fortunate to have Essie join, a friend who shares my love of getting outside and doing stuff. As comfortable in hiking boots as she is in heels, I'm really grateful that I've met this amazing person and get to share adventures along the road. 

Once crawling along the dirt roads of the NNP and reminiscent of previous visits, I again felt a tremendous sense of privilege. The park is an amazing place. It's a place where the ubiquitous Tik Tok and Instagram fade as real life takes hold of you and captures your attention. Animals go about their business as they have since time immemorial.  I am really grateful for the opportunities life has provided me. This is indeed a treat!
 

My thanks again to the many people that have and continue to support Jake and Yvonne as they make their way through difficult circumstances.  Our weekly assistance (along with help from her brother Walter working as a barista) has made it possible for them to move from a one room dirt floor abode to a 2 bedroom flat they share with Walter and the other 2 brothers.





Jake is a wonderful joyful lad and as he approaches his 3rd birthday this December, I have to say that Yvonne has done an amazing job with raising him. She is patient, loving and protective of his heart and spirit. Just as my mother was to me. The day reminded me of why I took an interest in helping these two people while all the while recognizing that under different times and circumstances, no assistance would be necessary.

As always - if you would like to part with a couple dollars you can do so through: 

e-interact laynemahon@live.com or PayPal laynegmahon@gmail.com

I would like to assist Jake with school fees in the future and if anyone would like to donate to that specifically,  please be my guest 😆

Jake watches intently as a couple baboons groom one another.

The day was particularly  rewarding as we got to see almost everything the park has to offer. There were 2 leopards spotted, but we were unable to get a glimpse. But!! many Lions and Rhino's and Giraffes and Jackals -- each delighting young Jake as he made efforts to escape through the window and join.

As we watched an Ostrich I was reminded of one of my Father's favorite jokes. It goes like this;

An Ostrich is invited to a cocktail party and as he arrives he fumbles with the door making a lot of noise and scaring all the other Ostriches at the party. They immediately stick their collective heads in the sand and as he enter he looks around and says --" hey -- where did everybody go?" 

Miss ya Dad!! Below are a few pictures on the day that you may enjoy. I certainly enjoyed taking them.

Can I get a drink bartender and hey where did everyone go?

A Zebrette watches us curiously. Nothing to say here other than Awwwwwwww

A Lioness (one of the 6 chillin') looks at some gazelles in the distance considering a lunchtime snackaroo.

A big-assed Rhino does what Rhino's usually do - eat grass and lots of it.

A Jackal looks around more even suspiciously than Justin Trudeau at a press conference -- if that's possible.

A Buffalo wishes he'd taken off a few pounds and did a bit of jogging prior to the last attack.

A great shot of Essie enjoying the breeze and view.

Thanks for reading ....Layno - ready for anything!!!

Mpango wa Kando

Cruising to Paradise

Mpango wa Kando is a Swahili expression that refers to someone who is your significant other. And by other - I mean other than your wife! It translates roughly to "side chick" and is generally used in a playful manner. And so I now have to confess that I have a Mpango wa Kando; my side chick is the venerable and sexy BMW R1150GS pictured above.

What better place to take her than the South East coast of Kenya for a bit of R&R and exploration was my thinking -- and so Indian Ocean Africa Pearl resort Diani -- here we come!!



 





It was a perfect work play week particularly as I was able to spend some time with my dear friend Chris who has settled here (Bastard). Tanned fit and remarkably healthy looking we idled over long breakfasts and single malt Scotch catching up after almost 2 years of being in separate places in the world.

Chris and I have been in Diani in the past hanging out and enjoying what can only be described as paradise. There is almost always a breeze, warm and gentle on your cheek and a sweet smell that encourages and invites you to breath deeply. The sound of the ocean rolling onto the brilliant white sand is audible from wherever you park yourself in the village; a comforting sound through the day and night.

The Indian ocean sparkles always luring and giving some rational for Greek Mythological Sirens who lured sailors to ruin on the sea. I get that. A noonday or midnight swim are equally enjoyable in this tropical Elysium.






On the morning of my return to Nairobi, I rose early and packed my gear out to the big BMW. The sun was an hour from rising though the air was warm and a bit sticky as I loaded and secured the gear. It was a bit tricky as I'd broken one of the luggage support mounts on the way in. Road was a bit rough 😏 ... (couldn't be the rider)

I pushed the starter button and the big 1150 rumbled to life. As habit, I checked turn signals, brake light, kicked the tires and a quick once over to see that nothing was falling off. Satisfied, I climbed aboard and pushed her off the stand.

I traveled the coast road as the sun rose, my visor up enjoying the wind on my face, the smell of the ocean and the sun rising over the ocean. The coconut trees seemed to be waving goodby as I at last turned inland to face the 2 hours of rough road ahead of me.

I have to admit that despite my love of 2-wheeled motos, I'm not a great rider and particularly poor off the tarmac. I do however, enjoy that sense of solitude and self reliance that comes with getting off the beaten track. This dirt road is no joke. Worried about getting lost without a GPS signal - worried about a breakdown - worried about a bad fall - worried about an attack - worried about running out of fuel ... my mind was busy thinking through the what if's. The road challenged me thoroughly. Standing up on the foot pegs I tried to pick paths that avoided the dreaded sand traps and worst of the rocks and ditches. Finally and admittedly exhausted, I arrived in Samburu town and turned right onto the tarmac heading to Nairobi.

After riding on the dirt for 2 hours at 30kms an hour or less, I went through the gears, the motor sung it's beautiful tune finally able to rev as I hit the 130 mark and settled into the groove. A group of Zebra's watched me from the side of the road looking sad and forlorn as I passed. Why the long faces I thought😏

A word on Jake and Yvonne

 

 

Jake and Yvonne are doing well. I haven't seen either of them for a few months as it's a bit risky with Covid19 and all -- but looking forward to spending some time with them when this Covid19 thing is done and dusted. Sincere thank you's to Muriel for her very generous donation that I'm sure Yvonne and Jake will really appreciate.

Jake definitely doesn't look like a baby anymore turning 3 this December. :) What a handsome young fella!!

Last but hardly least - my Gran!

This week was also a time to say goodby to my Gran formally. She passed some time ago but the spreading of her ashes was this week as family gathered to share stories and memories. I was a bit far away to attend the auspicious occasion but took time to remember the woman who helped raise me.


Never an unkind word and always ready to make time for me is how I remember her best. A proud woman, she delighted in books and family history, she taught me many things about life. I spent many a day at her home on Salt spring island as a boy eating her famous PB&J sammies and shoveling down great heapings of the Mac and cheese that is to this day unequaled.

Just shy of 100 years on the planet - I share this picture of her from the last time we met just over a year ago. Rest in peace dear Gran - and thank you for your endearing kindness to me.











Thanks for reading ....Layno!!!

PS.. Lucky and Sonny say hello as well

Love you Lucky ...Sonny - get the fuck off me!