Ramadan

Ramadan

I've learned a little about Ramadan from one of my colleagues at work and have to admit that I'm fascinated by the dedication and intricacy of the faith. I'm sure I couldn't maintain my general sunny disposition if like my workmate I had to abstain from eating between 5am and 6:30pm each day. Missing a meal and missing  a limb are similar happenstance in my world.

Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic calendar,and is observed by Muslims worldwide as a month of fasting to commemorate the first revelation of the Quran to Muhammad according to Islamic belief. This annual observance is regarded as one of the Five Pillars of Islam.The month lasts 29–30 days based on the visual sightings of the crescent moon, according to numerous biographical accounts compiled in the Hadiths (reports). As many Africans are Muslim, Ramadan is a significant part of African life during this important time.

On a recent hike I'll talk about below - I shared a laugh with a friend about the possibility of unintentional accidental cultural insensitivity. She was busy with a project and then rushed into a meeting where she was front and center..... quickly gulping down a sandwich she explained that if everyone could just wait a sec while she ate her sammy, they could get started but she was absolutely starved having not had breakfast or lunch.......... She describes the looks from the team as surprise shock and dismay as it dawned on her that over half the room hadn't eaten since 5 so were likely were less than sympathetic!

Lake Elementetia and the Volcano

In addition to the beautiful views of Lake Elementetia, you can make out our destination in the distance; the (hopefully) inactive volcano yonder. And while this was our destination, a walk around part of the lake was a fantastic way to spend the early hours of the morning. Home to White Pelicans and over 400 other species of birds, it's a rich tapestry of avian delights! Noisy colorful and the movement of the birds a constant reminder of life in such a still and serene environment. This region , part of the Rift Valley, lies North about 150 Kms from Nairobi. It's just outside the town of Naivasha, a common getaway from the big city.

The world falls dramatically away on both sides of you as you walk the rim of the crater. There are cows and goat down below though difficult to see from this height and my crappy camera. Butterflys occupy the ridge for some unknown  reason though they likely though the same about us trooping along disturbing the peace.
The walking is easy and the conversation equally so with my fellow (mostly Ex-pat) hikers. I spent a fair amount of time with Youssef pictured below with a cool grasshopper -like thingy. We saw many more of these things and almost always they were mating. Well when you look this good.......

Youseff my fascinated and facilitating Spanish hiking partner

And suddenly in the middle of no-where... a football game. Really, the middle of nowhere - there was nothing around for at least a kilometer other than this flat spot apparently ideal for playing. A number of boys were playing  so naturally we all joined in to play along. We got our asses kicked  but lots of laughs in the process. These guys could "bend it like Beckam" and maybe even better.

Most interesting to me is the ball which I learned later from my workmate Maina is packed plastic covered with cloth and then a net-like stitch of rope to hold it together. The "making of the game ball" is a right-of-passage for African boys and when a good one - a matter of real pride. For me and my posse it was the perfect joint... ha! It's all about getting it just right.

Regular soccer balls are no good as they loose air and are then useless....so this is how its done.

I love this shot - the young man on the left is totally into it where the young man on the right couldn't care less. Ahhh perspective.

Thanks for reading my Blog!

Maasai Lodge - where the men are men and I wasn't

Maasai: Brave men and women indeed

Looking across the National Park

This past week I was at Maasai Lodge located about a half hour drive outside Nairobi and smack dab in the middle of the National Park. It's a popular place for conventions and training sessions and in fact the reason for my visit. MSF had brought together a number of members of our Lab team for advanced procedural training. I was there to meet some of the people and learn more about this group and their work with our organization.

I was early. In fact I was about 2 hours early so contented myself for the first half hour with looking around the gated facility. It's the size of a football field with grouping of tucols, restaurants and National Park viewing spots. Above is a spot above the river where Crocs, hippos and other fricken cool animals are hanging out. In the distance you can make out the odd Giraffe and Buffalo....maybe not. You'll have to take my word for it.

Meet the Rats on Steroids....nice rat, nice rat. You can see I pissed him off. What are you looking at he says.

There's these "little" guys all over the place. Some kind of rat on enough growth hormones to impress Lance Armstrong. The size of a large cat, they have absolutely no fear of people and in fact I thought this guy was getting ready to attack when I took his picture.

With some time to spend - I went to the gate of Maasai Lodge where the Maasai guards are diligently ensuring the guest's safety. "Can I go out" I asked. "No" was the reply. "Why" I asked. "Not safe for you....." How about if you come with me I asked expecting another solemn no. "Ok" said the guard to my surprise.

As we walked along I marveled at the sweet smell, the warm sun on my face and the beauty of this wild place. Grass, sand and small bushes interspersed with bright flowers going into the distance seemingly forever.   So why is it dangerous I asked not seeing any immediate threats. Lions he said stoically...Oh the odd one passes through I inquired?  NO! - many many lions here. Hmmmm

"And if we see a lion - what do we do" ?  I asked. You remember that you are part of the land and walk past with confidence.  I felt like peeing myself.

Look at that he says suddenly. A hyena.... Where I asked excitedly looking into the distance. Right there he pointed with annoyance to the hyena 20 ft away. Surprised at the size and the closeness I said the first really smart thing came to my mind. Is it a real one. Forever I will remember him turning and looking at me like I was the biggest idiot in the world. Ahhhhh - I guess it is.....

Me with Maasai to the right and other MSF team members about.

Later I joined the team for dinner chat and performance of Maasi dancing and song. It was very complicated in both the movement and layered a capella sounds. The traditional drink tasted like honey sweetened buttermilk to me. Refreshing and both sour and sweet at the same time. Delicious.

During dinner somehow a buffalo and giraffe wandered into the bar-b-que area located a distance from the main lodge. The Maasai in attendance quickly moved into position to protect us from the Buffalo which I learned is the most dangerous of all the "Big 5". He just continued to eat grass though no more than 20 ft from where we had were sitting and drinking. He continued to eat and so did we. Just proves what we all know. Everyone loves a good Bar-b-que.

Goats stacked 3 or 4 layers deep

It may be a bit hard to see but this lorry has 3 or 4 layers of canvass "shelves"packed with goats. And yes they are probably going to that big grazing area in the sky but why don't they don't jump off I wondered. It appeared to really be enjoying the ride. Several were obviously smiling at one another as if to say. "Great tour - I really must make sure to update trip advisor". Great value.....


Thanks for reading. L

Can 20 boys play for 20 years?

The Kibera Slum

Photograph of The Kibera Slum - thought to be the largest in Africa

 

Kibera is one of a number of slums ( 3 I believe) located within Nairobi. And if you look above at the outline of Kibera, you can see that just above is a golf course that has been built. From my visit to the slum and having spent a few hours on a golf course, there is a stark contrast to this and the realities of life in Kibera. Life is hard within the boundaries in one of the world's largest slums located less than 5 kms from the city center.

With somewhere between 250,000 and a million souls occupying an area of roughly 2 sq kms, the realities of this world are very different to the one most are accustomed. Originally a gift to Sudanese riflemen, it has existed for more than a century and continues to be a very challenging political and economic "hot potato" for the government of the day. Poverty and votes more inextricably intertwined than Tegan & Sarah.

I spoke at length with a man who grew up in Kibera. "you look at the shoes" he told me." Huh"? I said. " Well if the shoes have grips on the bottom like a hiking shoe you know they are drug dealers or thugs and you need to beware." He went on to tell me about the time he was shot and watched others shot as well. The outcome of petty crimes of desperation going very badly. It's a place, he told me, where 20 boys can never play for 20 years. At least one will not make it.

 

 

Despite the challenges of the area, Local government and committed NGO's are making a real difference. Recently public flush toilets, electricity and water have come to Kibera as well as paved roads making life a little easier for the people here. Also greatly improved is access to health care. Home to a recent Cholera outbreak, a tragic history of endemic HIV and TB  as well has a host of other persistent health care challenges, MSF operates a number of well attended clinics. In addition a hospital has just recently been built by MSF.

 

 

 

 

The facility has just recently opened and operates with a combination of MSF and Kenyan government supported employees. With roughly 200 persons arriving daily, the pace is hectic and the ques are always long but all who come are seen thanks to the tremendous commitment from this team. A record 18 babies were born here one day last week. With only 3 beds available that could not have been an easy day. Included within the hospital grounds is a brightly colored children's playground that attracts kids from all through the slum - regardless of whether or not they are sick :)  

 

THE NATIONAL ARCHIVES



Anyone seen Sara? Nothing is awesome

I also visited the National Archives  of Kenya and really enjoyed shuffling around looking at artifacts mostly added since independence  rightfully claimed from the Colonial power when the UK ceded sovereignty to Jomo Kenyatta on December 12 1963. I attended the exhibit on the day of the annual independence celebration (Madaraka) which occurs on June 1st each year and is a National holiday. As I walked around and explored the gallery I was all alone as staff and visitors alike were in the lobby gathered around the television listening to President Uhuru Kenyatta. He spoke about the successes that have come to Kenya in such a brief period of time. He  also talked about the challenges of insecurity and corruption and his plans to address this 2- headed monster. From what I can see it has not been an easy journey but Kenyans are tenacious and become united by adversity. Getting 42 tribes to think alike must be like herding kittycats on amphetamines during a fireworks demonstration.... but they are doing it.





Jomo Kenyatta's chair  - if that chair could talk it would say: Queen Elizabeth and her Mom seemed so nice at first but turned out to be real bossy pants!



 

Great Sculpture: MaKonde Tree of Life from Tanzania.... Love it.