A weekend in Paris

Only the French.....

 

My work finished in Brussels and I thought....why not spend the weekend in Paris? With that in mind I rented a room in a rooftop apartment through Air BNB (even though it was a little girls bunk bed, a bargain at 25 Euro per night... besides...I love vampire diaries posters) and caught a train to the famous Paris Gare du Nord. It's just a bit more than an hour and a very comfortable relaxing ride.

Arriving into Paris, I caught the 54 to Boulevard de Clichy and after settling in my room (and admiring the posters which to my absolute delight included a mostly naked Drake) - went straight to a bar to catch the opening Euro 2016 game of France vs. Romania - a match settled late in favor or the French and celebrated with significant boisterous enthusiasm. The fans were out in full force with the streets full of enthusiastic and from what I could see very well-behaved fans.



I started the day by taking the Metro to Champs Elysees and went searching for a perfect coffee and croissant. In the picture up above - is the object of my desire!! The croissant on the outside seems like it's coated in a thin sheet of glass...and the inside, rubbery and delicious. As my good friend Gary Hochban always has said in an exaggerated and comical accent "only the Fraaaanch make da true crooooiiiiisant". It is so....

The Arc de Triomphe is no less impressive than ever and I spent the balance of the afternoon walking the streets enjoying a pleasant time resplendent with Parisian flotsam and Jetsam. I really do love this city and was not surprised by the rekindled affair I have had with the city since I first visited over 30 years ago. Of note is the "price" of this mistress....with most items costing quite a bit more than expected. A beer in the pub can be $10 or $5 if you get off the beaten track and look french :) However!.... with a little creativity - you can always find a "low cost effective" alternative.....

So lunch on this day was:
a half bottle of excellent wine  - 2 Euro
a wheel of excellent Brie -  2 Euro
a warm fresh Baguette - 1 Euro 
a small delicious chocolate bar - 1Euro


Total cost of the food for lunch 6 Euro, and the view and ambiance from the bench smack in the middle of the Champs Elysees .... priceless. (the joy of drinking wine from a bottle shielded by a brown paper bag.....also priceless :)

I headed over to the Tour de Eiffel which you can spot sticking out above this sweet Piaggio gracing a Parisian side-street. Walking the streets all day is tough work, particularly after a couple beer stops and that half bottle of wine I had for lunch....but I pushed through exploring the many "little sights & sites" that surprise and delight from usual streets and places along the way.
Feeling very French - I tried to conduct myself only in French...ha! For the record I start lessons this Monday and no doubt the French folk I spoke with would have preferred that I started much earlier. :)





I've always been a fan of live performance (who isn't)  and planned in advance to see  the world famous Moulin Rouge.  A fixture in Paris since 1889, and while the location may have changed (it burned down in 1915) and the acts tailored to meet a more modern taste,  the 60ish female dancers still appear topless and absolutely resplendent in their fluffy colorful costumes. Like some weird exotic birds strangely misplaced and choreographed to unimaginable routines that are both erotic and delightful.

Recently adapted to the silver screen by Christina Aguilera and others, the real thing is still a far better experience in my view. And remember - the show that brought us the CanCan and similarly "naughty" fun entertainment holds a particularly important place in the history of show business. The show is worth every penny from a modern entertainment perspective and a historical reminder of an institution that brought considerable joy to those enduring the madness of Europe during the world wars.

The world famous Moulin Rouge

The stage is actually the whole width of the curtain...this is the warm up act...

On Sunday morning I attended mass at Notre Dame. One of the world's finest churches, the combination of stained glass, architecture and pipe organ make it a special day in church. I'm not so enamored with modern day organized religion but appreciate the community it creates, the goodwill it promotes and the sense of history it evokes. I'm sure over 1000 people were in the church as the mighty Pipe organ began filling the massive space with it's dramatic mix of rich off-key tones unique to this fabulous instrument. And just when you think it can't be any better -  a sea of voices rise up as the pipe organ subsides just enough for the 100 member choir to be heard. Truly spectacular in this day and certainly more so 100 years ago... and more. Imagine the poor huddled masses in 1345 as they first glimpsed the massive structure and witnessed the stained glass lit by the morning sun. It must have been truly mesmerizing.....

As I made my way to the church I saw this red-touqued man sitting quietly by the fountain. It was a site that touched my soul somehow  - so peaceful and at the same time thought-provoking...what is his story?. It was my best shot I think...capturing the moment so perfectly.

In the afternoon - the Musee d'orsay. While the Louvre gets all the attention - this only slightly less exciting institution deserves a  similar billing. With heeps or Monet, Van Gough and the like - it's a special place. My Mom introduced me to the concept of impressionist work when she took art history classes. At the time I suspect she didn't realize the "impression" (hehe) she was making on my young mind but it stayed with me and caused a curiosity about such things. I spent 6 hours at the museum enjoying many famous works of art and the atmosphere as people walk deep in thought from one view to the next. I worry, a bit,about the generations to come and the seeming need to have their minds stimulated and spoon fed with  a constant diet of images and info. Did I leave or create the same curiosity for my children or has the business of parenting been replaced by Facebook and Insta-gram. I don't mean this in a whiny self- loathing manner :) - rather just a thought about how the world is changing in a major way and my hope is that the identified works of art of our past can maintain top billing with the works of art of today and the future.

In the spirit of masterpieces and concentration - it was cool to see the painting on the right and then the young man sketching the same on the left. Some of my favorites would be the one below...

Or a classic like Van Gough's Starry night...painted as he went mad....slowly.....

But my favoriterest was the painting below by Ferdinand Hodler painted in 1910. The effort completely disproportionate to the task. The tree almost falling but a powerful blow coming symbolizing for me the frustration of the painter and my own frustration and impatience I experience from time to time. Ahhhhh to be perfect :)

In my last blog I spoke of a friend that had died accidentally while mishandling a firearm. The evidence available now points to her being murdered. I won't comment further on this but in the case of determined guilt - justice must surely be served. I missed the funeral but that doesn't mean that Grace was not in my thoughts and continues to be. I added the picture below of Grace from a recent trek. For me it captures her playful, saucy spirit that made her unique brand of humor as engaging as it was entertaining. A true inspiration - she will indeed be missed.

Thanks for reading -Layno

Democracy Belgium style!

Yay or nay!!!! What say you.....

As I walked to the Belgian Médecins Sans Frontières offices on a misty cool spring morning, I looked carefully back at King Leopoldo II where he sits patiently aboard his trusted steed. He ruled Belgium for exactly 44 years (1865 - 1909) and was the guy who colonized the Congo. Leo personally claimed the land and was authorized to do so at the Berlin conference (1884). His private venture was conducted under the auspices of improving the lives of the local people in what is now know as the Democratic republic of Congo. And arguably - if not Leo....then whom? The Dutch, the Brits?? Someone....

Up to 15 million Congolese died during the time that Leo stripped the country of resources which were primarily Ivory and then later rubber. With his vast fortune, he built many public Belgian buildings which were then donated to Belgium shortly before his death. Were the lives of 15 million Congolese better off as a result of Leo's benevolence? I don't think so...and the legacy he left - while lovely in Belgium  - still impacts the day to day lives of the peoples of East Africa. What would he have thought of the work MSF is now doing to help clean-up the mess left behind? Hmmmm - ironic.....



I was fortunate enough to be invited to the MSF General Assembly where many of the guiding principles are defined, revisited or abandoned as the members debate the state of affairs within the organization. It's a time for retired, active, associated and otherwise committed humanitarians, to have their say about the direction of the organization. And by all accounts it is going very well indeed. The organization's reputation is very good, the direction is well supported by donors, and I can personally and emphatically say that the dollars so generously provided are being well spent. The organization is responsive, engaged, and effective.

That said - the debate is lively and while respectful, honest and bold. For me - it's a significant departure from the private sector where concerns are wrapped and delivered in the most inoffensive packages or more often - not said at all. The fear of losing your job is not part of the MSF culture or the organizations structure. It's about the beneficiary and not shareholder wealth. It's about doing good work and not just appearing to do so. Fortunately King Leo2 was not among the debaters on the day :)

The Assembly started with a 10 minute presentation from a surgeon who was in the Kunduz hospital when it was bombed. His story is as gripping and emotionally compelling as anything I have ever heard in my life. I believe, as do many others, that this tragedy is an opportunity to bring focus to unsanctioned actions of aggression that are reported with sanitized facts and figures but ignore the messy realities on the ground. It's an opportunity for society to hold states accountable for their illegals actions, their lies and their future actions. "Sorry - It was a mistake" ..... is hardly good enough.

I just got word that a friend in Kenya died yesterday while mis-handling a friend's handgun. As one often says at a time like this - I saw her just last week and she was fine.... such a stupid thing to think. Grace was funny, friendly and fearless. As tender and delicate as a rose petal but tough and fearless when standing for what she believed in. I had planned to write a bit more today but will stop here for now. RIP Grace  - my thoughts are with you friends and family

Thank for reading  - Layno