The Kili countdown

Mount Kilimanjaro in 34 days - Will  I be ready????

"You can see it from here - why would you bother climbing to the top?" said the dumb Giraffe. Ah, because I can - said the dumb human"..........

I'm jogging and swimming a bit more trying to improve my endurance as I fret and prepare for an attempt on Kili (as it's called by those in the know).  Chris & Shiku, my climbing partners, are keenly ready and the plans have been made. Now just to climb. 

It'll take just 7 days to climb the 70+ kms to the top of the 19,000+ ft 4th highest mountain in the world. As keen reminder of home - temps can fall to as low as -17 near the summit. And while it's not the adventure and challenge it was for German climbers Edward Oehler and Fritz Klute in 1912 when it was first submitted, only 6 out of 10 make the summit on average. I have been to 12,000 ft in the Andes previously, but this is significantly higher. I'm definitely nervous. Also making it easier is the guides who will carry most of your gear and rustle up grits 3x daily. While I would rather a "purer" challenge, these are the rules as you must hire folks if you want to make the challenge. This week I'll be picking up a few more items I need including a Canadian flag to wave with great enthusiasm when I reach the summit!!! Wish me /us luck!

Afterwards a couple days in Dar es Salaam (Tanzania) and over to Zanzibar to make the most of the beach for a few days. That too should be interesting. 

Speaking of interesting

Here are a couple things in Africa I find interesting:

1) The handshake is a 3 step intricate little hand dance that I have completely failed to master so far. In part, I believe this is because North Americans get a little weird about touching for any length of time and Africans are just the opposite. While Westerners have a firm single position quick shake, the African greeting is much more sophisticated and dare I say intimate! It involves a more gentle grasp that starts with a "normal" handshake position then slides to the grasp show here and then back to the original position. Its done slowly, while talking, and often the last position is held for a couple seconds. People who know one another well or are being very welcoming may continue to hold your hand for some time. At first it was very strange for me but now - and though still a bit awkward in a "white men can't jump" sort of way" I find the practice very warm and welcoming.

2) All plug-ins have switches right at the plate so that lamps etc don't have to have a switch itself. This means that the lamps etc are less expensive and there's one less thing to go wrong. It also means that you can shut off a bunch of things with 1 switch if its connected to a power bar for example. I think of this because last night the light switch blew to smithereens for no apparent reason. I guess it has its drawbacks as well.

3) Also - in most homes including the more affluent, there is no piped pressurized water. You buy water from a truck that fills a container in your yard. (this is a picture of mine) A small pump then takes the water to a holding tank on the roof where gravity does the rest of the work. Simple and efficient as the tanks - usually black - also warm up in the sun. The need for water heaters is significantly less as a result. In my home (which is very plush by African standards) only the shower water and bathroom tap water is heated. The hot water heater is turned on at night and then off in the morning. Also - the water is not chlorinated or treated in any way other than a simple filter so drinking it is tummy trouble for sure.

4) I am at heart and have been for most of my life, a big fan of the motorcycle. Here - they are very low powered and more utility than they are entertaining. Know affectionately in Africa as the Boda boda, it is a transportation necessity for getting around busy city arteries even more clogged than Rob Ford's. A couple funny things I have seen are:

• Propane cylinders carried on the back - in fact I think this is the only way they are delivered.
• 6 people on a single machine all dressed up for a special event, (3 were kids)
• A couch being delivered.. not a loveseat but a full sized couch with driver sitting on the tank.
• Rebar for a construction site - WorkSafe would surely go for the death penalty on this....

But best of all was last week with 3 guys on a small motorcycle with 3 full sized goats. All 6 looking very pleased with the way all was working out. Hilarious! I couldn't help thinking bout my own motorcycle with a bunch of goats slung over the seat. How many goats can you get on a Ducati? - none - goats think they're too dangerous!

Thanks for reading!! Layno

Hair & Economics in Juba

Pretty awesome for 20 SSP! (About 2 bucks)

Just a trim if you don't mind please.....just a little off the top!

Holy Whoa!!!! stop now - STOP NOW!!!!! Perfect!

I started my Saturday morning with a hair appointment with Farouk. After 20 minutes the masterpiece was complete. I was a little unprepared for the wash afterwards which entails rubbing generous amounts of foamy soap into the little amount of hair that remained and then removing the foam residue with toilet paper. Not quite finished - an alcohol rub that was as brisk and refreshing as it was effective at ensuring nothing "untoward" was left in this potential nest. Voila! Even more fun than the haircut was the conversation with the men sitting in on my hair cutting experience. A few good laughs about the differences in culture and life generally. South Sundanese are happy and easy to engage in conversation. Always a smile at the ready - they are hospitable and generous with their time. 

My hair cutting experience reminds me of the 4 year old boy who lives next door to me in Nairobi. A bit of a "Dennis the Menace type" I found him hanging off my front gate one morning while I played guitar in the sun. I'd taken off my shirt enjoying the feel of the sun and relaxing with a little music when I noticed him "hanging around". Thinking the young boy was impressed with my awe-inspiring guitar talents, I invited him into the yard. 

When I finished the song I asked if he liked the guitar. "not really" he said frankly.... "I just can't believe how hairy you are mister". I smiled and said defensively - well I'm certainly not THAT hairy... "You sure are" he says  "it's every where even on your hands. Is it on your back too?" he asked  - I assured him that it definitely was not. He ran around behind me and exclaimed with confidence - "it sure is - it's all over back here too" Time to go little man - your Mom's calling....

The economics of money in a war zone....

I won't tread too deeply into the watery abyss of Economics (despite a degree in the subject) because I really don't understand it. I pretend that I do - but don't. 

But here's what I want to share and think I understand - if you exchange your money at the bank - for $100 dollars you get ~340 South Sudanese pounds.

If you quasi-legally exchange that $100 on the street (side on the road/cafe etc) - for $100 you get 1400 SSP.

So the fuel station owner (paid in SSP by locals as above) is afraid to sell because the value of the SSP is falling so quickly. Accordingly - he can't risk buying the bulk fuel as the wholesaler demands USD and the value of that vis a vis the SSP becomes more expensive daily. He may as well not buy fuel and just wait it out. Voila - a fuel shortage......Super interesting hey!!!!


So if we take this a little farther - what about the customer exchanging his money (USD) at the official rate and then purchasing the item in SSP. Let's say its a $50 Coffeemaker.... The SSP cost was 170 SSP but now has risen to 700 SSP... the customer (using the official Exchange rate) now pays a whopping $205 USD for the coffee maker that is still valued at $50 USD....so where did the $155 go to.....?

Thanks for reading my Blog/ Kuwashukura kwa kusoma blog yangu

 

 

Layne.......

Lunch on the Nile

Washing Clothes, Bodies and Motorcycles

A sunny Saturday on The Nile (The white Nile to be specific) In Juba, South Sudan

I'm in Juba, South Sudan this week where it's winter - but still reaches for 40 each day. Mercifully it rarely gets there unlike summer when it can get close to 50! I've always wanted to see The Nile River and it more than lived up to my expectations - slow moving but powerful, one of nature's truly immutable forces.

Joining me for lunch on this fine day is Liz whom I'd met in Lockichoggio some weeks before. Although carrying significant responsibilities and having to confront deeply disturbing social injustices, misery and heartache daily - she is remarkably cool calm and effective. Enviably competent, she is also a terrific conversationalist and the perfect companion for a mid day lunch. And while on the topic of lunch, a Nile beer (naturally) to accompany a beef Fajita followed by a chocolate cake and some kind of toe curling Arabic caffeinated beverage vastly superior to the richest $9 Starbucks offering. Nuuumy!!

JUBA:  Africa's newest and most troubled country

Negotiating the streets of South Sudan's capital city: Juba

The country of 9 million is almost brand new and in some ways is like any 4 year old struggling to understand how to "fits in" as it emerges onto the world stage. The war started in Juba but has moved to the north where the fighting primarily between 2 groups is heaviest. 7 groups are involved in the conflict which also includes assistance/interference from neighbors and friends.  A cynic might say that the rich oil reserves are potentially rewards for alliances that assist one side or the other toward military domination. 

Observers point out that much of the country's wealth (mostly in oil but other mineral reserves as well) has been "pre-sold" at deeply discounted rates to support the current military activities. Those same observers would argue that even with a negotiated solution today (highly improbable given both side believe military dominance is the solution) unfortunately it will be a very long time before basic needs of the population can be addressed. 

From my perspective, the first casualty in a civil war is the "invisible" infrastructure taken for granted in the peaceful, modern, developed world. Garbage collection, road maintenance, community policing, etc.... the list goes on. Pictured above is a street where Land Cruisers are required to move about. While there is pavement - it is not nearly as prevalent as the dirt lanes that snake around and criss-cross the city. There is much work to be done in South Sudan now and in the future and no doubt NGOs  will continue to provide support for this emerging country.

Thanks for reading! Asante Sana!