East Coast Mombassa and South to Diani..

Nothing to beach about here...

As you pass under the iconic tusks heralding your arrival into the great Port City of Mombassa the sights are not in the least bit pretty. It's a dirty port town more functional than aesthetic; it looks and feels worn, tired and defeated. It's a loud and dirty city where Tuk tuks and trucks compete to be the winner in an all out contest to completely assault your senses. The great gusts of dirty smoke, loud engines noises and constant competition for space on this little island is overwhelming. And all of this in close to 40 degree heat! There is a  new rail line being built to Mombassa and then on to Uganda that will eventually ease some of the congestion and allow for the repair of the ubiquitous bone shattering potholes that grace nearly every street. There is also a proposal to twin the port in Lamu to the north but as long as Al Shabab continues to be active in that region it's unlikely that will happen. For now though, it's 24/7 activity as the port feeds East Africa's growing appetite for more and more stuff.

Hmmmm.....no need to get out marshmallows just yet...

 There was a tense moment as we drove to Mombassa. Caught in a traffic jam we ended up near a truck burning on the side of the road. The driver had managed to uncouple the trailer full of diesel fuel but only managed to move the truck a couple meters from the trailer before fleeing for safety. We were torn between abandoning the car and running for safety or hoping traffic would move again.

Very natural looking....

Thankfully traffic cooperated and we were glad to see the industrial campfire in our rear view mirror as we continued on to Mombasa. I read of a similar situation recently where the tanker finally exploded killing many of those standing by with Jerry cans hoping for free fuel. I don't know how this ended but did note the throngs of onlookers hoping for freebies.

For me, It's another reminder of the difference between developed countries and those developing. There will assuredly not be transportation safety officials speeding to the scene to ensure the situation will be handled safely and contained. The tractor will burn until it can burn no longer ...the trailer may or may not blow to smithereens. The burnt out remains will then be picked apart but villagers selling the scrap metal bit by bit. Until it's gone. The circle of life.....


But the city has not always been like this. It was established around 900 AD and boasts an impressive and fascinating history as a major gateway linking Europe and the East. The Portuguese boat driving guy, Vasco de Gamma showed up in 1498 and built Fort Jesus. Here my friend Dave, a fine fine music teacher from Denmark, (and guitar player so can't be too bad a guy) poses awkwardly at the entrance. There were better pictures of Dave...but this is my choice because it's my blog and he foolishly gave me permission to publish whatever I liked. I can make the most fun of him with this shot. He's a really good guy and it was a pleasure to spend time with him..

The Architecture is very strange and intriguing. The fort is the outline of a body accessorized with various Arabic bits.

Once inside the fort it's easy to imagine the life and times of the times. The fort was built to withstand cannon fire and clearly has done so. It's perched high on the ocean-side majestically commanding a view of any approach to this important outpost of the Portuguese play for kings of trade. Cannons liter the space looking archaically menacing and effective at persuading would-be invaders to try invading a castle down the street.

I love old doors...and posing dramatically:) Oh the horror!!!!

Florence, our trip leader and quite possibly the most unflappable and calm person I have ever met, doesn't find the cannons so menacing but more a convenient resting place on a day hot enough to melt rocks! So calm is Florence that I checked for a pulse on a number of occasions. She was fine....
The fort is undergoing significant erosion to the foundation on the the south side. My hope is that the authorities will ensure that this important UNESCO world heritage site and treasure of humanity received the funding required to preserve it for the future. In my view history needs to be seen as well as read. If visiting the coast of East Africa, I would strongly recommend this important historic link to the past.

In an only slightly less awkward pose Dave celebrates our arrival at 40 Thieves beach bar in Diani. Elle sticks out her tongue in some kind of Miley Cyrusesque  tribute and expression of sheer joy.  I stuck out my tongue out as well not knowing why exactly but really enjoying what is possibly the coolest bar I have ever been to. White sand floors and the beach lit up with great music filling the air. Lots of people lounging, dancing, walking the beach or swimming in the 30 degree ocean. Women in dresses and men in pants swimming and enjoying playing in the water in various stages of dress and undress. We stayed til 3:30 that night and 4:30 the next. Such a fun place!!!!

The beach is truly spectacular!! We spent time lazing at an expensive resort we pretended to be from after walking from our "more budget conscious" accommodations that while nice, were no match for the oceanside  resorts. The beer was cold, the view astonishing and the warm breeze off the Indian ocean smells sweetly as it nourishes the soul. In for a dip...out for a cold beer..repeat!

Our final day was spent snorkeling the coral reef around Wasini island. The island is south of Diani and about 3 kms off from the mainland. It is for the most part, the island group of Zanzibar, Pemba, others and then Wasini to the north. Known for its rich and plentiful marine life, this marine park  is truly a snorkelers dream come true. A new hobby for me and one I would like to much more of. I plan to do my scuba certification in May.


 I'll do my best to share my underwater experience but it probably doesn't doesn't translate well.
First I'll say that my mom would have enjoyed it immensely. I thought of her often as wave after wave of color, shape and texture delights you. And wherever you look there is more! The sand is bright white and shimmers like there are diamonds scattered about with coral "heads" that are about the size and shape of a bright pink head of cauliflower. And the bright yellow "plants" that look like someone's long hair but thicker, like fettuccine, reaching for the bright blue sky through the turquoise water. The clown fish are "hidden in the hair" all blue and orange and white. And then the other fish. A large fish the size of  wine bottle that was rainbow colored was my clear favorite. As they turned and twisted, another dazzling display of color brighter and brightest greet you. Or maybe its the small electric blue fish or the bright yellow ones the size of your hand that are like the figment of an overactive imagination, but are real.

My best moment started with a signal to Dave that I was going down to where about 500 of the yellow fish were gathered near the bottom of a pink coral reef. As I swam the 2 or 3 meters down and into the right into the middle of the school; underneath were about 1000 of the small bright blue fish. Suddenly I was surrounded by a blue and yellow snow storm as the fish scurried frantically expressing their extreme disappointment of being disturbed. I stayed as long as I could, then finally swam up and broke the surface laughing with joy. What a moment!


Behind Florence you can see the coral reef that was the staring point for our snorkeling adventure. Thanks so much to Flo for putting the trip together.  Nice job!!! And thanks to Dave and Elle for their fun company and making a pretty good, though not as good breakfast.

Thanks for reading - Layno!!!