Underwear in the bathroom

Slices of Senegal

Traveling alone is easy - really easy. You make whatever decisions suit you at any given time be they thoughtful whimsical logical or fanciful. At the same time when you turn to someone to say - "hey look at that"!!!!!" it's a stranger looking back at you like you're on drugs.

Travelling with others, given my past experiences is much more difficult and stressful. Decisions are negotiated -- you acquiesce -- you defer you work though decisions and this is indeed a more complicated process. In fact -- travelling together has been the undoing of many a friendship, marriage or other relationship. It's not east... at all.

Not so with my great friend Barry, it's just sweet -- as we work effortlessly through what is a very complicated though delicious travel plan. Despite underwear not belonging me festooning the various hotel rooms like some macabre decoration -- he's a fantastic travel partner. So -- with that, let me tell you about Senegal... and more specifically Dakar.







Well looking outward is a whole lot better than looking in. By that, I mean the Atlantic while cold and uninviting is wonderful to look over while enjoying a reasonably priced meal. Couscous and  fish are often in evidence and there's not a thing wrong with that. We found the food fresh healthy and delicious.

Dakar is perched right on the Atlantic and if you had a ruler and a map would see that it's more or less across from Nicaragua. Standing on the shore looking out over the Atlantic, it's clean cool and peaceful. Turn around and the city is not that at all. It's a busy dirty load frenzy of activity bordering on apocalyptic. 

Broken sidewalks and people litter the town as you wander throughout. A startling contradiction are the woman who grace the narrow streets brightly dressed and very beautiful. I'll share a few more shots later. The outfits are fantastic.

In search of the museum, we came across a building where Barry pointed out "that old burned out building" Well that was the museum. It was closed and in need of significant repair. That said we bravely continued through the streets to another historical site that was in great condition though a bit anemic in terms of material. Clearly there is very little resources devoted to capturing and sharing artifacts of the days before..

Here's a few shots.

Super funny when I pretended to sit on this chair ... the Museum folks were not amused.

Ariana Grande bemoans the loss of nearly 1 million followers .....

A cowrie shell mask .. cowrie shells being currency at that time.

Filming a remake of an Alfred Hitchcock movie

 

I'm accustomed to the sky darkening with crows in my native home of Canada but I've never seen so many birds (hawks) as I saw on the mean streets of Dakar. It's a bit disconcerting to be sure. They are menacing looking and in huge numbers. When we asked about them no one seemed to really notice but as Barry and I enjoyed a single malt on the roof at dusk it was an amazing and frightening sight....the stuff of nightmares. Hopefully they never get organized -- they'll take over that city.

Leaving Dakar in Da -car (hahahahahahhah)

 

We hired a taxi to drive us for a couple days which was WAY less expensive than renting a car and self driving. It would have been north of 400 USD for 2 days with a car. We paid about $200 USD and could sit back and enjoy the drive for a couple days. Our driver was a huge good-looking fella and an absolute delight to be around. He was a quiet unassuming chap and an excellent driver. Fortunately for me, he was also and excellent negotiator getting me out of a jam  that I'll describe later. Keeping Layno out of jail is an important though unstated objective of the trip.

So onwards to the French Colonial town of St. Louis, the one -time capital of the region. Below is a picture that shocked and surprised us the first time we saw it but soon became just part of the background as it is a normal part of life in Senegal. And yes - they all have seat belts.... you just can't see them cause the picture is not clear enough.

It's a few hours up to St. Louis and they passed pleasantly enough as we gazed out the window. You cross a bridge to get to the main city as the hooligans below are doing. I think they were celebrating a women's football win but they may want to keep their heads down as they pass over the bridge. Just sayin"....

The hotel was as eclectic and charming as anything I've visited previously. The rooms though small are decorated with a wonderful assortment of bits and pieces of a bygone era. While St. Louis was a town of means and substance at one time, it has fallen completely into ruin now.


 





It's unlikely in my mind that the town can be saved and as sad as that is, it was fascinating to wander the streets poking into once grand hotels and shops along the streets.
 Lunch of (once again) fresh fish was as delicious as it was entertaining. As we sat in a little hovel of a restaurant deviod of any other customers, we listened to the women in the kitchen gossiping and chatting as they prepared our lunch. and while it took forever, it was worth the wait as forever in such a setting is a blessing rather than a curse.




The amount of garbage is shocking -- and this coming from someone who has seen some nasty places. The entire city throws its garbage into the ocean where it simpy refuses to swallow and spits it all back up onto the shore. With our combined Canadian sensibilities we watched shocked and horrorified as two gals walked to the edge of the ocean and emptied the contents of a large garbage bin into the water .... chatting aimiaby as they did so ..









Some say environmentalism is a privilege of the wealthy, but still -- this is a shameful way to behave. N'est pas??

Remnants of a the past stand resolute stripped of the trappings of grandeur that must have been. In another time  it would have been quite the city though we were fortunate to have the opportinuty to be transported back in time for a glimpse of what was and at the same time witnessing the shocking destruction of what is.

Who says white men can't dance? A really nice moment as the kids spontaneouly dance with Barry

Thanks for reading .....Layno !!!

Clementines on the corner

   ... and you know we're riding on the Marrakech Express 🎶🎶

Despite a 5am get up and wandering aimlessly through the streets of Casablanca when I ought not to be, I managed to get on the train to Marrakech. The hostel staff assured me that here is "ALWAYS" a cab to take me to the train station sitting at the round about -- regardless of the time of day. Well not today friends... not today. And when I did hail one after some walking a rather pointed discussion ensued when the cranky-assed driver tried to charge me 3 times the rate. Ahhh the twists and turns of travelling in a foreign land!!! To resolve a small arbitration was arranged with some train staff who agreed that he was over charging. A negotiation with a saw-off was the best resolution and that done -- I was on my way to Marrakech!!!

My camera-shy friend sitting contently on an pile of Clementines near our Riad would likely agree that they are absolutely delicious. Although having escaped my attention until now, these small seedless  sweet orange packages of joy are the perfect tonic to anything that ails ya!!!

And while this is a great reason to visit Marrakech there are others as well. The Medina (in the center of the city)  is a walled inner city with a magical assortment of alleyways and shops and all kinds of people working to make a living. In the center and like a jewel, Place Jamaa El Fna -- in existence since built by the Alvoramids in 1070. Monkeys dance and Falcon's perch nervously watching snake charmers sooth Cobra snakes as they sway menacingly. All the while music from odd string instruments fills the air punctuated by the rhythm of the big drums and the voices of hawkers trying to get your attention. Simply put, it's beautiful mess.

Over the Atlas Mountains

The city is cool and great but the lure for me was the Sahara desert. The snow-capped Atlas mountains beacon tempting you to come and have a look at what is on the other side.That would be the mighty Sahara desert - large enough to fit the entire USA inside it's edges ( not Canada though ) 😊

My camel, humpfree  (due to all the padding) was eager to set out on the sandy trail and lumbered with ease as I tried to get comfy on the "saddle". This is not an easy task I'll tell you. Flat is fine...uphill cool ...but downhill is a bone jolting expletive infested terror stricken event second only to getting off the bloody beast!!!

All of that said - we rode into into the night, the desert quiet cool and it's vastness overwhelming. Occasional sweet smells lingered but quickly were replaced by camel farts which are more common than a tiara on pride day.

As Mom always says - it's the people you meet and we were fortunate to meet a couple from NewYork city who were traveling out to the desert on the same tour. As engaging as they were funny, they were also completely out of thier element complaining about the lack of Mohito's at the various stops along the way. A Mohito in a country 95% Muslim is more likely than Ariana Grande leaving her social media platform.

A funny moment came when Kevin decided there was a must have trinket at a roadside stand. In confidence he shared that he really wanted that little camel and was going to get it at a good price. It was a "watch this" moment. I listened to the beginning of the negotiations as the shopkeeper started way too high. I left and waited with the others until Kevin came out proudly waving the item and smiling. "Never try bargaining with a NewYorker" he proudly exclaimed. "What did you pay" I asked? When he proudly told us the price I pointed out it was more than the orignal price the shopkeeper had asked for ...."yeah" said Kevin ... but I've seen it for way more elsewhere!!! We all laughed good naturely - and "bargain like a New Yorker" became synonymous with paying way too much. That happens when you travel - often. More on this and that fantastic hotel later. How much Barry????????????

Thanks for reading .....Layno!!!

Here's looking at you Kid!!! - Casablanca, Morocco

 

 

Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world she walks into mine....

 

Released in 1942, and one of my favorite movies of all time (next to Life is Beautiful) the iconic film tells the tale of Rick Blaine (Humphrey Bogart) and Ilsa Lund's (Ingrid Bergman) devastating romance. A story of love and places, things that have always pulled at my heartstrings. Not my main motivator for yet another trip from yours truly,  it's more that I have seen a great deal of Africa and the lure of the exotic North and the fascination of the West have led me to this  -- yet another little adventure. 😉

The idea is that I'll explore Casablanca a  bit then go to Marakesh (3 hour train ride south of Casablanca) to meet up with my great friend and travel companion Barry. We'll then make out way to Merzouga near the Algerian border ... there-- we'll cross the mighty Atlas mountains and mount camels (meaning get on top of them)  and explore the mighty Sahara desert!!! (Or at least a small taster)

From there it's onto Senegal where we'll rent a car in Dakar and explore north up to the French Colonial town of St. Louis. Just after that - onto Ghana where we'll do a similar trip renting a car and exploring north from Accra up the coast. Then back to Nairobi for me. Well that 's the best laid plan. Let's see what happens!!! In mind is more of a historical tour trying to make a bit of sense of the Berbers, Bedouin and Bastards -- the last of that triad who made fortunes trading slaves through these main coastal ports.

Kentucky Fried Chicken Morocco style

Though I've just arrived in Casablanca, I took the opportunity to stretch my legs a bit given the longish flight that doglegged through Dubai. 

The walk from the train station in Casablanca to my hostel was super interesting. Cool and sunny I enjoyed the new sights and sounds as I ambled along. More European felling than African, language is definitely an issue and my smattering of French came in handy more than once. I was warned a couple times about my safety and agree having the sense that Casablanca was not the best place to stroll with all your belongings on your back. Armed robbery with knives is popular amongst some of the young, brave yet misguided loitering menacingly about.


Admittedly, I have a hyper-sensitivity to danger in the streets but see this is preferable to the reverse. Casablanca very much reminds me of a combination of Cairo and Paris divided by 25.  
 
A couple shots below from my stroll and later on the ocean front where the Atlantic crashes majestically onto the shores of the Dark Continent.

Lots of fruit around ... conspicuous is lots of big pomegranate

Masjid al-Hassan ath-thani - more on this cool place later

 



Thanks for reading ....Layno!!!