So so & sensational in Saudi

 24 hours with 42 Egyptians

Despite his tender years - my great friend Barry has sage wisdom -- like piles of it  -- and as much as I'm loath to admit it, he's usually right when dispensing particularly poignant bits when asked to do so.  And so it was with completely unconcealed skepticism that he said "Saudi Arabia !!!! -- why would you vacation there!!" Please note the foreshadowing .....

I recall making my case for Saudi. The very holy cities of Mecca and Medina for one -- not to mention that the country has just recently opened to foreign tourists making it a really interesting destination. Notwithstanding the obvious Human rights issues, to all these claims of excitement  he said nothing - a sure sign that there were other destinations he'd have chosen first.

So armed with a very expensive visa and a will to explore this "less than ideal" vacation destination, I boarded a midnight bus to travel the 24 hours from Acaba Jordan to Jeddah Saudi Arabia. 

Reaching the Saudi border, a light rain fell eerily well defined by the bright spotlights seemingly everywhere. That and no other "guests" made for a pretty spooky experience. I expected a complicated border crossing but 5 hours of lining up against a wall and questioned over and over about my intentions as dogs sniffed my private parts menacingly was not in the brochure. This was unexpected. 

 

 

 

The only pleasant part was the 42 Egyptian men on their way to Saudi to work. Despite the lack of English - we made fast friends and enjoyed the next 20 hours as we traveled down the coast of Saudi. 

Ostensibly - and my argument to Barry was that by taking the bus for 24 hours - I'd get to "see" what is between these countries. Thoughts of gently swaying palm trees were replaced with the image at the top of the blog. For the record - there is fuck all between these two cities other than ocean, sand, mosques and gas stations. Of interest though -- were the mosques where the 42 Egyptians enthusiastically invited me to join in washing and prayer. I have to say that the comradely we experienced while completely out of my element was both surprising and delightful. I'm crappy at praying but did my best to follow along. They all had a good laugh that lacked malice or contempt. We were actually having fun. For the record - there were MANY stops to pray. That is why it takes 24 hours to get from Acaba to Jeddah!

Jeddah Saudi Arabia

 

 

It's a city without obvious history and no real interest in the outdoors other than the Corniche pictured above. I seemed to be the only person walking anywhere and had a fair amount of trouble crossing the streets with traffic zooming to and fro. I visited the original part of Jeddah but was a bit disappointed to see that it was falling into ruin with no real interest in preserving. Glass, cement and chrome are taking the place of wooden window boxes and corner stores. All 3 museums were closed and didn't look as though they would open anytime soon. However, the F1 track and race was the hot ticket and there was no lack of resources going into that project from what I could see.

 There are plenty of cats enjoying old town Jeddah but I was less enthusiastic. It may have been the cat's meow ... but not mine.

Sensational Medina

 

My goal was to visit both Mecca and Medina (the birth place and final resting places of Muhammad) but learned that both places were forbidden for me even after my attempt at prayer with the Egyptians. 😀. Nuts!! I thought but was determined to see one or the other at the very least. I had recently read that a guy got close to the entrance of Medina so if he could do so - so could I.

 

Not having had nearly enough of buses, I traveled the 6 hours from Jeddah to Medina. It was a beautiful trip through the desert with mountains rising up as we traveled North and east. My mind easily imaging those fateful days as Mohamed led the prophets to Medina. I scanned the mountains and valleys imaging the battles that raged in these early days. So much history and so impactful for civilizations both then and now.

On my third attempt I was able to walk right into Medina!! I'm not sure how that happened but I was glad to be in this amazing place and made the most of it. I sat reflecting inside the mosque - gazed thoughtfully upon the final resting place of Mohamed and finally walked the square capable of accommodating 2 million faithful. Wow!! 

All of this is n a dazzling display of color symmetry and beauty. Green gold and white - clean crisp and inspiring! In the picture above you can see those huge umbrellas that fold into towers at night. A light mist and fans cool the crowd during the day and inspire awe through the night.

Maybe it's not surprising that in a country that recently has opened up to foreigners and restricted access to the rest of the world - there was an aspect of discrimination. I don't think discrimination is funny but chuckled at how I was perceived by some Saudi Nationals on a number of occasions. I haven't had that in my life before and I'm sure if it was for more than a week my good humor would slowly change to contempt and depression of my generous spirit! 

 

At the restaurant pictured below I was asked to eat outside. There was no table for me despite others eating contentedly and looking on. On another occasion - the Uber taxi sped off once he saw that I was a foreigner. Parents shielded their children's eyes and men gave me hard threatening looks as I did my best to remain cheerful and unaffected. Indeed -- a stranger in a strange land. That all said - the chicken with raisin rice was delicious!!  While in some -- their humanity is lacking - their cooking skills are not. 😁

What do you mean I have to eat outside ???? Fuckers!

In the days that followed I out of Riyadh though not until spending 3 days flat on my back in a shitty hotel trying to recover from a pinched nerve that absolutely leveled me the the next 3 weeks. I promise and pinky swear never to miss my daily yoga again!! I think Bary put a spell on me 😎

In Memory of Max

 

Faster Layno Faster!!!

 

This is my favorite picture of Max taken on one of our trips as we dashed along together for the year and a day we knew one another. Others would say we were inseparable - but I would say that it was far more than that. Somehow our spirits became one over that special year in our lives. His accidental death while tragic and unbelievably sad has left me with lessons about unconditional love and happiness. Lessons about the simple pleasures of a walk - or a falling leaf. The tears still come but they'll end soon and be replaced by memories of our wonderful adventures together. Will Rogers said - "if there are no dogs in heaven - I want to go where they went." Hope to see ya there Max!

Jake, Majengo and Kibera

 

I searched all the pictures from Jake's Christmas celebration but was unable to spot him amongst all those red or blue suits - but there is no mistake that he enjoyed a wonderful Christmas celebration at Le Pic school and had a wonderful year. A big thank you to all who made it possible for Jake to attend school this year. It's an opportunity that many Kenyan children go without.

If you would like to support one of the 3 projects with some cashola - I promise not to spend it on dumb vacations. 😁

The Majengo Kids - The Kibera Kids - or Jake's Education:

1) E-interact -- laynemahon@live.com 

2) Paypal -- laynegmahon@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading ...Layno getting a trim somewhere in the middle east!!!

No Boredom in Jordan!!

 

 

 

I knew a little about Jordan prior to boarding the flight to Amman but not nearly as much as I ought to. I suspect countless joints during high school and the socializing that goes along with such activities may have distracted me from my studies. In a moment of vulnerability here - I'll admit to having such a poor grasp of middle east geography as to think Amman (Oh Oman!!!) was a country. Well - that personal failing has now been rectified and my ignorance somewhat tempered by a trip from northern parts to the southern tip of the beautiful kingdom of Jordan. 

The days of joints and little concern about the world around me have been replaced by a deep and inexplicable curiosity. Like an itch finally scratched, hours in the Jordan Museum  -- as fine a museum as any I've seen -- fly by as images and stories of past civilizations come to life. I'll unreservedly recommend Jordan as a great - no - fantastic destination - and let me tell you why.

 

 AMMAN

Smack dab in the middle of town and high about the twisting streets of Amman is the Citadel. With it's Temple of Hercules standing resolutely at one end, the massive Corinthian columns stand as a reminder of distant times and provide the perfect place to watch the sun set over Israel. A beautiful Roman Theater (below) with it's perfectly proportioned galleries stalls and balconies (and the other fancy bits and bobs) lures the even more weary traveler to its seats.

Not far from Amman are a number of ancient "burbs" where the Greek Nabataean and later Roman influences are clear for all to see. The city is well set up for fumbling tourists like myself with people being welcoming and polite. Well most anyway.

 

 

 

 And the Food!!! Ahhh- such a wonderful shift and departure from the normal. The Humus -- Feta Cheese - Yogurt - and almost all local dishes are amazing. Not always of course as a very expensive Chicken Galayo turned out to be a poor choice. I think the chicken was "inferred" and the tomatoes were missing their garlic onion and spice companions.  So just cooked tomatoes actually. 😆

Always a sucker for a lineup - I joined the 30 or so people in the cue pictured here to see what the fuss was about. It was a warm sticky evening with lots of locals meandering about. The intoxicating smells of Apple Shisha and and fresh Falafels filling the air as the trinket sellers compete and jostle one another  for your attention.

Reaching the front of the cue I mustered my confidence and asked for a regular nodding as I did. Like I knew what I was doing. " 2 Dinar" is all he said and I exchanged about $3.50 for slip of paper that I carried inside. The shouting seemed to be directed at me as I stood there wondering what the fuck was happening so proffered my piece of paper and was rewarded  by a plate of something or other.

Outside I joined about 50 of so people contentedly perched here and there and sampled my something or other purchase. Ahhhh  - now this is living. Pretty much diabetes on a plate, Kanafeh is a Palestinian dessert that combines mild cheese (kinda like mozzarella), some sort of pastry crumbs, ground Pistachio and syrup baked together to become a veritable symphony for the taste buds. Yup - went back for seconds that day and the next. Hey!!!! I'm on vacation.

 

PETRA

 

I think few other than the King of Jordan would argue that the jewel in the crown of Jordan is the ancient city of Petra. It's  a great Wiki read -- with the discovery and history of the construction, but I would say that nothing compares to coming out of the narrow passageway (called a siq) of brightly colored sandstone and seeing the Treasury carved right out of the rock and rising up 40 meters directly in front of you. It is massive, phenomenal, and awe inspiring all at once.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 The next 5kms of Petra take you from one fabulous site to the next with plenty of signs to explain what you're looking at. All along the way the mountains that surround the site are delicately colored by mother nature in subtle pastels ranging from pink to yellow to purple -- well you get the picture. I've never seen anything quite like it and I scratched the rock more than once trying to uncover this fraudulent activity. Even Banksy wouldn't paint over this stuff!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The trail ends after an 800 step climb up  to the Monastery which boasts amazing views. Thinking the folks at the gate wouldn't mind too much I stayed up to watch the sunset and then ventured down in the half light which turned the the already colorful pastel display up a few more notches. I was a treat to be there by myself and enjoy this deeply spiritual treasure in such a selfish way. That said - I stumbled out in the dark to only a nod and smile from the security guys. All was right with the world!

 

 

 

 WADI RUM

 

 

Moving South you have all kinds of stuff to see and do and I reluctantly admitted to myself that  I should have planned better.  I passed on a visit to the Dead Sea finding the whole "hype" a bit overwhelming and hearing reports that the actual site was a bit underwhelming and very expensive.

However -- I did not pass on the opportunity to visit the Wadi Rum Dessert. Uniquely beautiful  -- it too has an undeniable spiritual component. It's quiet - smells sweetly and a gentle warm breeze is your constant companion. I'm not sure what it is about desserts that intrigues me but suspect it's that quietness -- the stillness -- and the fact that I mix it up with the spelling of Desert. I'm still thinking about that Kanafeh. Mmmm!

 

 

 

 

 AQABA

Ostensibly I came to Aqaba for the snorkeling and while I did do just that  -- would say it was a bit disappointing. I'm sure there are better dive sites along the coast but I'm guessing I was spoiled by the coast of Kenya and a recent trip the the blue hole in Egypt. The corral is dying -- mostly gray -- and the fish are few and far between. Maybe they were all somewhere else -- like at a Sea Shepherds convention or something like that.

Out of the water -- I pondered from the view above the city. I pondered the Middle East conflict and what that must be like for the people who live here. They all look the same -- but obviously hold very different views and intense hatreds that are passed from generation to generation. From this view 5 countries can be seen. Egypt - Palestine - Israel - Jordan (where I'm sitting) and Saudi just to the south. History would tell us that conflict has been the mainstay for the entire duration of the regions' civilization . I sincerely hope that is not also it's future.

 

 

 THE PEOPLE OF JORDAN

 

 

 The people of Jordan are unfailingly pleasant and helpful. Taxi drivers smile broadly and auto mechanics cheerfully point the way as you make your way along. Missing - thankfully -- are the trinket sellers who can be so insistent and irritating. A simple no thank you  - and they shift to the next prospective buyer. I felt safe in Jordan - as there is an honor code that exists within the fabric of the country. It's not ok to rip people off  and the contempt for tourists that so often is the reality appears to be absent or at least kept to a minimum. Tourists are quite genuinely welcome.

In the picture above - I found myself in trouble as the Covid19 testing lab was closed until afternoon - and even then it wasn't clear if it would be open. With a bus leaving the following day - I was panicking just a little.😀 Slipping into the Hilton Hotel I noticed a group (I think the Malaysian women's soccer team) getting Covid19 tests. I asked the doctor if he could do mine as well and he cheerfully said he would. When I offered money - he declined saying he was happy to help out. Wow!!!

 

JUST FOOD AFRICA

Many thanks for the recent and generous (and timely) donations from Laurel Barry and Rod. It was greatly appreciated and as always will ensure the money goes to the kids and not to fund my extravagant vacation.  

 

If you would like to donate to  The Majengo Kids - The Kibera Kids - or Jake's Education:

1) E-interact -- laynemahon@live.com 

2) Paypal -- laynegmahon@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for Reading ...Layno somewhere in the Middle East !!!

Termites for Breakie and Caterpillars for Dinner

 

 

 

 

The sounds of birds singing their beautiful morning song greeted me this morning and reminded me of the delicate balance between insects and birds. There's a story about Chairman Mao asking all the people of China to kill a couple flies a day as a response to some kind of diptera outbreak. Once the campaign started it wasn't long before birds began to die of starvation. 

And so it is with that thinking that I continue to live in tentative harmony with the insect population of Africa - all of which have been uninvited house guests at one time or another. Max tussled with an overgrown Preying Mantis the other night who in the end thought it best to seek refuge in a dark corner of the bedroom. Another sleepless night for yours truly.

And it is always with surprise that the November long rains bring along millions of winged termites that fill the sky in search of my coffee cup that sits provocatively under the kitchen night light. In Nairobi, windows don't actually close tight. They keep the monkeys out - but not my winged friends. Each morning, after a rainy night I empty my coffee cup of these winged bastards and go about my day. In some parts of Kenya - folks remove the wings and fry them as a delicious treat. No thanks!!! I would never "knowingly" eat insects.

That brings me to Caterpillars for dinner. While attempting humility - I must admit that the grilled chicken breast on pasta with a gorgeous garlic Parmesan cheese cream sauce was a triumph of my culinary skills 😁 However!!  and unfortunately -- I ate before Essie and without my reading glasses on. Essie sat down as I was finishing and shrieked as she looked at her plate. Caterpillars (or sometimes called maggots) were all through the pasta. It was the damned flour from the sauce -- discovered once we opened the plastic flour tub. "Did you put it through a sieve" she asked? Huh? Why would I do that? Well something new I learned about living in Africa. That said, the next day I felt so healthy and alive. I jumped tall buildings with a single bound - ran faster than a speeding bullet!! I'm guessing it was the extra protein -- but crawled on my belly all day for some inexplicable reason.

 

 

Climbing Higher

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many thanks to Sam and the rest of the folks at Blue Sky for organizing a trip to climb the walls at Hell's Gate. Surprisingly, the climbs proved no contest for this hardy though lightly skilled group of intrepid climbers. In truth, what seemed impossible melted away quickly as we learned new skills and reached new heights. Just like life n'est pas? 

 

 

 

 

As happenstance would have it - the universe saw fit to provide an opportunity for my dear friend Florence and I to get together and enjoy some climbing. She is a fantastic climber being strong and graceful in equal measure. Where I teeter on the brink of constant disaster ..... Flo is one with the cliff face moving with a confident easy fluid motion. Well done!! While she now lives and works down in South Africa - it was a treat to spend time with her and other friends.

Fabulous Progress at Majengo & Kibera!!!

Yesterday, Essie and I made our way to Majengo and Kibera to drop off the monthly food for the kids. In truth, we have given little to Kibera but continue to support in any way we can.

I would like to thank both George and Lisa Cyr for their generous contributions this month. It's humbling that our efforts have made such a difference in so many kids lives.

I was a bit shocked by the progress at both schools. Jeff has been very busy expanding the Soweto Junior Academy adding a kitchen, new classroom and more importantly a computer lab. This is just fantastic!! While a computer lab in every school has been mandated by the National Government, it is another thing to actually get it done.

I also really liked the move from wood (for cooking kids food campfire style) to using a propane pressure cooker. Like the rest of the world, Kenya needs to stop cutting down trees. 

 

Jeff stands proudly in the new Soweto Computer Lab!! Looks Awesome!!

 

 

 

 

And Malezi school continues to expand. The managing team are now working to add a High School over the next couple years. I have to say that the changes during the 5 years where I have been associated with the school -- are simply amazing. Grace and Andrew have done an outstanding job. 

Pictured below, Essie chills with Dennis - a particularly bright young fellow that has come up through Malezi. I would say that he has a pretty good shot at rising up from poverty and becoming a happy contributing member of society. 

 

Where dreams are great and opportunities few - Malezi is doing amazing things to help those dreams become reality.

 

Unfortunately - I am well into my personal finances in supporting food for the kids so - if you would like to donate to  The Majengo Kids - The Kibera Kids - or Jake's Education:

E-interact -- laynemahon@live.com or Paypal -- laynegmahon@gmail.com

I promise the money will be well used as I already have plenty of scotch in the cupboard ....😊

Time for a Vacation!!! 

Next week I leave for what should be an interesting trip to the Middle East. I'll be visiting and exploring Jordan and Saudi Arabia and unlike Lawrence of Arabia - am hoping for a trouble free - conflict free vacation. I'll be sure to share my thoughts on the two countries!

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading .... Layno foolishly close to a Hippo!!!!

4 Days you goofballs!!!

 

 Yup!! They are quite correct -- Mount Kilimanjaro is a beautiful sight as the sun rises!

 

Our good friend Duncan from X-trym Adventures in Kenya patiently explained that it was a 4 or 5 day hike. "No no" said Andy and I - "easily a 3 day hike." Well, we ought to have listened to Duncan but being a couple goofballs we booked Mount Meru with a rather ambitious and unconventional 3 day itinerary. More on that later. 😔

Other than Andy missing the proverbial memo on first day attire (Red shoes Blue top Andy!!! ..geez) we worked well together over the next 3 days taking on and summiting the beautiful Mount Meru. 

A note on Andy: Cheerful and more friendly than a Labrador Retriever -- he engages with everyone he meets always leaving them a little happier than before he met them. He's a joy to be around and while no spring chicken (well both of us are a bit past our "best before" date) he is an exceptional athlete with enviable endurance & strength. 

The climb was beautiful. Lush and green at the bottom - sparse green bits through the midway and stunning at the top as we clambered through the lava rock to the lofty peak. 

On the first day we were accompanied by the Ranger (you can never go anywhere without a Ranger with a gun ...more on THAT later too) our guide Itsi and Harriet a recent grad of the tourism program. Her interest in the flora and fauna around us was only exceeded by her contagious smile and constant laughter. 

I suspect that she got a kick out of Andy and I attempting the climb and scoffed with the idea of doing it in 3 days. Ha - we showed her!! Sort of ....

Here's a few pictures of the climb ....

The summit looms behind ...and looks pretty far away :)

Andy catches his breath and enjoys a stunning view of the crater below

The scenery was amazing  - raw wild and untouched.... and cold AF

While any time is a good time for a snort or two of single malt - this moment was better than most.

Do you really need a Ranger with a gun? (Askari na Bunduki) - oh yes you do!

The gear!!

 On day 2 of the climb we started out with 2 other groups of 2 that had traveled from Oman and Israel. (I'd have said 2 other couples but don't want to give the wrong idea about Andy and I) 😃Along with guides, porters and 2 Rangers (with guns) we worked our way up to base camp.  

During the hike and while chatting amiably (mostly Andy 😁) we learned that recently a Buffalo had attacked a hiker and thankfully - only tossed him into the bushes on the side of the trail. He was unhurt other than a couple bruises.

 As the buffalo tossed the dude - fortunately for the hiker, the big beast had caught the hiker's back pack rather than a more "sensitive" part of his body. You see - we are in the Serengeti essentially  - and there is more wildlife around us than Cristiano Ronaldo fans at a recent Man U game.

We left the warmth of our beds just after midnight and got into into our gear for the summit attempt. After climbing a few of these hills, we're both getting pretty good about having the right gear for the event. As mentioned about the summit view was magnificent, and with perfect timing we got to see Mother Nature light us the earth from 16000 feet. Ahhh what a sight.

Summit accomplished ✔ -- we now headed back down. So - after 5 kms of steep climbing to the summit (1400m elevation gain) we now needed to travel 29 kms downhill dropping 2500 meters to the main gate. And there you have it -- that's why you don't do it in 3 days. I think both Andy and I were a bit surprised by that reality. Duncan - you were right :)

Making matters slightly more interesting was the lack of availability of a Ranger (and more importantly - a gun) "so where are they?" I asked. "oh - they went back down - you've just have to wait". Ahhhhh nope. 

The first 9km were warm and sunny and though my knees were complaining more than Donald Trump at a vote recount  - it went on well. As we started onto the last leg -- and as I joked with Andy about him going first in case of Buffalo - guess what. There he stood in the mist just in front of us looking more like a minivan than a creature of the Savanna. As we came to an abrupt stop he turned and faced us. Ahhh fuck was all that came to mind. In Africa, either the Hippo (easy to avoid if you stay out of the water) or the single male Buffalo are the most feared. Not lions - and not Rhino's - it's far and away the Buffalo with its nasty disposition and ornery outlook on life that is most concerning.

Our guide agreed to stand and face while Andy and I carefully walked backwards about 20 steps or so. I now believe that I have always had an exaggerated sense of my own bravery because at this moment -- with an attack so near reality - I nearly peed myself. Andy and I briefly discussed strategy in surprisingly incoherent comments...  The "book" response in a situation like this is getting down low into a hollow or behind something if he charges. Taking stock we noted that the ground was flat - and we were in a soccer field-like setting. Perfect!!

 

 

 

After about 15 minutes of sweating and cursing the Tanzanian Ranger service (and our own stupidity for not waiting) the 5 porters came up from behind us. After some discussion - together we moved past the buffalo with no incident. I suspect the large number of "targets" was confusing and he went back to grazing.

We saw a lot more animals as we continued along the trail in the warm sun. Bush Bucks, Giraffes, Zebra, Blue Monkeys and Baboons watched calmly as we passed - largely unconcerned with our presence. A young Giraffe hid behind a tree with his neck twisted and craning to get a better view.

 

As luck would have it we ran in to herd of about 60 Buffalo - and while not as concerning as the solitary male, we waited for the Ranger this time - which is smart hey? We eventually  -- after 15 hours of hiking -- made it to the gate and later our hotel where a good steak and beer capped off an exceptional 3 days. And as nature called later that night - I slide off the bed onto my bum and dragged myself to the bathroom before crawling up onto the toilet. My legs would get better fairly soon thanks to Ibuprofen and stretching - but it's a 4 not 3 day climb - Goofball!

A special thanks to my dear friend Lucy who looked after Max and the house while I was Ambling about. Always happy to help - and always entertaining - I am so fortunate to count this amazing woman amongst my friends. Thanks Luce!! Next time if you could leave just a little booze on the shelf that would be great. :)

Jake goes for a swim!!

Yesterday I had the pleasure of lunch with Jake and Yvonne poolside at the Methodist Church. Jake was a bit tentative in the kiddie pool though clearly enjoyed both his fries and splashing about. 

 

His school semester ended this week where he did well and is looking for ward to the next starting in a week's time. If you're interested in helping to support Jake and Yvonne - there is information below on how to donate. Together we can help.

If you would like to donate to  The Majengo Kids - The Kibera Kids - or Jake's Education:

E-interact -- laynemahon@live.com or Paypal -- laynegmahon@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

Layno in Tanzania (with beard) ....... thanks for reading!!!