Languishing in Luxembourg

Has much changed since my grade 4 book report in 1972? 

It was about this postage-sized country that I wrote a school report in 1974. I can remember the finished product with it's beautiful glossy forest green cover and delicious spell of peppermint glue emanating for the carefully selected and placed images within it's pages. I was damned proud of that report and remember thinking about how this small country came to stand so resolute against the giants surrounding. Not only has the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg stood since 1815 --- but has one of the top three GDP's on the planet!!!

It's no small praise to say that this country has managed to build & maintain one of the highest "standards of living" on the planet. And it's certainly not that I agree with $20 hamburgers and $10 pints of beer (I chuckled at the sight of a set steak knives for $600 ) but would say that the orderly state of affairs and a meticulously maintained environment are a pleasant reminder of what people do when they have plenty of dough and time. The parks are beautiful, the streets clean and orderly, museums and concerts free and well attended by those with both an appreciation for the arts and the time to do so.

A classic Luxembourg boutique Hotel. A place where I could stay if I sold all my possessions and lived in a tent thereafter.

From the center of town Notre Dame -- Our Lady of Luxembourg Cathedral beckons seductively with it's tall spires and associated Gothic bits and pieces. Up close and personal it's a fine example from the period with it's high ceilings and stained glass. But more - so much more is the pipe organ on this fine day. Each week -- a different musician is invited to play for the crowds that gather. As if on cue --- he played one of my most favorite pieces -- Bach's Air in G minor. It always makes me a bit weepy for some reason but so too does Puff the magic dragon. I get my sensitivity from my Mom.... definitely not my Dad. :)

 Now these are not your weak and huddled masses of the dark ages-- oh no-- these are a very well healed jet setting milieu straight from the pages of  Vogue and GQ. Though in fairness and with an absence of sarcasm-- appreciative and suitably contemplative. The standing ovation afterwards was enthusiastic but of course we were all standing to start with. The church then emptied as the start of the service - a testament to the times. Gucci beckons.   Air in G minor on a Pipe!

A fantastic pipe organ visually delicious and audibly spectacular!

I also had a chance to take in the Luxembourg Museum of History and enjoyed that very much. I always do :) A couple pieces that caught my eye are beside and below. The wild man on the right, is quite a large piece taken from a family home in the 1800's 300 years after it was commissioned and where it had been placed at the entry to ward off evil spirits. Or better yet -- perhaps to give some idea of the temperament of the occupants. A copy still stands at the house but I loved the idea of this fine fellow guarding the occupants through the nights and days with is fierce look full of danger and drama. And below Jupiter!!!! .... ultimate God of the Roman Pantheon stands stoically below ... one leg missing from all the ass-kicking he's done. Oh yeah Jupiter!!! I think he was a decent MMA guy.

I'm in Belgium for a couple weeks taking an advanced course in security risk management. And yes -- that's risk for people not stuff. It's an intensive two weeks that takes us through scenario after scenario -- learning and re-learning how to analyze the security context/ environment and build mitigation strategies that minimize risk. It's indeed alarming that the number of abductions is exponentially on the rise as rebel groups begin to "export" their abduction expertise and all see it as an easy way to get their hands on cash. The idea of complicated proxy strategy where the would be kidnappers use components of the plan like building blocks -- each "block" unaware of the larger goal and only working for the money.... well it's a frighteningly effective strategy. I can't say more than this in fairness.

 It's our (MSF) daily reality though pleased to say that those who are in charge of this important (maybe the most important) part of our business are seriously fucking smart people. These are leading minds in all aspects of security management dedicated to making sure that MSF continues to access populations in need. All the money in the world won't help if we can't get people to go and help. Hopefully the time will come when humanitarian aid workers are again recognized for the important, independent, impartial and neutral part they play.





A note on last week's post - the day after leaving my beautiful Diani  HSM "Harakat al-Shabaab al-Mujahideen" or more commonly known as Al Shabaab opened fire not far from where I was staying .... killing a civilian and two police officers just as they had done a couple weeks previously. What a shame. Their activities are usually confined to the north coast  (closer to Somalia) though I'm sure the activity now in the south will have the deleterious and premeditated effect of scaring off tourists and the money so desperately needed by the Kenyan people.

Also a quick note on my friend who was so viciously raped and beaten --we'll call her Maria -- is doing very well under the circumstances and expecting to deliver her baby in December.








Thanks for reading.....Layno!!!

Likoni - Now that's a lot of Babies!!!

My Teammates and their tireless efforts on the coast !!!

 

Mary, despite the heat pauses and smiles at the entrance to container village  - our temporary operation in Likoni

The sun pounds down unrelentingly and without mercy on my partner Mary and I as we walk up to the MSF facility in Likoni. Affectionately known as container village, it's near Mombasa on the coast of Kenya and ought to be as pleasant as the palm trees that sway seductively along the white sand beaches. The heat is searing as both the thermometer and humidity reach levels well above what people should be able to tolerate. It's fucking hot....

Mary and I are here to see the Maternal Health operation so that we can better understand what they are doing -- and what their needs are from our shop in Nairobi 450 kms away. Mary -- well what to say about this woman? She is an integral member of my team executing her duties without compromise. She is committed to a positive outcome and will stay late - call through the night - pressure officials one day and if necessary sweet talk them the next. She will without delay rally her teammates to do more  - go farther - work harder - whatever is required to make sure those who depend upon us get what they need. She is a true leader , a thorough professional and we are lucky to have her. Thank you Mary 😝

The container village is a necessarily hastily constructed temporary facility made with used shipping containers placed on a flat spot. Nothing fancy other than those who work there 24/7. Among the staff a tall lanky Scandinavian obstetrician tells me about volunteering here and trying to make a difference. Others move about with casual precision. You see - there's a nurses strike in Kenya that is as protracted as it is unlikely to be solved anytime soon. So the facility meant for 5 -6 babies and the odd cesarean is now dealing with 30 - 40 babies a day and up to 8 c - sections daily.  WTF !!!!!. Now that's a lot of babies.




In the area barely larger than my doctors office in Canada -- this impromptu baby factory turns out one after the other. There is only one warming table (where the babies go immediately after birth) -- meant for 1 baby... but it was occupied by 3 while I was there with a 4th in waiting. Time to stack them up like firewood or towels in the linen closet. That 4th baby - by the way-- was born in the entryway as I stood gawking stupidly and more than slightly horrified. The woman was walking up to the village and simply squatted and delivered. An MSFer casually walked over and took the baby from the cement walk way and placed it on her chest as she lay back grateful to be now in the care of professionals.  Nothing missed a beat. In a place where babies come like popcorn... spectacular and unexpected ...... it's an amazing experience. Its hums like a well oiled machine... day in and out. Hour in and hour out. You may want to think about what life in Likoni would be like without this facility. It's a painful exercise..... particularly as some suggest it may be February before a solution to the nurses strike is found.

It is only temporary and just next door on land owned by Kenya, we are building a big beautiful hospital that will be ready to go in 6 months or less. It's built with the donor dollars that so generously flow to our amazing organization. It will be staffed and supplied by our team but eventually turned over -- as a fully functioning Maternal Health Unit to the Ministry of Health to be run by and for Kenyans. It a wonderful thing indeed.

Hope, an American Nurse is in charge of the day to day. As pleasant as she is effective, the project is quickly progressing under her capable hand. I only got to spend the day with her team but would liked to have spent more time lending a hand. There is a will to succeed here - and to help out  -- getting this much needed facility into service is the task that unites the team here. The quality of construction and the thoughtfulness of design is really impressive particularly in this part of the world where "good enough" is often the gold standard. Fortuitously, many baby's first sights will be this beautiful site.

Hope and I look over the construction... me feeling important with the cool hat. Hope just doing what needs to be done!!

While in Mombasa, we took the opportunity to visit the Port and get a better understanding of how this magnificent "machine" can be used best to help our organization move the countless containers into the country -- to best service the region.  With 23 berths, it is a serious rival to the container village Hahahahahahahahahahahaha. Oh my gosh I am so darn funny!
Below is the new area (births 20 -23) that is very modern and capable of doing much more volume. A new rail line now connects the Port with Nairobi and someday on to Uganda.

I also took it upon myself to spend the weekend in Diani. Pictured beside is my favorite beach bar where many memories of over indulgence and fine conversations with friends come to mind easily and pleasantly. It's a fantastic place with the warm breeze on your face, peace in your heart, great music and the warm Indian Ocean beckoning you for a cheeky night time skinny dip. Out of the lights of course...once you're over 50...well -- now that's just a polite thing to do.

Father John and Andrew doing a bit of instructing

This week's kids!!!

The Malezi Technical Education Program (M-TEP)continues to enrich the lives of young kids through the kind and generous support of volunteers and donations from an extended group of change makers. Together we are making a real difference!!!! Click on the blog link  M-TEP if you're like to read a bit more about the program. And if interested in making a donation.... well then -- please email me at laynemahon@live.com 











Thanks for reading.....Layno!!!