Yup!! They are quite correct -- Mount Kilimanjaro is a beautiful sight as the sun rises!
Our good friend Duncan from
X-trym Adventures in Kenya patiently explained that it was a 4 or 5 day hike. "No no" said Andy and I - "easily a 3 day hike." Well, we ought to have listened to Duncan but being a couple goofballs we booked Mount Meru with a rather ambitious and unconventional 3 day itinerary. More on that later. 😔
Other than Andy missing the proverbial memo on first day attire (Red shoes Blue top Andy!!! ..geez) we worked well together over the next 3 days taking on and summiting the beautiful Mount Meru.
A note on Andy: Cheerful and more friendly than a Labrador Retriever -- he engages with everyone he meets always leaving them a little happier than before he met them. He's a joy to be around and while no spring chicken (well both of us are a bit past our "best before" date) he is an exceptional athlete with enviable endurance & strength.
The climb was beautiful. Lush and green at the bottom - sparse green bits through the midway and stunning at the top as we clambered through the lava rock to the lofty peak.
On the first day we were accompanied by the Ranger (you can never go anywhere without a Ranger with a gun ...more on THAT later too) our guide Itsi and Harriet a recent grad of the tourism program. Her interest in the flora and fauna around us was only exceeded by her contagious smile and constant laughter.
I suspect that she got a kick out of Andy and I attempting the climb and scoffed with the idea of doing it in 3 days. Ha - we showed her!! Sort of ....
Here's a few pictures of the climb ....
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The summit looms behind ...and looks pretty far away :)
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Andy catches his breath and enjoys a stunning view of the crater below
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The scenery was amazing - raw wild and untouched.... and cold AF
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While any time is a good time for a snort or two of single malt - this moment was better than most.
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Do you really need a Ranger with a gun? (Askari na Bunduki) - oh yes you do!
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The gear!!
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On day 2 of the climb we started out with 2 other groups of 2 that had traveled from Oman and Israel. (I'd have said 2 other couples but don't want to give the wrong idea about Andy and I) 😃Along with guides, porters and 2 Rangers (with guns) we worked our way up to base camp.
During the hike and while chatting amiably (mostly Andy 😁) we learned that recently a Buffalo had attacked a hiker and thankfully - only tossed him into the bushes on the side of the trail. He was unhurt other than a couple bruises.
As the buffalo tossed the dude - fortunately for the hiker, the big beast had caught the hiker's back pack rather than a more "sensitive" part of his body. You see - we are in the Serengeti essentially - and there is more wildlife around us than Cristiano Ronaldo fans at a recent Man U game.
We left the warmth of our beds just after midnight and got into into our gear for the summit attempt. After climbing a few of these hills, we're both getting pretty good about having the right gear for the event. As mentioned about the summit view was magnificent, and with perfect timing we got to see Mother Nature light us the earth from 16000 feet. Ahhh what a sight.
Summit accomplished ✔ -- we now headed back down. So - after 5 kms of steep climbing to the summit (1400m elevation gain) we now needed to travel 29 kms downhill dropping 2500 meters to the main gate. And there you have it -- that's why you don't do it in 3 days. I think both Andy and I were a bit surprised by that reality. Duncan - you were right :)
Making matters slightly more interesting was the lack of availability of a Ranger (and more importantly - a gun) "so where are they?" I asked. "oh - they went back down - you've just have to wait". Ahhhhh nope.
The first 9km were warm and sunny and though my knees were complaining more than Donald Trump at a vote recount - it went on well. As we started onto the last leg -- and as I joked with Andy about him going first in case of Buffalo - guess what. There he stood in the mist just in front of us looking more like a minivan than a creature of the Savanna. As we came to an abrupt stop he turned and faced us. Ahhh fuck was all that came to mind. In Africa, either the Hippo (easy to avoid if you stay out of the water) or the single male Buffalo are the most feared. Not lions - and not Rhino's - it's far and away the Buffalo with its nasty disposition and ornery outlook on life that is most concerning.
Our guide agreed to stand and face while Andy and I carefully walked backwards about 20 steps or so. I now believe that I have always had an exaggerated sense of my own bravery because at this moment -- with an attack so near reality - I nearly peed myself. Andy and I briefly discussed strategy in surprisingly incoherent comments... The "book" response in a situation like this is getting down low into a hollow or behind something if he charges. Taking stock we noted that the ground was flat - and we were in a soccer field-like setting. Perfect!!
After about 15 minutes of sweating and cursing the Tanzanian Ranger service (and our own stupidity for not waiting) the 5 porters came up from behind us. After some discussion - together we moved past the buffalo with no incident. I suspect the large number of "targets" was confusing and he went back to grazing.
We saw a lot more animals as we continued along the trail in the warm sun. Bush Bucks, Giraffes, Zebra, Blue Monkeys and Baboons watched calmly as we passed - largely unconcerned with our presence. A young Giraffe hid behind a tree with his neck twisted and craning to get a better view.
As luck would have it we ran in to herd of about 60 Buffalo - and while not as concerning as the solitary male, we waited for the Ranger this time - which is smart hey? We eventually -- after 15 hours of hiking -- made it to the gate and later our hotel where a good steak and beer capped off an exceptional 3 days. And as nature called later that night - I slide off the bed onto my bum and dragged myself to the bathroom before crawling up onto the toilet. My legs would get better fairly soon thanks to Ibuprofen and stretching - but it's a 4 not 3 day climb - Goofball!
A special thanks to my dear friend Lucy who looked after Max and the house while I was Ambling about. Always happy to help - and always entertaining - I am so fortunate to count this amazing woman amongst my friends. Thanks Luce!! Next time if you could leave just a little booze on the shelf that would be great. :)
Jake goes for a swim!!
Yesterday I had the pleasure of lunch with Jake and Yvonne poolside at the Methodist Church. Jake was a bit tentative in the kiddie pool though clearly enjoyed both his fries and splashing about.
His school semester ended this week where he did well and is looking for ward to the next starting in a week's time. If you're interested in helping to support Jake and Yvonne - there is information below on how to donate. Together we can help.
If you would like to donate to The Majengo Kids - The Kibera Kids - or Jake's Education:
E-interact -- laynemahon@live.com or Paypal -- laynegmahon@gmail.com
Layno in Tanzania (with beard) ....... thanks for reading!!!
Yesterday, Essie and I made our way to Majengo and Kibera to drop off the monthly food for the kids. In truth, we have given little to Kibera but continue to support in any way we can.
