Joburg & Jake

A Quick Tour of South Africa

Johannesburg is nicknamed Jozi or more commonly Joburg by most and in the same way that the name is shortened so too are the offerings for curious visitors to the city.  Well - in fairness, I only saw a bit of the city but what i saw was a city trying desperately to shrug off the massive chip on it's shoulder and leap forward into the future. Below is a part of town called Newtown ( for all too obvious reasons) 

Newtown is resplendent with hipster hangouts and fancy clothing shops. The people, a not - so - surprising number being white skinned, stroll merrily around or lounge contently over cappuccino decorated with the latest Rosetta and capped solicitously with chocolate sprinkles and whatnot.

My tour guide on the day was Merdlyn who I met quite by accident as she struggled with a mountain of gifts she was attempting to get back to Zimbabwe, her home country. I helped out a bit in getting the gifts to the bus depot so they could then make their journey to her waiting Rellies. In exchange she graciously offered to show me around a bit over the next 2 days.
I would say that my experience was a positive one mostly due to her fun friendly easy going nature and joyful outlook on life. We chatted endlessly about life in Joburg and her reasons for leaving her home country for a bit. It's almost time to go back she pointed out given recent events taking place in Zim (as she affectionately calls it). A big thank you to this lovely soul for taking the time to hang out with me and sharing her music. She's an excellent and very talented musician.


So as wonderful as both Merdlyn and Newtown are .... there are clear no-go areas and clear danger to those walking the streets as I so often do when I travel. As Merdlyn and I asked directions once a helpful man said ... "oh no don't go left ... go right or you'll be in big trouble". In Joburg the difference between safely and disaster can be a 50m walk in the wrong direction. I went walking after dark in search of food one evening and realized how foolish that was as passers by leered at me and made threatening gestures. Oops.....

She and I also had a weird experience ... in the wrong part of town (oops x 2) when suddenly everyone was running and shouting. Vendor carts were being knocked over, people yelling and falling. I grabbed my bag and held it to my chest as Merdlyn and I quickly ran half-crouched in the direction most seemed to be headed. Around the corner and half a block away - life returned to normal. Who knows what that was. I'll imagine it was James Bond being chased by secret agents after making off with the secret micro-chip containing highly sensitive government docments.... though it more likely was a raid on vendors selling knock-offs from Vietnam.

Simply put -- in my humble Joburg is not yet a safe place and should be seen from a taxi ... not on foot...... at least for now.

The Apartheid Museum in Joburg

Having the photo of me alongside advertising for the Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela exhibition at the Apartheid Museum was a great moment for me. Along with my Dad and Mom  -- of course -- he is one of my great heroes.  I recently studied Steven Biko's contribution to the anti-apartheid movement through his leadership in the black consciousness movement. All that history includes, centrally, Nelson Mandela and his amazing grace and contribution. 

Kwame went through the White and I through the non-white entrance as dictated by our tickets. We had to chuckle ....

Clearly identified as a white person

The museum is a first rate world class institution in my view. When you first enter the museum, your ticket stub directs you to either a white or non-white entrance (at random of course). Before being reunited 50 meters along, you are then channeled through various exhibits that give a small taste of what it is like to face this kind of discriminatory practice.  Above is a really great guy I had the pleasure of meeting at the hostel. Kwame, a fellow humanitarian from New York; He & I spent a good part of the day exploring this fine exhibition together. It is one of the best museums I have visited absolutely bursting with information laid out in a manner that allows you to sip a little or drink deeply from the almost limitless well of details. I -- of course -- drank deeply finding all kinds of interesting facts about this difficult time in our world's history. Almost humorously contrived were the video clips of the then politicians justifying their actions. What a fucking joke. I remember boycotting Shell company in my early 20's because they supported apartheid. I had no idea what that actually meant... years later. I'm glad I did that even  if for the wrong reasons. The Apartheid Museum is well worth the time for both the presentation and a reminder of how we actually can un-fuck something so terribly messed up if we have great leadership.!!

Introducing Jake!!!

 

If you've read any of my previous blogs you may recall the story of my friend who was brutally assaulted 9 months ago. Well - I'm happy to report that mother and child are doing very well both being happy and healthy. I had the good fortune to be invited to visit my friend and Jake 4 days after he entered our world and am very grateful for the invitation.

As I sat in their humble comfy home and talked and laughed with my friend and her family we listened to Jake making his little noises oblivious to the conversation around him. The world remains a beautiful place stubbornly refusing to allow the mis-deeds of some ruin the joy of so many others. If you have an interest in helping my friend and little Jake - please let me know by email and we can get a few bucks to them.

Email me at .... Laynemahon@live.com Also thank you to my friend for letting me share her story and pictur

Back on the road for an 18 hour bus trip leaving the north for the very south of South Africa -- Cape Town. Why the bus and not a plane? Well how else would one get to see what's between here and there. Next blog-- Cape town.... said to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It's no Joburg 😁

Thanks for reading .....Layno!!!

PS - I've passed 15,000 page views on my blog -- and feel deeply honored humbled and privileged that you would take an interest.

Thank you!!

Angels & Assholes

Nairobi - Paris - Geneva  - Bordeaux - Paris - Amsterdam - Brussels - Nairobi in 8 days.

291 km/h on a train hehe love it!!

The markets on Sunday in Paris are a treat to the senses

Without question Europe is an amazing place at any time of year. And though cold as fuck - it was a treat to have the opportunity to visit 5 countries at Christmas time to conduct some consultative meetings. The cities decorated bright and beautiful in this magical time, I was there to explore and discuss exciting changes to East Africa Supply Chain strategy for Medecins Sans Frontiers. The changes will help us to be even more agile given rapidly changing context(s), unexpected medical emergencies and continuing need for our services. In other words - we get to save more lives.

Europe is compelling and exciting with it's fancy streets, and stores chock o' block full of strange and wonderful treasures.Around every corner is something to catch your curious spirit and send you off contemplating what an amazing world we share.

 

In between meetings and travel I schlepped around Geneva Paris and so on looking at stuff including the purchase of this fantastic painting. I loved it immediately and when one of my daughter and my favorite songs played -- I knew I had to have it. It was a must have. I am Rabbit - And I am proud!!!... symbolizing for me the importance of being proud of who you are taking the world on - one asshole at a time.

I say assholes because as much as the world is full of amazing wonderful souls  - there are those whose dark hearts bring misery to many and whose conduct is inextricably linked to acts of deleterious intent.

Maybe I stood out too much?

The clear distinction between angels and assholes came to me just after I was robbed in the Paris subway.  The irony that after time in Nairobi Mumbai Juba Delhi Cairo and other places famous for lightening the purses and pockets of passers -by that it would happen to me in Paris. Maybe I was a little too relaxed and then spent a little too much thought on how I had contributed to the situation. Fuck that! It's victims mentality to blame oneself for the scurrilous deeds of others. They are indeed assholes and deserve the title and our utter contempt. I was in the wrong place at the wrong time. So good were the robbers that they also managed to get my pin number and within 2 minutes of my using the credit card, they had started withdrawing cash from my account. I do admire their professionalism - very very good robbers.😖





Angels - on the other hand; those who bring lightness to our lives and act to make better the world we share - are far more numerous. On the left happens to be a Victoria Secret Angel but hey -- they come in all shapes and sizes.

As much as getting robbed sucks - it did create quite an adventure as I found myself penniless and without options in the rainy streets of Paris. The police were kind and helpful as was the hotel that took me in on my word to pay later. The Canadian Embassy was phenomenal taking a serious interest in helping me out as best and quickly as they could. An emergency travel document was ready within 2 hours of completing the application. (mind you at $450 it should be quick 😜)








Speaking of assholes once more  - I agreed to "mule" some generously donated laptops from Ernst and Young  (EY) in Belgium. I met Ken (thanks Ken!!!) when he came to volunteer with M-TEP in Nairobi - the charity I work with. He worked tirelessly to get 5 laptops to my hotel in Belgium - my only job was getting them to the slum kids in Kenya. Well - almost through customs I got a "HOLD IT RIGHT THERE"!! "Whats in the bag says the customs guy".... I explained it was a donation for the kids. He immediately saw the opportunity to make himself better off by a few hundred dollars. The bribe price stared at $500 and went quickly down to $100. When I described my still all-too-fresh robbery and explained that I had no money at all - he thought leaving one laptop behind for him was the best option. Thinking quickly I recognized I had only one option. I would need to cry. And so i did. Yup -- that did it. As I blubbered - it's for the kids - his Grinch-like heart cracked a bit and he waved my sobbing ass through. Victory!!! There's always a way to get around assholes.





Maybe the solution to asshole customs guys is more of these little guys. They roam around the airport (not Kenya - Schiphol in Amsterdam)  answering questions from weary travelers. Gates and departure times, temperatures in the city you are going to and so on.

Cuter than Selena Gomez in a onesey , they will also use your phone to take a picture of you. Always cheerful and helpful - the future is interesting indeed!!!!

Thanks for reading.....Layno!!!!!

Now that's -- Entertainment!!

Digesting Dvorak  & Gyrating to Greece

 

When I think of Schubert and Dvorak - I think of of  the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra or the Berlin Philharmonic taking listeners to a special place with their remarkable ability to re-create the work of those musical geniuses. So when I heard about a classical concert in Nairobi with tickets for only $8.00 I was a bit skeptical. The Nairobi Orchestra has been going strong for 50 years but often not well attended as a favored local event. A close friend warned me about the last performance - noting that at $8 it still may not be good value for money. I immediately thought of my kids many school concerts I had attended and listened to the "strings" performances. Is that a cat in heat I thought to myself once.... but of course you have to start somewhere :)

In the end it was extremely well done.. in fact it was superb!!! I went with a group of classical music lovers and as we sipped wine later and compared notes -- it was clear that the NSO had exceeded our expectations. Good for Nairobi. In a land where thoughts of life, food, health and death are often top of mind -- it is a beautiful and fragile thing that the arts are growing and accessible to Nairobians.

In the weekend following my good friend Jayne called asking if I wanted to see the musical Greece with her. Well -- actually -- she just asked that I buy tickets for here as she was out of town and didn't want to miss out. Hehe. After some begging -- she ( I think reluctantly) agreed to take me along.  I'm sure she was afraid I would embarrass her by being overly enthusiastic... I do love musicals!!!

Jayne has been in my life since my firsts weeks in Nairobi. A great friend - she is as interesting as she is thoughtful. A successful actress turned rabbit farmer - to construction manager - to agricultural specialist - there is little that scares her or doesn't pique her curiosity.

As we huddled conspiratorially over Samosas and beer before the show - she regaled me with stories about her past week in India working with agriculturalists there to improve the quality of life. What a cool chick!!!

 






From Rizzo, slutty and lovable -- to Sandy pure and perfect -- the cast did a terrific job putting on a very entertaining show. Notable in particular was the dancing. Kenyans can really move -- maybe not to the same degree as this writer  💃- but pretty good all the same.  On the right is a toothpaste advertisement that sums the reality nicely.  If you recall the story of Greece - it ends with a dance competition where John Travolta chooses a woman of "questionable" character (albeit sexy AF) as his dance partner and goes on to win... leading to Sandy adopting a more "sexy come bad girl" persona to win him back. I wonder if that part was written by Harvey Weinstien ... anyway - the young woman who played this part (Cha Cha) was so talented it was nearly impossible to look away. She stole the show in my mind ..... what a treat that was!

At the same time as I thoroughly enjoyed the Kenyan entertainment offerings which are growing in both number and quality, the harsh realities of an unstable  security environment are nearly everywhere. Pictured beside - the burned out hulk of a Matatu that wont be ferrying passengers around anytime soon. A roadside reminder the election violence from that same week. It should be over now... hopefully put aside for now and forever.

 On my way to work on Friday, on a quiet street lay a man. As the traffic including ourselves drove by others walk past the body of the man. It reminded me of a deer or dog in my own country after being hit by a car. The legs are oddly positioned as are the arms... leaving you with undeniable evidence of yet another preventable African tragedy. Crossing the street is literally taking your life in your hands.Someone had thoughtfully placed a large bow of Bougainvillea just ahead of the body so traffic would avoid running over him again and again. The image stayed with me for the day -- as I hoped someone would grieve his death and that the people responsible for the well-being of pedestrians might be reminded of their duties and responsibilities.

 

Thanks reading -- Layno -- suddenly 55 years old !! WTF?