Joburg & Jake

A Quick Tour of South Africa

Johannesburg is nicknamed Jozi or more commonly Joburg by most and in the same way that the name is shortened so too are the offerings for curious visitors to the city.  Well - in fairness, I only saw a bit of the city but what i saw was a city trying desperately to shrug off the massive chip on it's shoulder and leap forward into the future. Below is a part of town called Newtown ( for all too obvious reasons) 

Newtown is resplendent with hipster hangouts and fancy clothing shops. The people, a not - so - surprising number being white skinned, stroll merrily around or lounge contently over cappuccino decorated with the latest Rosetta and capped solicitously with chocolate sprinkles and whatnot.

My tour guide on the day was Merdlyn who I met quite by accident as she struggled with a mountain of gifts she was attempting to get back to Zimbabwe, her home country. I helped out a bit in getting the gifts to the bus depot so they could then make their journey to her waiting Rellies. In exchange she graciously offered to show me around a bit over the next 2 days.
I would say that my experience was a positive one mostly due to her fun friendly easy going nature and joyful outlook on life. We chatted endlessly about life in Joburg and her reasons for leaving her home country for a bit. It's almost time to go back she pointed out given recent events taking place in Zim (as she affectionately calls it). A big thank you to this lovely soul for taking the time to hang out with me and sharing her music. She's an excellent and very talented musician.


So as wonderful as both Merdlyn and Newtown are .... there are clear no-go areas and clear danger to those walking the streets as I so often do when I travel. As Merdlyn and I asked directions once a helpful man said ... "oh no don't go left ... go right or you'll be in big trouble". In Joburg the difference between safely and disaster can be a 50m walk in the wrong direction. I went walking after dark in search of food one evening and realized how foolish that was as passers by leered at me and made threatening gestures. Oops.....

She and I also had a weird experience ... in the wrong part of town (oops x 2) when suddenly everyone was running and shouting. Vendor carts were being knocked over, people yelling and falling. I grabbed my bag and held it to my chest as Merdlyn and I quickly ran half-crouched in the direction most seemed to be headed. Around the corner and half a block away - life returned to normal. Who knows what that was. I'll imagine it was James Bond being chased by secret agents after making off with the secret micro-chip containing highly sensitive government docments.... though it more likely was a raid on vendors selling knock-offs from Vietnam.

Simply put -- in my humble Joburg is not yet a safe place and should be seen from a taxi ... not on foot...... at least for now.

The Apartheid Museum in Joburg

Having the photo of me alongside advertising for the Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela exhibition at the Apartheid Museum was a great moment for me. Along with my Dad and Mom  -- of course -- he is one of my great heroes.  I recently studied Steven Biko's contribution to the anti-apartheid movement through his leadership in the black consciousness movement. All that history includes, centrally, Nelson Mandela and his amazing grace and contribution. 

Kwame went through the White and I through the non-white entrance as dictated by our tickets. We had to chuckle ....

Clearly identified as a white person

The museum is a first rate world class institution in my view. When you first enter the museum, your ticket stub directs you to either a white or non-white entrance (at random of course). Before being reunited 50 meters along, you are then channeled through various exhibits that give a small taste of what it is like to face this kind of discriminatory practice.  Above is a really great guy I had the pleasure of meeting at the hostel. Kwame, a fellow humanitarian from New York; He & I spent a good part of the day exploring this fine exhibition together. It is one of the best museums I have visited absolutely bursting with information laid out in a manner that allows you to sip a little or drink deeply from the almost limitless well of details. I -- of course -- drank deeply finding all kinds of interesting facts about this difficult time in our world's history. Almost humorously contrived were the video clips of the then politicians justifying their actions. What a fucking joke. I remember boycotting Shell company in my early 20's because they supported apartheid. I had no idea what that actually meant... years later. I'm glad I did that even  if for the wrong reasons. The Apartheid Museum is well worth the time for both the presentation and a reminder of how we actually can un-fuck something so terribly messed up if we have great leadership.!!

Introducing Jake!!!

 

If you've read any of my previous blogs you may recall the story of my friend who was brutally assaulted 9 months ago. Well - I'm happy to report that mother and child are doing very well both being happy and healthy. I had the good fortune to be invited to visit my friend and Jake 4 days after he entered our world and am very grateful for the invitation.

As I sat in their humble comfy home and talked and laughed with my friend and her family we listened to Jake making his little noises oblivious to the conversation around him. The world remains a beautiful place stubbornly refusing to allow the mis-deeds of some ruin the joy of so many others. If you have an interest in helping my friend and little Jake - please let me know by email and we can get a few bucks to them.

Email me at .... Laynemahon@live.com Also thank you to my friend for letting me share her story and pictur

Back on the road for an 18 hour bus trip leaving the north for the very south of South Africa -- Cape Town. Why the bus and not a plane? Well how else would one get to see what's between here and there. Next blog-- Cape town.... said to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It's no Joburg 😁

Thanks for reading .....Layno!!!

PS - I've passed 15,000 page views on my blog -- and feel deeply honored humbled and privileged that you would take an interest.

Thank you!!

Angels & Assholes

Nairobi - Paris - Geneva  - Bordeaux - Paris - Amsterdam - Brussels - Nairobi in 8 days.

291 km/h on a train hehe love it!!

The markets on Sunday in Paris are a treat to the senses

Without question Europe is an amazing place at any time of year. And though cold as fuck - it was a treat to have the opportunity to visit 5 countries at Christmas time to conduct some consultative meetings. The cities decorated bright and beautiful in this magical time, I was there to explore and discuss exciting changes to East Africa Supply Chain strategy for Medecins Sans Frontiers. The changes will help us to be even more agile given rapidly changing context(s), unexpected medical emergencies and continuing need for our services. In other words - we get to save more lives.

Europe is compelling and exciting with it's fancy streets, and stores chock o' block full of strange and wonderful treasures.Around every corner is something to catch your curious spirit and send you off contemplating what an amazing world we share.

 

In between meetings and travel I schlepped around Geneva Paris and so on looking at stuff including the purchase of this fantastic painting. I loved it immediately and when one of my daughter and my favorite songs played -- I knew I had to have it. It was a must have. I am Rabbit - And I am proud!!!... symbolizing for me the importance of being proud of who you are taking the world on - one asshole at a time.

I say assholes because as much as the world is full of amazing wonderful souls  - there are those whose dark hearts bring misery to many and whose conduct is inextricably linked to acts of deleterious intent.

Maybe I stood out too much?

The clear distinction between angels and assholes came to me just after I was robbed in the Paris subway.  The irony that after time in Nairobi Mumbai Juba Delhi Cairo and other places famous for lightening the purses and pockets of passers -by that it would happen to me in Paris. Maybe I was a little too relaxed and then spent a little too much thought on how I had contributed to the situation. Fuck that! It's victims mentality to blame oneself for the scurrilous deeds of others. They are indeed assholes and deserve the title and our utter contempt. I was in the wrong place at the wrong time. So good were the robbers that they also managed to get my pin number and within 2 minutes of my using the credit card, they had started withdrawing cash from my account. I do admire their professionalism - very very good robbers.😖





Angels - on the other hand; those who bring lightness to our lives and act to make better the world we share - are far more numerous. On the left happens to be a Victoria Secret Angel but hey -- they come in all shapes and sizes.

As much as getting robbed sucks - it did create quite an adventure as I found myself penniless and without options in the rainy streets of Paris. The police were kind and helpful as was the hotel that took me in on my word to pay later. The Canadian Embassy was phenomenal taking a serious interest in helping me out as best and quickly as they could. An emergency travel document was ready within 2 hours of completing the application. (mind you at $450 it should be quick 😜)








Speaking of assholes once more  - I agreed to "mule" some generously donated laptops from Ernst and Young  (EY) in Belgium. I met Ken (thanks Ken!!!) when he came to volunteer with M-TEP in Nairobi - the charity I work with. He worked tirelessly to get 5 laptops to my hotel in Belgium - my only job was getting them to the slum kids in Kenya. Well - almost through customs I got a "HOLD IT RIGHT THERE"!! "Whats in the bag says the customs guy".... I explained it was a donation for the kids. He immediately saw the opportunity to make himself better off by a few hundred dollars. The bribe price stared at $500 and went quickly down to $100. When I described my still all-too-fresh robbery and explained that I had no money at all - he thought leaving one laptop behind for him was the best option. Thinking quickly I recognized I had only one option. I would need to cry. And so i did. Yup -- that did it. As I blubbered - it's for the kids - his Grinch-like heart cracked a bit and he waved my sobbing ass through. Victory!!! There's always a way to get around assholes.





Maybe the solution to asshole customs guys is more of these little guys. They roam around the airport (not Kenya - Schiphol in Amsterdam)  answering questions from weary travelers. Gates and departure times, temperatures in the city you are going to and so on.

Cuter than Selena Gomez in a onesey , they will also use your phone to take a picture of you. Always cheerful and helpful - the future is interesting indeed!!!!

Thanks for reading.....Layno!!!!!

Now that's -- Entertainment!!

Digesting Dvorak  & Gyrating to Greece

 

When I think of Schubert and Dvorak - I think of of  the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra or the Berlin Philharmonic taking listeners to a special place with their remarkable ability to re-create the work of those musical geniuses. So when I heard about a classical concert in Nairobi with tickets for only $8.00 I was a bit skeptical. The Nairobi Orchestra has been going strong for 50 years but often not well attended as a favored local event. A close friend warned me about the last performance - noting that at $8 it still may not be good value for money. I immediately thought of my kids many school concerts I had attended and listened to the "strings" performances. Is that a cat in heat I thought to myself once.... but of course you have to start somewhere :)

In the end it was extremely well done.. in fact it was superb!!! I went with a group of classical music lovers and as we sipped wine later and compared notes -- it was clear that the NSO had exceeded our expectations. Good for Nairobi. In a land where thoughts of life, food, health and death are often top of mind -- it is a beautiful and fragile thing that the arts are growing and accessible to Nairobians.

In the weekend following my good friend Jayne called asking if I wanted to see the musical Greece with her. Well -- actually -- she just asked that I buy tickets for here as she was out of town and didn't want to miss out. Hehe. After some begging -- she ( I think reluctantly) agreed to take me along.  I'm sure she was afraid I would embarrass her by being overly enthusiastic... I do love musicals!!!

Jayne has been in my life since my firsts weeks in Nairobi. A great friend - she is as interesting as she is thoughtful. A successful actress turned rabbit farmer - to construction manager - to agricultural specialist - there is little that scares her or doesn't pique her curiosity.

As we huddled conspiratorially over Samosas and beer before the show - she regaled me with stories about her past week in India working with agriculturalists there to improve the quality of life. What a cool chick!!!

 






From Rizzo, slutty and lovable -- to Sandy pure and perfect -- the cast did a terrific job putting on a very entertaining show. Notable in particular was the dancing. Kenyans can really move -- maybe not to the same degree as this writer  💃- but pretty good all the same.  On the right is a toothpaste advertisement that sums the reality nicely.  If you recall the story of Greece - it ends with a dance competition where John Travolta chooses a woman of "questionable" character (albeit sexy AF) as his dance partner and goes on to win... leading to Sandy adopting a more "sexy come bad girl" persona to win him back. I wonder if that part was written by Harvey Weinstien ... anyway - the young woman who played this part (Cha Cha) was so talented it was nearly impossible to look away. She stole the show in my mind ..... what a treat that was!

At the same time as I thoroughly enjoyed the Kenyan entertainment offerings which are growing in both number and quality, the harsh realities of an unstable  security environment are nearly everywhere. Pictured beside - the burned out hulk of a Matatu that wont be ferrying passengers around anytime soon. A roadside reminder the election violence from that same week. It should be over now... hopefully put aside for now and forever.

 On my way to work on Friday, on a quiet street lay a man. As the traffic including ourselves drove by others walk past the body of the man. It reminded me of a deer or dog in my own country after being hit by a car. The legs are oddly positioned as are the arms... leaving you with undeniable evidence of yet another preventable African tragedy. Crossing the street is literally taking your life in your hands.Someone had thoughtfully placed a large bow of Bougainvillea just ahead of the body so traffic would avoid running over him again and again. The image stayed with me for the day -- as I hoped someone would grieve his death and that the people responsible for the well-being of pedestrians might be reminded of their duties and responsibilities.

 

Thanks reading -- Layno -- suddenly 55 years old !! WTF?

1 Wedding and 5 Funerals

 

Dreams and Dread in Nairobi

Who doesn't love a wedding?!!!   Well maybe a man or woman left standing lonely at the alter but that definitely wasn't the case at this beautiful and fun-filled event!!!  I'm sure there were at least 300 but more like 500 were in attendance all dressed beautifully and sporting great big smiles. I'd heard of the fabled weddings of Kenya and yearned to be a part of one some day.

Fortunately for me, my friend Irene Gathiaka was kind enough to get me an invite. Irene and I have known one another for a couple years now starting with a French-club brunch where only the 2 of us showed up. And neither being particularly proficient we switched to English alarmingly quickly considering our desire to "Parle the Francais". Since that time - I have enjoyed learning about her work as a TV news presenter and now an investment banker. She frequently puts on business nights where well-known members of the business community come to talk about business in Nairobi. They are always well attended mostly due to her excellent organizing skills and vast connections throughout the city. By all accounts - she is an amazing classy and graceful soul who I'm privileged to know .... and get an invite to this swanky doo!!!!!


 



 So what's the fuss about I wondered as we arrived?  Well the differences are not that stark given that both North American weddings and African ceremonies are rooted in Christian values and traditions. The departures are twofold in my humble opinion. First, the ceremony is as much about 2 families uniting as it is about 2 people joining in holy matrimony. Where in North American my sense is that the bride (traditionally) is given to the "new guy" so that they may start their lives together ,the African wedding seems to be more about creating a bond between families through a healthy mix of Judaeo-Christian values and African traditions. Speeches were a Ted Talk-like presentation of how to have a happy marriage. Comments were about the seasons of life and staying together no matter how challenging the times. Sage and thoughtful advice to be sure.

The second departure is the reception of the new couple where there is a plethora of great dancing and singing -- clapping and laughing. The brief clip above is the bride arriving at the reception... hence the name ☺....  and the dancing and singing just goes on and on from there. I found myself smiling broadly the entire time ... thankful for the joy that comes from new beginnings and the thoughtful invitation from Irene. Also - my thanks to the bride and groom for the invitation. I wish them the best.

One of my favorite movies of all time is 4 weddings and a funeral. Take out the brilliant performances of an all-star cast with some truly very funny and heart-warming moments -- and you still have a beautiful story. What for me makes the story so compelling and touching is the joy that comes from those finding love ...and celebrating that love with those they care about.  That gives way to the absolute tragedy and misery that comes from the end of life within the same context-- leaving the viewer to wonder about joy versus sorrow and life versus death.


That slightly dark and emotional idea adequately expressed (maybe more than required), I couldn't help but feel that same sense of incomprehensible loss as the politics of Nairobi played out this week in dreadful fashion. The newspaper accounts are bad enough, but the off-line photos and stories are truly horrific. Five killed and countless wounded as the people of Nairobi came out to greet the leader of the opposing party. What fresh hell is this?

Above a protester lies dead while smoke billows from a police riot vehicle in the background. This is near my office in East Nairobi -- though my team and I wisely chose to stay home for the day rather than be caught up in the chaos known as peaceful political protest. At least 5 lie dead after Fridays unfortunate events. How many Mothers - Brothers - Fathers - Sons - Daughters and others are grieving today? And what is the future of this country where the welcoming back of the leader of the opposition ends in death, tragedy and misery for so many.

I appreciate that the issues are as contentious as they are tangled and complicated. But surely the violence must stop. Please -- I beg those who have the power to send these poor souls to their death find new ways to solve their differences. Let there be more weddings and less funerals.....











Thanks for reading ......Layno!!

From Brussels to Baba

 

A Tale of Two Cities

Brussels continues to delight with the twinkling of bright lights and the tempting aroma of chocolate and waffles. It's a city to wander and wonder  -- a city of beauty and brilliance beyond compare!!! The Grand Square is a treat at any time of day but particularly when all the lights are blazing and hundreds of cameras compete to get that perfect image capturing the uncapturable. You see - the magic is in the air.. not the old buildings and fancy restaurants that make up the square. But ahhh - wander through in the early morning hours or after the pubs are closed and you can feel it in your bones.....



My training came to an end after two weeks but not without many wonderful moments and a fair bit of learning as well. The advanced security training course is as dense as it is complicated often requiring long days to convey the vital parts of this messy business. Paradoxically,  we were fortunate to use case studies from real MSF situations and at the same time saddened by those same the MSF case studies so full of misery and tragedy. As an example we used the Kunduz Afghanistan hospital case study where 42 innocent people lost their lives (including MSF Doctors and other staff) as the basis for improving defensive preparations for a facility that may come under fire. To be sure, the Kunduz bombing  by the Americans was from an AC130U gunship and there's not much that can be done to protect against that. Other than those with the weapons of war being held accountable for their use perhaps......
That said, how do you design bunkers -- safe rooms -- and hibernation/evacuation strategies if you do come under fire,.Tricky stuff indeed! While my colleagues and I may look a bit goofy here, it is a serious business taken very seriously by the organization.

The 12 members of the team and an instructor at the Belgium fire prevention training center. Yup - slid down the pole!

Coming back into Nairobi couldn't be a more starkly contrasted experience. While the cities are similar in boasting fancy-assed architecture and all the trappings of a modern city, they are indeed very different places. Where you wander and wonder in Brussels.. you hurry and hide in Nairobi. Where you enjoy beauty and brilliance in Brussels, Nairobi is more about teargas and terror lately.

Beautiful Nairobi at sunset. A modern and beautiful city in so many ways

The Kenya election - or should we say the second election (the first was annulled by the supreme court) is now complete with the votes and body count duly tallied. Many died as this election unfolded with assassinations, intimidation and collateral casualties seeming to be electioneering tactics rather than the cowardly acts of unconscionable men and women. How is it - I wonder, that a city full of well meaning kind-hearted souls can and do resort to such deadly tactics to ensure the process of selecting a government is complete. Just above, newly re-elected President Kenyatta is jubilant in victory with his jubilee party supporters while below, the opposition leader affectionately known as Baba (father in Kiswahili) looks dutifully sad as has been the case since taking on the role of "leader of the opposition" in 2013.

Raila Odinga speaks to the assembled in a somber and dignified manner befitting the funeral-like atmosphere of elections.

Tomorrow, Monday November 6th will be last day for officially filing a legal challenge to the political outcome of this Kenyan election. Many have died and many more were wounded. That is not to mention the psychological trauma and economic damage that also was a massive part of this troubled time. While it may seem that economic damage is a small consideration, the burning of businesses and the loss of income means that people can't eat - or seek treatment for themselves or a sick relative. Then they die too. The "costs" of this election have been steep and one wonders if it could have been different.







The Violence in the streets of Nairobi and Kisumu was horrific without doubt. The embedded link proceeding offers an excellent description of the events on those terrible days. Some say that the people who protested with Pangas (machetes) were in fact armed by the opposition. And that those who fought for the winning side were a group know as the Mungiki. The Mungiki sect are a much feared gang who have the reputation of cutting off one's head or inviting them to Sunday dinner with equal amounts of interest or concern. It was often repeated that if the opposition (NASA) continued to protest in the streets, the Mungiki would be unleashed and all manner of mayhem would result. It may or may not be true, but what is a fact is that the push and pull of power lies well outside meeting rooms and boardrooms in East Africa. The stakes are high, and the outcome more determined by the depths to which one is prepared to sink rather than the strength of the party and candidates. I'm quite sure that the founders of democracy never quite saw it this way.

I have high hopes for Kenya - that being that recent elections characterized by the absence of  honorable conduct, will be a thing of the past. As they say in Kenya; Tembo waki gombana, nyasi ndizo huumia -- when the elephants fight, it's the grass that suffers.















Thanks for reading.....Layno!!!

Languishing in Luxembourg

Has much changed since my grade 4 book report in 1972? 

It was about this postage-sized country that I wrote a school report in 1974. I can remember the finished product with it's beautiful glossy forest green cover and delicious spell of peppermint glue emanating for the carefully selected and placed images within it's pages. I was damned proud of that report and remember thinking about how this small country came to stand so resolute against the giants surrounding. Not only has the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg stood since 1815 --- but has one of the top three GDP's on the planet!!!

It's no small praise to say that this country has managed to build & maintain one of the highest "standards of living" on the planet. And it's certainly not that I agree with $20 hamburgers and $10 pints of beer (I chuckled at the sight of a set steak knives for $600 ) but would say that the orderly state of affairs and a meticulously maintained environment are a pleasant reminder of what people do when they have plenty of dough and time. The parks are beautiful, the streets clean and orderly, museums and concerts free and well attended by those with both an appreciation for the arts and the time to do so.

A classic Luxembourg boutique Hotel. A place where I could stay if I sold all my possessions and lived in a tent thereafter.

From the center of town Notre Dame -- Our Lady of Luxembourg Cathedral beckons seductively with it's tall spires and associated Gothic bits and pieces. Up close and personal it's a fine example from the period with it's high ceilings and stained glass. But more - so much more is the pipe organ on this fine day. Each week -- a different musician is invited to play for the crowds that gather. As if on cue --- he played one of my most favorite pieces -- Bach's Air in G minor. It always makes me a bit weepy for some reason but so too does Puff the magic dragon. I get my sensitivity from my Mom.... definitely not my Dad. :)

 Now these are not your weak and huddled masses of the dark ages-- oh no-- these are a very well healed jet setting milieu straight from the pages of  Vogue and GQ. Though in fairness and with an absence of sarcasm-- appreciative and suitably contemplative. The standing ovation afterwards was enthusiastic but of course we were all standing to start with. The church then emptied as the start of the service - a testament to the times. Gucci beckons.   Air in G minor on a Pipe!

A fantastic pipe organ visually delicious and audibly spectacular!

I also had a chance to take in the Luxembourg Museum of History and enjoyed that very much. I always do :) A couple pieces that caught my eye are beside and below. The wild man on the right, is quite a large piece taken from a family home in the 1800's 300 years after it was commissioned and where it had been placed at the entry to ward off evil spirits. Or better yet -- perhaps to give some idea of the temperament of the occupants. A copy still stands at the house but I loved the idea of this fine fellow guarding the occupants through the nights and days with is fierce look full of danger and drama. And below Jupiter!!!! .... ultimate God of the Roman Pantheon stands stoically below ... one leg missing from all the ass-kicking he's done. Oh yeah Jupiter!!! I think he was a decent MMA guy.

I'm in Belgium for a couple weeks taking an advanced course in security risk management. And yes -- that's risk for people not stuff. It's an intensive two weeks that takes us through scenario after scenario -- learning and re-learning how to analyze the security context/ environment and build mitigation strategies that minimize risk. It's indeed alarming that the number of abductions is exponentially on the rise as rebel groups begin to "export" their abduction expertise and all see it as an easy way to get their hands on cash. The idea of complicated proxy strategy where the would be kidnappers use components of the plan like building blocks -- each "block" unaware of the larger goal and only working for the money.... well it's a frighteningly effective strategy. I can't say more than this in fairness.

 It's our (MSF) daily reality though pleased to say that those who are in charge of this important (maybe the most important) part of our business are seriously fucking smart people. These are leading minds in all aspects of security management dedicated to making sure that MSF continues to access populations in need. All the money in the world won't help if we can't get people to go and help. Hopefully the time will come when humanitarian aid workers are again recognized for the important, independent, impartial and neutral part they play.





A note on last week's post - the day after leaving my beautiful Diani  HSM "Harakat al-Shabaab al-Mujahideen" or more commonly known as Al Shabaab opened fire not far from where I was staying .... killing a civilian and two police officers just as they had done a couple weeks previously. What a shame. Their activities are usually confined to the north coast  (closer to Somalia) though I'm sure the activity now in the south will have the deleterious and premeditated effect of scaring off tourists and the money so desperately needed by the Kenyan people.

Also a quick note on my friend who was so viciously raped and beaten --we'll call her Maria -- is doing very well under the circumstances and expecting to deliver her baby in December.








Thanks for reading.....Layno!!!