Entertained and enthused in Eastern Europe Part 1

 Go East Young Man

 

My view for many hours - note the cool etched glass insignia. 

 

The opportunity to "Go East" comes as a result of my recent retirement rendering the "young man" part of the title phrase far from accurate. And speaking of accuracy, my sense has always been that I viewed and learned about world history primarily through a Western European lens. Truth be told  - I missed much (if not all) of what my history teachers shared due to the far more important task of chasing girls and smoking pot. Hence this trip to the Balkans. In previous posts I've shard my thoughts on Middle East travel and African travel. And having explored Western Europe previously - this seemed to me to be a missing link.

 A few observations along the way and standouts from the first 6 countries I had the pleasure of visiting. 

 

Bulgaria/ Sofia

 

Arriving in Sofia Bulgari from Istanbul, I more or less fell from the train rather than alighting in a sporty and enthusiastic manner. I went 31 hours without eating in a sleeping berth all by my lonesome. I may have miscalculated a bit on preparing. PS - why would there not be food on a train - Grrrr!

My understanding is that both Romanian (according to a violinist I met from Transylvania) and Bulgarians continue to strive to make improvements in their relative economies. Abandoned Communist era equipment was notable as the train crept (with more stops than a sniffaholic Black Labrador on an evening walk) across grain and and sunflower covered fields. 

 As train stations often are - graffiti was the decorating choice of the locals while hard looking fellows smoked conspiratorially in dark corners. Women with a bit more makeup than necessary plied there trade as guests arrived. All in all not a pleasant scene greeting this Enthused traveler. 

The local park improved my "sense" of the city but I made the choice to move on after just a day in Sofia. Catching the bus the next day, I noted that "surly" would be 4 step attitude improvement of the cigarette puffing bus driver and ticketing agent.  The bus swerved along as I watched the bus driver text friends and family while at the same time doing a remarkable job of not hitting other cars or the barrier. Now that is talent!

Serbia/Belgrade

 

 On to Belgrade and a marked improvement in vibe and views. The Carpathian basin is framed by mountains naturally cradling this and some of the surrounding countries. Below are a couple shots from a museum (a painting I loved) and Church. A close relative (I won't say whom but it wasn't my Dada) once remarked about the ABC's of Europe ... meaning Another Bloody Church! Too true and while delighting in the visual extravaganza of Churches, one can wonder and muse about the sheer number of faith based buildings along the way.

 

In once more referencing my recent retirement from the work force, I am asking myself if I'm not getting a bit "long in the tooth" for Hostels and dinners of sausage, cheese, bread and wine. To illustrate that point more clearly - when booking - one has to now review the "house rules" which are beginning to include 45 year old age limits. That caught me off guard and hurt my feelings a bit. Worse!!! There is no seniors discount. 😉

 

  

 

I have to say - though - that hostels continue to be a wonderful way to meet people and share ideas.Time and again I shared my stories and listened to theirs often late into the night. It's a great way to learn about how people feel about the world they are exploring.

However - the communal and trusting nature of hostels is under threat. At one hostel (Vienna) - and on a single day, 2 backpacks and a laptop were taken. That evening I met a really unhappy woman who's food was stolen from the community fridge. A disturbing trend indeed! Some bastard took my food on two occasions. I did however put a hex on them  - and I'm sure Karma will ensure that it all gets sorted out. 👍 

 My overall view of Belgrade would be that is a must see. Safe efficient and best of all - there is no charge for transportation services in the country. 

 

 Hungary/ Budapest

 

My thanks to the Kenya running club who as a pity gesture invited me to join them to run the Budapest Half Marathon. I told my friend JohnG about it and he quickly booked a spot in the race and flew over from Edinburgh to join in. All the Kenyans and particularly JohnG left me in the dust on that day - but I did cross the finish line eventually and enjoyed the sights and sites up and down the Danube. We were joined by 6000 other maniacs who made the questionable life choice to get out of bed at 6am on a Sunday and punish themselves for a couple hours. I'm delighted to have been one of those maniacal sporty buggers.

 

 

That's me 4th from the left

Now about Budapest. Come for the Goulash & Langos  - but stay for the tremendous sights and vibe. 

It's expensive but you do get what you pay for. In particular for me it's the transportation network, technology and  a wonderful sense of vitality. I thought it would be cheap - my mistake. My head was in the sand about Eastern Europe and the transition from a failed economic model that abandoned centralized economic demand/ supply planning. I recall the Berlin wall coming down and it doesn't seem that long ago to me. The days of too much money chasing too few goods are over.

There is an air of enthusiasm and optimism thicker than my Mom's Pea soup. It is a must visit in my view - with many of my hostel mates saying it's their favorite city in all of Europe! What? how about London! Paris - my goodness - the world is a  changing place. I need to get out more. 😕

Poland/ Krakow

 

 

 

I just didn't see myself falling in love with Krakow but like a Mike Tyson upper cut - it came out of nowhere leaving me shocked and surprised. It's the design of this city that amazed me.  Centrally - is one of the largest squares (if not the largest) in Europe. Surrounding that -- in a sort of egg shape, is a thick manicured park dotted with universities, fountains and park benches. The city designers really had forethought when they made these early decisions. The result is a quiet, non-hurried functional space that  encourages people to relax - sit together - and be social. Loved it ... 

Poland/Auschwitz

 

 

The manicured green grass and chirping birds distracts from the ugliness of what lies just inside the walls of Auschwitz which lies 60 kms to the West of Krakow. It was a 6 hour wait to visit the site and worth the wait. Worth it because it was entertaining? No - hardly - it was a heavy, stark and brutal remainder of how humanity can get it so very wrong. The memorial demands your attention and strikes and the very core of your being. I'll not go into more detail and only share a couple pictures below. I would however recommend that people take it in - particularly our youth with a sincere hope that history is never repeated. I'm proud to say that my daughter visited during her high school years and I'm sure it had an impact of the fine young woman she has become.

   

 Czech Republic/ Prague

 

 

 

 

 

There are 3 or 4 major attractions in Prague and they are indeed major. I don't believe the design of the city rivals that of Krakow but Prague certainly does have it's candy. Sites so rich and dripping with beauty you need to wear sunglasses and worry about your blood sugar levels after just an afternoon. Again - it not inexpensive, but like Budapest, rich in history and optimism for the future. 

The National Museum of Czech Republic is the best museum I have visited in my travels. It's a 4 hour romp leaving you with sore feet and ready for lunch but as a friend of mine has pointed out "there's no such thing as culture without a little discomfort" 😁

 Remarkable I think - is that the museum is moving toward a marriage of antiquity and technology. The use of VR and screens with images along side important pieces, allows you to access the information in a more satisfying manner. Especially for those with failing eyesight!

 

 

The National museum of the Czech republic

 

Teacher Grace called me recently asking if I could deliver another 3 months of food. $400 USD feeds 250 kids for 3 months so if you would like to donate to help me feed hungry kids - you can email me to chat about it  -- or do so by sending a few shekels through:

MPESA -- +254745237248 (Kenya)

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com (Canada)

Or PayPal -- Laynemahon@live.com (Global)

50 bucks would really help and no amount is too small or large 😊

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading ... .Layno somewhere in Eastern Europe!!! 

Phascinated in The Philippines & Mad in Malaysia

MALAYSIA

 

While I'm starting the blog with a photo from the Philippines - it's not actually where our trip began. Rather, we started in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia - a city of incredible architecture and commercial beauty. Yes - I said it - commercial beauty. Above -- the breathtakingly natural beauty of The Philippines (and my wife of course) That said, I'm not so much a nature phanatic as to completely discount urban art in all it light color shapes and sound. Kuala Lumpur has all that!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The twin Petronas towers are without doubt as mesmerizing as they are inspiring. The beauty, elegance and creativity make for an absolute treat for the senses. Essie & I sat long and quietly as we pondered the beginnings and inspiration for this incredible feat of engineering and inventiveness. We also sat contently watching the water show in the gardens just behind. I noted that the crowd was mostly Muslin - not surprising given that it was just a couple days past Eid al-Fitr and Muslims make up 65% of the population. It was a cool vibe. Kids ran around excitedly-- parents nursed cups of coffee and pop tunes rang out as the water danced in inexplicable shapes and patterns. I suspect Las Vegas has all that and more - but impressive none the less. As is Malaysia. In studying recent history of the region, it is clear that Lee Kuan Yew, the economic and social architect of nearby super successful Singapore has dragged Malaysia along with it. 

 

 

And speaking of History - I fancied a trip South to Malacca where the Dutch  first landed and set in motion a chain of colonial inspired events that went on to have a monumental impact on the region.

Malacca is delightful combination of the original city and a very modern city with fingers stretching to grasp all the future has to offer.

 

In our first of many travel blunders we located the tallest building with a rooftop bar and ordered up bevies without asking the price. $30 for a beer and Essie's fruity cocktail required me to re-mortgage the house. Worth it though 😀

 

 

 

Below a couple pictures from the Batu Caves - a Hindu temple 272 steps up (36 degrees that day) and then through tunnels into the mercifully cool depths of the mountain.

 

Next and ending our time in Malaysia was a trip to the Island of Langkawi. Sun - great food and beautiful scenery was just what we needed after the admittedly hectic travel schedule and city energy. The bastard who stole my phone (hence mad in Malaysia) should be covered in honey and placed on Fire Ant mound. Theft is thought to be unusual  but it does --  and another phone was bought within a couple hours and the adventure continues. 

 

I want to take a moment here to acknowledge Essie's part in quickly putting the maddening event behind us. She was cool as a cucumber - calm and quickly brainstormed on how to manage flight confirmations/ cash management - all the things that are temporarily disrupted when you lose your phone to some unscrupulous bastard.  She amazes me. Onwards!!

 

Where she was less than supportive was my brilliant idea of staying in a drainage culvert converted to a unique and exciting accommodation - oceanfront!

 

First the view --

 

 

Next local visitors --

And Lastly the Tube itself!!  Just a bed and a view - I'm not sure why she didn't absolutely love it!! 😁

 

 

She was a good sport about being caught in the dark in a monsoon on our scooter. Too late we found these nifty Ponchos. Of course the rain stopped at the same instant I paid for the Ponchos. Ha! That's what made the rain stop. We were so wet, the Gobi Desert called and asked us to come visit.

THE PHILIPPINES

If you don't mind 30-meter clear view snorkeling and pristine beaches - there are 6000 such islands to visit. It's easy here. The sales folks are not overly pushy - and value was great. A full day out visiting 5 islands including a lunch of prawns, cold chicken salads etc. for about $20. I spent so much time snorkeling I started to grow gills and sprout fins. Fabulous.

Super noticeable is the absence of single use plastics and a clear commitment to preserving the pristine nature of the region. well done, Philippines!!! 

A couple beachy shots to make my point... 

MANILA/ PHILIPPINES

Manila is a city of around 15 million people and from my time there would say that it is both thriving and decaying in equal measure.  This schizophrenia is not surprising given the history and geography.  Super interesting is a trip to China town on the Pasig River which appears a part of the city in ruins - decay - failure. The Jeepster on the left is an unmufflered diesel smoke belching monster belonging to another era all together. Alternatively, the other side of town sparkles and glistens with all the modern amenities and trappings. 

 

 

In the less than modern part of the city you can learn about the history by visiting Fort Santiago (Spanish beginnings) which is fascinating and following that the three museums evidencing the convoluted colonial past.  There museums are really well done and!!! Air Conditioned!! 

Museum of Natural History - very exciting!!

I though this statue said it all -artistic but more practical as a place to put your garbage

The not-so-nice part of town 

I added this picture because it's my favorite. " Into the transporter"

And this one below because I think it's funny...there was also a restaurant called Good Kok and I have no idea what was being served in there and didn't check.

Teacher Grace called me recently asking if i could deliver another 3 months of food. $400 USD feeds 250 kids for 3 months so if you would like to donate to help me feed hungry kids - you can email me to chat about it  -- or do so by sending a few shekels through:

MPESA -- +254745237248 (Kenya)

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com (Canada)

Or PayPal -- Laynemahon@live.com (Global)

50 bucks would really help!! 

Many thanks to Barry for his most recent generous donation!!! 

Layno ...nodding off while in transit 😏!!! Thanks for reading.

 

DYB DYB DYB DOB DOB DOB

It's fenced?

 

 

If you've ever read my blog before you'd be painfully aware of my love for motorcycles and adventure. Above is a cheapo bike I rebuilt recently for fun in the neighborhood. Living in the shadow of The Ngong hills (think -- Out of Africa/ Karen Blixen - I once had a farm in the Ngong hills) and living next to a National Park, it's the perfect neighborhood for a motorcycle!!

 

Theoretically the animals are fenced in and the people out. Nonsense - that was clear a couple weeks ago as I came across Zebra Giraffes and Buffalo while out exploring on a dirt road. It's impossible to to keep them separated as you can see by the Lion in the video below helping herself to a 45kg Rottweiler.

I left the park before I met up with that Lion - seemed a good idea...

Lion in the Hood

 

And speaking of Motorcycles and adventure, I recently headed north on the weekend and circled Mount Kenya heading for the fabled Chalbi Desert of Kenya. First it was hot. I mean really really hot. Great for camels - no so good for me or the bike. So hot was it -- that the exhaust pipes on the motorcycle changed color and stayed that way. Second it was sandy - not entirely unexpected in the desert however given a good dose of common sense instilled my my mama - I aborted the mission after the first half kilometer of floundering slipping sliding and sweating. 

Lord Baden Powell

I did continue exploring regardless now searching for the Grave Site of the famous Lord Baden Powell. I had earlier discovered that he had loved Kenya so much that he wanted to be buried here. Like many young people LBP had a big impact on my life. I remember being proud in Cubs to get my sewing badge. Huh!! How on earth did I see that as a worthy and commendable achievement for a 9 year old boy? That said - I can still sew.  😉  I learned to DYB (Do Your Best) and DOB (Do Our Best) and also learned about hanging with friends and having fun. We went on a big camping trip once where there were hundreds of other cubs all dressed in those goofy outfits and passionate about reef knots and badge collections. That was super cool.

In a little town called Nyeri I found the site that was surprisingly small with just a few other long term "guests".  Rather - it was a plot of land surrounded by businesses and residences that had grown up over the years since his passing in 1941. I parted with a bit of cash to get the gates open and pay my respects with the "gate keepers" no doubt curious about this white guy sitting stoically by the grave starring at the symbol on the grave stone all CubScounts came to know ..... going home.

I guess I can legitimately be considered a veteran Triathlete having completed more than 20 in my life - so far. Therefore it was hardly surprising that I was the only competitor in my age group. 😀 All I gotta do is finish this one and I finally have something to show for all my thriathaleting efforts. Yup - I was first in the ultra competitive 60 - 65 category. 

Hanging out with all those fit people who so enthusiastically flung themselves into the Indian Ocean, I was a bit proud. My commitment to fitness over some 25 years had led to this moment.  A tattoo was in order to mark the event with a certain permanence I believed to be the case. 

Will this hurt I asked my new friend Eric the amazing Tattoo Artist. Like a Mother fucker he casually replied. How long? Oh about an hour and a half. I'm such a Dumbass!!

CLEO

Despite a significant disability where her hind legs don't work very well - she continues to inspire me with her pure joy at the smallest things in life. 

Sun is out - her tail wags

Smile at her - her tail wags

A fresh avocado has fallen - her tail wags

She joined for the Triathlon and watching her run joyfully along the beach filled my heart with joy. Her days are numbered buy her spirit will endure continuing to inspire all who are fortunate enough to know or meet her.

Cleo so speedy she leaves a vapor trail like a Jet!!!

The kids at Majengo Slum are back in school on the 6th of Jan and I'd like to bring a load of food in on the 4th of January. Thank you to Els Shilton and Fergus for their very generous and thoughtful donations!!!

If you would like to donate to help me feed hungry kids - you can email me to chat about it  -- or do so by sending a few shekels through:

MPESA -- +254745237248 (Kenya)

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com (Canada)

Or PayPal -- Laynemahon@live.com (Global)

50 bucks would really help!! 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading ..... clearly enjoying cycling  -- Layno!!