Egypt: Sand Surf and Summits

Mt Sinai and the Red Sea

 

 

Perched precariously on various slabs and outcroppings our group of 7 delighted in Mother Nature's early morning light show from the top of Mount Sinai. We started our ascent at midnight and arrived just in time to see the first lightening of the sky and the fantastic display that followed. It's as barren and rocky a place as I've ever seen, but as my hiking boots found each step in the glow of my headlamp, I thought deeply about those who had, and those who had reportedly climbed the mountain before my attempt. I guess Moses was probably the hiker with the most notoriety and little did he know that just a simple day hike would turn into something much bigger. And I wonder if he properly noted the 10 commandments when they were given to him. Did he take notes? I can't remember 5 items for the grocery mart but I'll grant that he must have got it right as they are still around after a fair amount of time.  Pictured to the left is Fredrick who I'd met in Abu Simbel and reunited with at Dahab (The village where we based). I love his look of thoughtful contemplation as the 7 of us shared the morning sunrise together. A really cool character out to see the world and at a young age, a surprising amount of it already seen.

 

The sunrise was perhaps the most spectacular I've ever seen. The first shot is looking East where the sun was rising in magnificent orange yellow and blue....and at the same time lighting the West with delicate shades of pink, purple and blue. Now I see why Moses tramped up here in the first place. It's definitely worth the hike!

Once down and back at Dahab, the group went for lunch in a restaurant by the sea. None of the restaurants have walls...just a roof to keep the sun out... rain never being a problem. As usual, we sat on cushions on the ground while we ate and chatted. Afterward... most just laid out on the cushions and had a sleep. While a bit unusual in North American, not at all uncommon where the temperatures are almost always 30 or more and life more casual. How very civilized I thought...... Pictured here is a typical  "Egyptian breakfast"of beans, pita bread, goat cheese, falafels, babaganouche, an egg, fries...and a couple veggies just for he hell of it. All for about $2. Sadly and feeling slightly foolish I recalled a breakfast in New York once where I spent over $30 for less.....hmmmmmm.

I had come to Dahab to relax a bit and enjoy the last days of my vacation. Mmmmm -  reading, eating fresh fish, drinking cold beer and swimming in the sun-drenched Red Sea. It's located on the East side of the Sinai pizza slice and looks across to Saudi Arabia and just north Jordan and Israel. The village more than kept up with it's reputation of being cheap, laid back and beautiful. And if that's not enough, nearby is the famous blue hole, arguably one of the top diving sites in the world.

Again and unfortunately, there were few tourists here to enjoy the endless sun and sand. All of Egypt is suffering from traveler's concerns about safety and understandably so. Sharm el-Sheikh only 75 kms south was the site where in 2005, 88 people died as the result of politically motivated bombing. Abdullah Azzam Brigades, an Al Qaeda affiliated terrorist group claimed responsibility and reported their goal was to disrupt tourism. They were aided by the local Bedouin which will likely divide that community for many many years to come. Disrupt they did indeed!

Clearly, they were very effective. Sharm el-Sheikh is a more "refined" destination with more 5-start hotels and far fewer hostels than Dahab, but does not have the Blue hole. I stayed in a hostel for $10 per night and shared a bathroom with other travelers.Not a large price to pay for a fun spirited lively experience. 7th Heaven as it's called and is close to - was busy with perhaps 75 people hanging around. It offers the PADI dive school and many other water sports related activities. For $5 per day, you can rent quality snorkeling gear and literally hit the reef right across the street. I started my snorkeling adventure there but headed for the Blue Hole the following day.

I caught a pickup truck out to the Blue hole which you can quite clearly see in the photo above. That's it! From above the water, the landscape it unremarkable. Nothing is growing, it's fucking hot hot hot and sand is everywhere. But once you dip under the waves - well my friends - that is something entirely different. The world explodes in color and motion. Everywhere you look there are more and more fishies! The color size and variety limitless. At times I thought I could see 5000 fish in my view and of course the water is clear for 30 meters or more...and because of the salty Red Sea you bob on top like a barrel...allowing you to just float along and be part of this amazing underwater garden. I was in the water for hours that day...never tiring of a scene that refreshed constantly. The coral, mostly in sgades of blue.. from navy to turquoise is a perfect back drop for dish that are so magnificently colored they defy imagination.

I shared a pickup with Sherif and his friends on the way to the hole. Sherif reminds me of a Prince or royalty of some kind. He immediately made me feel comfortable with the group and was generous and thoughtful for that day and the one's that followed as well ran into one another from time to time. If the future of Egypt is young men like Sherif - Egypt is in good hands indeed.

I came away with the realization that coral reefs and the variety and abundance of sea life  are incredibly important to humanity. Snorkeling the Blue hole is like coming across Mother Nature's hidden stash of treasures. It needs to be protected and given our attention. I saw a group of people walking on the top of coral taking selfies.... while breaking off chunks as they walked and searched for another position to pose. Their lack of awareness was puzzling and frustrating at the same time. They really didn't understand the damage they are doing though in my view they clearly should. Maybe installation of a common sense meter at the entrance to the region would help.... though I wonder if I would have made it through having selected August as the time to visit Egypt!!!

The two girls pictured above jumped into the pickup as we made our way back to the village. I had seen them during the day selling wrist bracelets to tourists and doing so with smiles and giggles for no additional charge. Their incessant giggling continued all the way to the village and I suspect well into the evening. They are happy and while likely have few material goods, I found myself envious of their free spirit and careless joy. It was a  moment to ponder the  "struggles" we face in North America.

And above  - yet another character who I enjoyed talking with. Astride his pride and joy...he is the man! Cool confident and pride of ownership obvious in his eagerness to pose for a shot and explain the details of his Jawa 350 2 stroke.We shared a love of motorcycles which broke through the Arabic/English language barrier as we talked easily enough about this beautiful machine. 

Thanks for reading Layno