Egypt: Dessert in the Desert

Sand & sun for days!!!!!

I have been really looking forward  to a desert experience but the transport to and from was not an experience I enjoyed or would like to repeat. 15 people stuffed a 14 passenger van and a driver who ignored my requests to please stop texting instead (not while) of driving... while we continued to careen along at120 kph. The road across the Western Dessert -  is relatively good....and very straight...tempting many drivers to "do other things" while they travel. In frustration I called the man who had arranged for the transport and he agreed to call and ask that Fernando Alonso slow down and pay more attention... which he did...thank Allah in this case.

Also a bit disconcerting is the windows covered in black material to try to keep the sun out and help the overworked air conditioner compete against the intensity of the 40+ degree heat. It was something to be endured... like a root canal. The scenery changes little. Sand sand sand....and then sand. Best not to have a mechanical breakdown at this point.... while there is traffic I have the sense it's bit lawless and each person is on their own in the event of trouble. It's  a harsh land.

We arrived at the  Bahariya Oasis after traveling west half the distance across Egypt toward the Libyan border. It's a fascinating experience to go from dusty dry and hot to water gushing from the earth providing trees and all important shade. It's green everywhere you look. Agriculture is the the main industry and as you can see dates figure largely in the region. My first great date. hehe

We stopped for a dip at the water collection point shown here on the left. The water then travels throughout the Oasis in ditches or troughs along the way. The water is cool and refreshing. Imagine trekking across the hot desert and coming up to the Oasis. On the right we stopped to pick a few dates. While traditionally I have never been a big fan of dates... I loved them fresh off the tree. Once ripe - they are available for months dry on the tree. The season was early so they were only partially ripe but there are thousands and thousands. Fig Newton anyone? My first dessert in the desert. :)

The black desert interesting in black and tan but uninspiring. No charisma or pizazz!

We had lunch with a Bedouin family at the Oasis and talked and ate for a couple hours. Sitting on the floor (on cushions) and eating very basic food...great chunks of camel meat and boiled vegetables with rice. A simple but delicious offering from a family who had lived in the desert forever. They have descended from their nomadic forefathers and knew little of the outside world until the 1970's when paved roads connected this odd part of the world. Electricity and Facebook followed shortly after that. I have learned that I like sitting on the floor and eating...then lounging... very civilized and something I can definitely get used to....we then had a snooze kidogo (small) hehe.

Cyrus in the black VX Land Cruiser pictured here now took responsibility for the journey out into the desert off-road style. The trip would take us another 100 kms over the desert where we would then sleep overnight under the stars. The Land Cruiser is well equipped and capable of  handling the harsh demands of the journey ahead. I have done my fair share of  off-road adventure in a Land Cruiser and as I ran an appraising eye over the unit, I was very impressed with the effort that had gone into ensuring the vehicle was properly prepared.







We visited the black desert first which is about what you would expect... It's pretty, windy and stark. I found it a bit disturbing. There was nothing inspiring or inviting about the landscape. It reminded me of a what a visit to Mars or some other fanciful intergalactic adventure might be like.

I was glad to leave it behind and forge on the the white desert.  The picture at the beginning of the blog is sunset on the white desert. The air is warm and breeze steady. The smell is sweet with a scent that you can't quite define. It's familiar and pleasant but remains unidentifiable.  The temperature quickly fell from about 40c to 25c making life perfectly pleasant. And as dark fell, the desert stayed lit. The moon reflects off the white sand casting a pleasant light all round us. Cyrus set up a wind break and built a fire to cook our dinner of chicken vegetables and rice. Dinner complete and thoroughly enjoyed, he prepared a pot of thick black tea and mint with enough sugar to stand up your spoon.  My teeth still ache! This we sipped for hours and talked about the desert, the history, the way of life and life in general.

Soon a number of desert foxes came to visit though more likely for the chicken bones to which they helped themselves. The size of a medium house cat, they were skittish but fairly brave as they came in close and sniffed us... one layed down on my sleeping bag I think finding it a welcome change from sand.

I asked Cyrus about the possibility of snakes and scorpions to which he scoffed anf vehemently denied the existence of.... hmm it didn't explain the tracks in the morning but I didn't wake up with company in my sleeping bag.....and that's the main thing.

Even though the day was long, and we had sat around the fire until very late ruining our teeth, sleep didn't come easily. And as the moon finally slipped away, it was replaced by a billion and 14 stars. I highly recommend a trip to the desert. It's an easy place to think where it's  quiet, peaceful and comfortable. Dessert in the desert.

Thanks for reading - Layno