Where the sun just kinda falls into the sea.....
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| One of 6 amazing sunsets on the beach in Zanzibar |
Years ago I applied for a summer job planting trees in the BC interior. While doing so, I met the half mad HR guy named Potsey who worked part time as the leader of his own political party of 1. The cause he declared with a passion I will never forget, is to change the world by not taking ourselves so seriously. "Ahhh" I said, taking in his wild outfit hair and stare. "And why call the company Zanzibar" was my next question. "Well" he said with great ceremony "because it's named after the best place on earth- excellent question," he exclaimed, "you have the job"!!!
I never really believed Potsey's claim about Zanzibar but when the opportunity to visit presented itself, I just had to see for myself.
The first stop after a 14 hour bus ride through the Pineapple carpeted plains of central Tanzania is Dar es Salam. Arguably one of the sexiest most exotic names for a city that unfortunately is neither of those things. It's a typical port city more industrial and mechanized than commercial and pedestrian. It also doesn't feel nor is it safe given the stories I heard and the look of the town. With each alcove and corner occupied with dubious looking characters, the trash and broken bits littering the streets, it's not easy to feel that there are people who care about what happens to an accidental tourist wandering the streets. It reminded me of Lima, Peru and where Lima has benefited from a defined downtown that is tidied and policed to ensure the safety of visitors and citizens. Dar could benefit from the same.
At the same time and as show in the accompanying picture, there is a lot of construction that seems both ambitions and superfluous. I got the sense that it was investment money driven by tax opportunity and safe haven rather that private sector rushing to fill the need. The election will take place later this month and it looks as though the CCM party who have governed since independence (1961) will continue to do so. All is well in Tanzania as long as the world to continues to provide the majority of the funding for the budget.....
Zanzibar "The greatest place on Earth"
And then a short trip on a fast ferry to the island of Zanzibar, the greatest place on earth! One can't help wonder why a busy loud and unsightly sea port occupies the left hand side of the ferry slip pulls in but if you look to the right....well.......it is indeed beautiful sight. The Indian ocean warm and clear covers the white sand while the coconut trees and Jacaranda beckon seductively like a lingerie-clad lover with a PB&J sammy on white watching a world cup soccer game. Like heaven on earth!!
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| This is actually Prison Island (due to the prison on it...duh) and one of many islands surrounding Zanzi. |
The Island is home to these really big and old turtles. The oldest on the team was 209 years old and weighed around 200 kg. As ugly as they are lethargic, you could also say that they are ancient and graceful but I found myself only sightly curious about the big fellas. There are at least a hundred on the island and I didn't feel the need to pet or hug as many others did. An excellent door stop but likely don't make great pets....I hear they will fetch but you may have expired by the time they return. So pointless really. More interesting to me was what is under the surface of the sea!!!!! Snorkeling was next!
First.....snorkeling is fascinating and you'll be doing it for a while once you get started so put a shirt on so you don't burn your back... So obvious and of course I would never do something so stupid...Now onto the fantastic carnival of color beneath the waves. Yellows and blues...like all manner butterflies only infinitely more graceful. The fish were everywhere including puffers and yellow discuss fish that were so bright you thought they must have LED lights on them. I checked, but I couldn't see where the batteries went. The best was this massive school of fish the size of a leaf from a fig tree that were white when swimming away and then shimmering green when passing in front. It was so shockingly beautiful that I gasped, messed up my snorkel and drank a bunch of the Indian Ocean.
Stonetown is the city on the island of Zanzibar and is where most of the 1.3 million folks live. As a UNESCO world heritage site it offers a beautiful rare glimpse into its Western European and Arabic roots through the remnants of architectural flotsam and jetsam in the narrow alley that criss-cross the city. The alleys are not wide enough for cars to travel through so it remains a pedestrian/scooter zone with shops and small homes lining the way. 
The slave trade is a significant and offensive part of the history of the Island. And so I necessarily have to take issue with Potsey and his claims about the island. While the natural beauty is undeniable, a visit to the slave trade market and a read through the descriptions of the horrors and I could not help being overcome by thinking of my ancestors and the flimsy justification made for this barbaric behavior.
The waterfront in Stonetown
The waterfront park with it's nightly seafood street food extravaganza and coffee shops is a perfect place to watch the locals (It's 99% Muslim) socialize dressed in amazing colored and sequined Hijabs and Kaftans. The boys rule the dock performing death-defying flips and dives in to the water many meters below. But best is that sunset where everyone takes a moment to watch it silently and dramatically slip into the ocean.
All the above noted, there's nothing like a motorcycle to get you out and about to see what the island and get a feel for the place. I traveled the length width and every little trail to the beach I could find on the 50 kms of island. Fishing villages and deserted coves were visual feasts for me as I explored every nook and cranny. The local police took some issue with my "exploring" pulling me over 7x that day each time hoping to work out a "friendly/friendly" exchange of 100USD. I managed to chat my way through each exchange leaving with well wishes and their suggestions for great places to visit up ahead. It's just the way it is.... |
| The boats(there are hundreds like this) head out each day at about 4pm and anchor on the horizon. At midnight the lights come on and they fish until morning arriving at the dock with their fresh catches of all manner of seafood. |
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| The days catch fresh and colorful.... |
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| Another little cove on what is close to the most beautiful place on earth. Sorry Potsy..... |
Thanks for reading -Layno!!!!!
