Adventure above 5000 meters.

Hmmmm- It looks big......and far

So Kilimanjaro is "in the books" as they say and after 6 days of traipsing around the mountain (4 up 2 down)  - I have to say that it was not what I expected. It was both intense and relaxed at the same time. With lots of time spent acclimatizing, it was then a chance to meet people from all over the world. Each with their "why story" and their expectations for the climb. I honestly thought it was going to be pretty easy but the closer we got to summit, the more I realized that it was a much tougher challenge than I had expected. The stories of failure had started to be told....

The climb starts out in lush jungle and is pretty gentle on the old body as you climb along. Tanzania, in this region is home to zillions of banana trees and other big leafy trees. In 30 degree weather you walk along with monkeys in the trees and the birds playfully chirping and hopping all around you. The porters, cooks, guides and other associated support team members do an amazing job moving everything from camp to camp. It a tough job just climbing but these hard-working souls have all the gear to carry as well. I can't thank them enough for their support and encouragement. They are superstars!!!

Andy and I at the first camp...no biggie!!

Over the next days the vegetation thins and eventually disappears altogether though replaced with astonishing vistas of the peaks and valley floor. The temperature falls slowly at first and then quite dramatically as you approach base camp. 

One day is spent just going up 700m and then coming back down to the camp. It's a long day but necessary as your body needs to adjust to the thinning air and the associated changes within. At this point you start to hear the first concerns about headaches and nausea.

 

That's me on the right pictured at Kibo base camp (4.7k meters)...and this is where things get really interesting. It's now cold; surprisingly cold and that's coming from a Canadian boy. I'm having trouble keeping warm and find myself in the down sleeping bag with all gear on to stop from shaking. It's a combination of being tired, not eating well enough and the excitement of the imminent summit attempt. 

And by now, the evidence of the real challenge has been laid bare. Many people are vomiting or just holding their heads in their hands looking defeated. No one wants to give up at this point as the peak is just ahead. There are also many stories of people easily making it but for those affected by the altitude - it's anything but fun. The huts resemble mini-pharmacies as climbers try to find the right combos of Diamox and painkillers to brighten the future.

For me, I'm better off than some but not as good as many. My stomach is turning and my insides are decidedly quite unhappy with the trip in general. A visit to the squat toilets almost finishes me but I hang on to my lunch and try to stay warm.

At dinner we get the news that of the 7 in our group, we will be splitting up to ensure greater success of summiting. The lead guide Tiger, delivers the news to a sober and disappointed group. The fact that we won't summit together comes as a shock but he reasons that the cold is intense (as low as -25) and the slower members of the group will not be able to rest along the way. He'd rather wait until 2:30am for the slower members so that the sun will be out to warm them up if they are having trouble. He reasons that they can just take their time once the sun breaks without worry of hypothermia.  Tiger's constant coaching is a big part of the journey. Without strong capable guides, it would be very challenging to make summit.

Mary, Andy and I were chosen to depart at midnight with a goal of summiting at 6am. I was glad to hear I'd been chosen as part of the lead group but still disappointed that it had worked out this way after what we had all worked through together. 

We huddled in our sleeping bags half sleeping but more thinking about the 11pm start. That time came quickly and suddenly we were up doing last minute preparation. It was intensely cold, and my tummy was not any happier. Breakfast was a solid "nope"! Equally disappointing was the dull throbbing headache that consumed my focus. This next 1.4k vertical meters was going to be tough. 

With a full moon and fresh snow we didn't need our headlamps though other teams elected to use them. Looking back toward base camp was the eerie scene of the headlights in a row moving slowly up and down. For me, this was the toughest physical challenge I had faced. My water bottles froze almost immediately as I stupidly forgot to insulate them before leaving. My throat ached and I was sweating and freezing at the same time. Each step brought with it another stomach wrenching moment as we continued along. We took a number of 2 or 3 minute breaks and when time to go was called, it seemed like an impossible task to get up and move. And I was falling asleep as I walked...there is so little oxygen that the body just wants to shut down...it's a very odd feeling.

Here's a link to a short clip describing the feeling at the time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfLeX8y21rU&feature=youtu.be

OK - so contrast that with the guides (one at the back one in the front) who had smokes, sang and danced during the breaks.....I wanted to strangle them both. :)

Mary, Andy and I summited at 5:36, 25 minutes ahead of schedule and got to see the full sunrise. Well equipped with a bottle of good Cognac, we rejoiced as mother earth graced us with a staggering display of welcoming light that I will never ever forget. The air warmed quickly and the struggle was forgotten as we bathed in the beauty and warmth of the sun and our accomplishment.

Mary enjoys the first morning light at almost 6,0000 meters (19,500 ft) moments after summitting

Andy hangs happily from the sign!

Full moon still out...I look tired but happy.

We stayed and enjoyed the feeling for the next 30 mins or so and then all too suddenly and soon it was time to go. Happy and elated we worked our way back down the face and as we continued down expected to see the rest of our group just behind us.

 I first came across the Irish Girls first(Joeleen and Darshna) who are a couple we had spent time with and really enjoyed. As I looked at Joeleen I was quite concerned by what I saw. She reached for me and hugged me hard mumbling that she would make it. I really wasn't sure but wished these 2 brave young women well (they both would summit but not easily). We came across the rest of our group much farther down the mountain. It was clear that things had not gone well. Molio, another team member continued on to the top on her own but the other 3 members of the team had to be taken down to the bottom by ambulance and taken to hospital where they remained for the next 2 days. Molio bravely struggled to the top but did not reach camp until 11 pm that night. She walked for an astonishing 21 hours to make summit and get back to base. She too was driven down  to the entry gate far to tired and sore to make the descent.

In all it was a great feeling of accomplishment and comradely but best may be the 5 star hotel afterwards in the town of Arusha (site of the International Criminal Tribunal for  Rwandan Genocide - more on this later). We stank, we were dirty, and we were bearded but accepted in to enjoy a hot shower, a decent cappuccino and a warm bed.

The Arusha Palace Hotel.... Niiiiiiice!!!!

Thanks for reading - Layno!