A protest? What's it like anyway?

 

 

It's about 8:22 am 2 days after rioting in Kenya. Responsible for the security of some 2000 staff, I think about the newest piece of information that has just been shared.  A pickup truck surrounded by school children carrying a freshly killed young man is touring the the neighborhood.

Ok - I'm thinking now ......  the school children are to prevent the police from firing live bullets -- something that has been going on for 2 days. And the kids are also being used to to dissuade the police from firing teargas, a smell that is now more familiar to me than freshly baked bread.

Now - questions to answer -- why was the young man killed and how much impact will that have as the convoy attempts to garner sympathy and support. And were are they going. Will there be more bullets flying?

The young man was killed along with 2 others (apparently) as they tried to steal steel from the railway station down the road. The stations' building material was 'made available' from the chaos 2 days earlier. The convoy is likely headed to the police station next to our facility in an attempt to send a "see what you did now" message.

"What are we doing Layne" -- ask a couple of team members.

The threat seems mild but still -- 

Ok - let's hold all incoming staff vehicles. Tell them all to shelter in place. Get on the group application and tell them to move to a gas station or other safe place and wait for permission to enter the slum. Lock the gates and make sure no one leaves the facility without permission to do so. 

Decision made - now I hope it's the right one.

It wasn't -- the convoy disbanded quickly and the threat evaporated nearly as quickly as it had appeared. Fuck!

This example is one of many that has to be made over the last few days. Historically, the protests have been noisy teargas scented festivals with little violence --  but this last one was different. The good news - no one on our team was hurt. That's the main objective.

However there were 10 dead that have been publicly identified- countless citizens injured - and many more arrested. Thugs and looters quickly took what they could leaving businesses and individuals so much the poorer in terms of stuff and their sense of fairness and personal security. Sadly.

 

On the July 12 protest (this is about the 6th over a number of months)  I would like to share my own experience.

We held team members in one of our depots from 16:00 to 17:30 due to the teargas and sounds of gunfire all around us. Intel I received at 17:00 was;

• Gunshots are blanks to disperse crowds
• Street are clear to the main exits of the slum
• Passersby are not in danger as the protest is directed at police/ Government Institutions
•  The protest is losing momentum quickly and people are heading home
  

Staff released on on their way home, it was time for me to go home.

I had left my motorcycle at home given the possibility of insecurity so I eased the Rav4 out into the slum through our big blue gates. I had had a reconnaissance on the neighborhood done 15 minutes before and had been told that all was clear. All looked well as I moved slowly along the street littered with rocks garbage and discarded clothing. People walked in the center of the street with no thought to the motorcycles whizzing about them. The air thick with the smoke of burning tires and teargas.

 

Squinting through tears and the windshield I saw a man ahead walking toward me carrying a Panga (Machete). As I watched he swung half-heatedly at an old man passing on a bicycle hitting only the handlebars. Suddenly our eyes met and I'll never forget the murderous look in those eyes and the almost zombie-like movement of his body as he moved toward the car. I swerved quickly around him and hit the gas knowing for sure that all was not well. Ahead of me the road closed up with hundreds of people yelling, thicker smoke, more fires  and rocks flying.

A note on throwing stones. Somehow when I think of throwing stones, my mind travels to skipping stones on a pond ... not the fist sized boulders that are used in a protest like this one. This was a wake-up call for me.

I suddenly realized that I wouldn't make to the turn ahead. The road was completely blocked and closing in behind me. Many of the crowd turned to look at my panic stricken expression. Many started shouted warning and hurried instructions to get me turned around and moving away from the fighting. I'm very thankful for their assistance.

A side street was clear so I made the turn and crept along as people funneled around me. If I hit someone it will be a very very bad situation indeed. It's incredible how strong the temptation to just hit the gas at a time like that can be. Horn honking and moving slowly I was closer to peeing my pants than anytime since I was 7. At the end of the road there is a turn to the right. Having made it that far I thought I was in the clear. The photo below is not mine - nor are the ones above, but the one below was similar to what was ahead of me as I turned that corner. Fuck!

 

 

 

Four tires burned in front of me blocking the road completely. A truck passed me as I viewed the road ahead. I watched fascinated as the truck drove directly through the flames careening wildly over and around the bricks and rocks on the road. A car coming toward me was swerving wildly driving over the big bricks, the car clearly damaged from that fear-driven journey

I hit the gar and drove through the fire and into the boulder field. All those years of playing Gameboy Tetris paid off as I saw a path ahead. Into a shallow ditch - parking lot - more burning tires -- I was getting there. At one point rocks stopped the car. I tried to work around but I was stopped and getting out of the car was not an option. A man suddenly ran over and pushed the boulder out of the way. Another kind soul. Just ahead power lines were across the road with the pole leaning precariously. No choice. The lines miraculously slide over and around the car as I came to another intersection. On my right, the protest was raging and a police anti riot squad blocked my path. Hand on the horn I continued forward and they parted to let me pass. The look of complete terror likely persuaded them to do so. Lastly in an act of divine intervention 1 Layne got to the 4 lane highway. It was strewn with cars crisscrossed moving in all directions even though it was a one way road. Complete Chaos. 

I made it through and later stopped to wipe the pee off the seat 😉 That was a bit too close even for a fairly adventurous soul like myself.

There are more protests planned for next week. I think I'll bring a sleeping bag and bag or 2 of Doritos and a few KitKats.

As a reminder - I support hungry kids in the slum and if you want to donate - I will not spend the money on Doritos or Kit Kat Bars

If you would like to donate - you can email me to chat about it or do so through:

MPESA -- +254745237248 (Local)

Pay Pal -- laynegmahon@gmail.com (International)

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com (Canada)

 

 

Thanks for reading....Layno somewhere along The Great Rift Valley!!!

I

 

Only the sky was dark and brooding

Sometimes in life the journey is the destination. I'm of two minds on that philosophy. 

First - let's say this. The idea of riding a motorcycle through the back roads and game trails in South Eastern Kenya is not for everyone - but for me - it is as close to heaven as one can get. Rumor had it that you could leave Nairobi and stay off the paved roads for most of the way to the beautiful Indian Ocean. Improbable in my view, was the risk of bandits, breakdown just as a Lion decided it was lunch time, or just getting lost. Let's give it a try!

While one might think safety or mechanical reliability would be the first consideration. Nope - it's making sure your bummy is comfy for hours upon hours of riding in the hot sun. That said - my first visit was to Njorge in Limuru for a fresh sheep skin. 

He quickly chose the right one and with the skill of a long time sheep skin fabricator -- cut it to fit perfectly with the little sheep leggy parts tucking under my seat. Essie, ever supportive of my adventurous spirit complained bitterly about the smell and made me keep it on the porch. Imagine! Maybe it was a bit too fresh.

Next was to find a way through Amboseli National Park. This required a few phone calls to fellow adventurously enthusiastic travelers and a name and number was provided (Thank you Kamau & Steve).  There would be no signs along the way  - just rough directions and instructions to just "ask the locals". Right - that should do it!

The locals were ever so helpful and the kids happy to assist in the business of guiding this Mzungu (white guy) through their land. Though I felt that my big yellow motorcycle was pretty intrusive juxtaposed alongside mud huts and sand, there was no animosity  - just the warm Kenyan welcome that I have come to enjoy so much.

The next hours were like watching a movie with a sore ass. At one point, half dozen Giraffes ran along beside me with that majestic gallop while at the same time, I carefully negotiated my way through herds of Zebra and Antelope that seemed unconcerned by my travel. 

One sand pit after another threatened to toss me on my face but miraculously I managed to kept the big BMW upright all day. I would say luck rather than skill  - or perhaps divine intervention. Either way - all but my bum enjoyed the ride.

A half eaten buffalo carcass under an endless blue sky caused me to pause for a moment realizing that this is the way it has been here for centuries. Unchanged - undamaged - unadulterated except of course for my motorcycle. There were some twinges of guilt along the way but other than some temporary tracks in the sand  - I left little behind and took only memories.

I passed and waved at a number of Elephants along the way though stopped to say hello to these 3 big amigos. While they seemed glad to see me, at one point I wondered if the flapping ears and head shaking was more than just an enthusiastic welcome to Tsavo National Park. One started to come over to say hello and my thinking is that I was running a bit late anyway so should probably get back on the Cycle and continue my adventure. I think a flat Layno was in the offing and that was best avoided.

Rather than risk getting caught by father darkness in the jungles of Shimba hills, I stopped at a Hotel in place called Voi and called it a night. Dinner was a a very refreshing cold beer and by far the worst Pork Ribs I have ever tasted.  I chuckled to myself as I struggled through this abomination thinking of my Mother who has never eaten ribs with out telling the story of the amazing ribs she and someone named Mary once had in 1961. If only she and Mary were here they could bookend the rib eating experience. The sunrise was amazing -- the food was not. 😝

 After a wonderful early morning ride to South Coast, this little $20 per night beachfront banda was a welcomed sight. Pretty basic and I didn't see Ivanka Trump's name in the guest book, but what more do you really need when a hot shower is the last thing you need when it's 30 degrees all the time.

I've come to know some of the staff at this place (Soul Breeze) and as usual they made me feel very welcome. Njeri in particular has greeted Essie and I numerous times and her unfailingly warm smile is most welcoming. 

I mentioned the Soul Breeze in a previous blog and my good friend Fergus commented "you had me at soul breeze". That comment always comes to mind when I visit. The air smells sweetly, the sounds of the ocean calm my soul and the fresh fish and fruit make for a healthy time of it. And oh yeah - the beer is cold and served by Njeri with a familiar smile.

 

Soul Breeze in the evening. No tuxedo  required!!

No one to the right....

No one to the left!!!

Perfect for a Yoga session and skinny dip. Best no one catch sight of this scantily clad 60 year old.

And Work...

My company continues to do amazing work in Kenya improving health and safety in kitchens throughout the country and globally. Our company M-Gas continues to grow and fast!!

Nairobi remains Heaven and Hell. Torrential rain and protests are the country's constant companions lately making it challenging for us to save the world. Protests usually mean shutting down much of our operations as we are mostly in the informal settlements where Tear Gas and a Molotov cocktails are more common than political chants like  "Aye Yo Aye yo -- please make change or Go"

 

 

 

 

 

 .... a note on Cleo the insufferably happy loving Labish dog. She continues to amaze me with a generosity of love and kindness that are a lesson to me daily. How is it that dogs can rise to such maturity while some amongst  us humans cannot. Myself included - ahem!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Majengo Kids

Yesterday,
due to the generosity of those who have supported this project, we brought in the following;

• Rice 100kg
• Cow Peas 100kg
• Cooking Oil 20L
• Corn Flour 40kg
• Wheat flour 40kg
• 240 Cookie packages (Cookies are critical to good health) 😊

 

A big thanks to Joy and her team for putting the order together for us. Her assistant doesn't look that impressed. Not a morning guy maybe.

 

 

 A colleague from work who is interning with our company was good enough to come along and lend a helping hand. I made sure he lifted all the heavy stuff. Thanks Adam. My back appreciates the help!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I've got an idea and would really appreciate any financial support for this project. On a recent hike to the Ngong Hills I was struck by the amount of garbage (mostly glucose wrappers) along the trail. Why do we litter in beautiful places? And how can we impact the environment in a more positive way?

Let's start with kids!! My project is to ask the Malezi school senior class to write an essay explaining the importance of environmental stewardship. The essays will be evaluated and the top 12 kids will go on a hike in the hills boasting a picnic lunch AND 1 cent/bob for every piece of garbage they collect.

 

The budget is around $300 and if you would like to make a contribution to this of the "Just Food Africa" program, I would be most appreciative.

 

 

If you would like to donate - you can email me to chat about it or do so through:

MPESA -- +254745237248 (Local)

Pay Pal -- laynegmahon@gmail.com (International)

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com (Canada)

 

 I loved the ride and my couple of short days on the coast  - so while the journey may be the destination - my bummy would argue that the destination is a much more comfortable holiday. 😊

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading....Layno on my way to a faaaaancy do!!!

 

 

 

 

Respect for Rwenzori

 

Now that's a Birthday!!  

 

With my 60th birthday approaching fast, doing something dramatic and adventurous for a change of pace seemed necessary. And having summited many African peaks - the 3rd highest beckoned as seductively as Dua Lipa in lingerie. Could I stand on the summit as I turned 60? Maybe a bit ambitious and egotistical - but that's kinda how I roll.

First call was to Andy with whom I'd hiked other peaks (Kilimanjaro/ Mt Kenya/ Elgon/ Mt Meru and others over 3500m). Andy said I was crazy and foolish to attempt Mount Stanley in the rainy season and then immediately agreed to join in. Such is Andy's nature. Always up for adventure with a delightful chuckle and a smile.

Next on my list was John with whom I'd formed a wonderful friendship after meeting him climbing rocks near Nairobi. He was likely crazy enough to join I reasoned. On calling John - I learned that he was to be attending a high falootin conference with great food somewhere exotic on those same dates. He declined politely. Very shortly thereafter John called back. "What was I thinking?" he said excitedly "Sign me up for a crazy foolish adventure please". High falootin meetings and good food are easy to find -- crazy foolish adventure is not.

Last to be called was a wonderful man I'd met recently and was relatively new to Kenya. He won't know better I thought. I was both correct and pleased when he quickly added his name to the list. Ryota is an exceptionally gifted human with equal parts of enthusiasm, athleticism and cheerfulness.

Duncan from Xtrym Adventures organized the event and added a couple more bringing the total to six crazy foolish souls ready to attempt the 8-day hike.

Mount Stanley is the highest mountain in the Rwenzori range with Margarita peak reaching into the sky at a heart-stopping 5100m. For the record - there were no cocktails at the top - and I was forced to bring my own. Thank goodness I had the foresight!! ... though a nice fresh Margarita would definitely have hit the spot. 

 

The mountain straddles the Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda and there was a couple things Andy, John & Ryota noted as potential concerns: 

- Ebola is raging in Uganda

- Rebels are said to be popping over uninvited to say hello from neighboring DRC

- There are glaciers to be crossed using equipment we were not super familiar with

- and it will be raining- alot!!

Those were definite concerns - but outweighing those concerns was that it would also be very interesting. As example, we would be hiking within an actual Kingdom -- the mystical Kingdom of Rwenzururu to be precise!!!  The first stop therefore would be to ask the King for directions, tips and tricks. Unfortunately, the King wasn't home at the palace, so I had to settle for a picture at the gates. I note below some fascinating bits about the kingdom.

Rwenzururu Kingdom;

The monarchy occupies the regions of the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda in the southwest.

As a political move by the British colonialists to consolidate the British Uganda Protectorate, by the start of the 20th Century, the Rwenzururu people; the Konjo and the Amba, were forcefully integrated into the Toro kingdom which they initially accepted.

After several attempts in the 1950s to acquire their own administrative district separate from the Toro district, the peoples’ movement declared that they were not part of Toro – 3 month before Uganda’s independence.

Through independence, with the authorities continuing denying them this status, the Konjo and Amba launched a low-intensity guerrilla war calling the armed struggle – Rwenzururu. They declared their own independent monarchy of the Rwenzururu in June 1963.

They continued with the movement and struggle to establish their autonomy facing strong resistance from Toro. They fought on through the 70s and early 80s.

And in a survey carried out, with over 80% of the people in favor of the creation of the monarchy, the kingdom of the Rwenzururu was finally endorsed as a cultural institution in March of 2008.

 

 

 

Intrepid and excited we hit the trail for 3 long wet days of jungle trekking. "You'll need rubber boots for one of the days" the organizer Duncan had told us. After 7 days of mud and boots I had run out of curse words for my friend Duncan. Ponchos and rubber boots ruled the days.

 

At the same time - wild Chimpanzees called out to one another in the distance-- the magnificent Rwenzori hawk slipped quietly between the trees. At one point, as we trekked along a large Colobus monkey tracked out progress suspicious of our motives. He finally lost interest though perhaps scared off listening to my cursing Duncan. 

 

 

 

 

 

 Summit day came up quicker than Max Verstappen on Lewis Hamilton at an F1 race. We were all quiet as we set off in a gentle rain at 3am. Little did we know it would be a full 24 hours before we returned to our down-filled sleeping bags and hot water bottles. 

To say it was tough would be an understatement. The first hours were gumboots and headlamps through bog and later working our way up the rocks scattered throughout some small streams. The red line below is similar to the path we took to the summit.

 

 

 

Four hours into the hike we traded our much-despised gumboots for our hiking boots and climbing harnesses. The next hours were spent negotiating one pitch after another with each becoming a bit more slippery as we moved higher on the mountain. 

 

 

The glacier was soon just in front of us and we slipped into our crampons and tied off to one another. The next couple hours were slow and steady though terrifying as we made our way close to the granite face and the crevasse that appeared to have no bottom. the 10 meter long ice bridge was less than a half meter wide and my thought was that sliding off the ridge would not be nearly as exciting as my many snowboarding adventures. Of course I had the others tied to me just in case. Hmm I thought at one point .... wouldn't I just pull them down with me?  Best to cross that ice bridge when I come to it. Hehe

 

As always, the summit was as wonderful as the brandy passed round to celebrate the accomplishment. My 60th birthday now celebrated - it was time to go back down. Dark was fast approaching, and the next 9 hours would be as cold as they were dangerous. We slipped and fell many times as we steadily worked our way down worrying all the time that the next step would be a slip and broken leg. Ironically - while we all made it down safely -- I somehow managed to twist my leg getting off the airport shuttle as we arrived from the plane. Go figure.

 

 

 

 And now M-Gas !!!

The M-Gas team proudly opens 1 of 22 new depots in Nairobi!!! 

 

My newest role in Kenya is working with a company that provides propane gas to low-income families. Almost all our work is in the slums of Nairobi where we provide access to cleaner cooking solutions (rather than wood or charcoal). The trick is a meter that functions like a transit pass. You load the money onto the card - and simply pay as you go. This allows low-income families to access LPG without the heavy financial burden of buying the cylinder and 13kgs of gas all at a go. 

We provide the stove and cylinder at no charge and the rest is pure magic. In a very short couple of years, we have added 350000 households onto the program. I'm really pleased to be helping low-income families and of course make an environmental difference as families can make better environment choices. The use of charcoal is an inexorable scourge. The health and welfare of both the people who use it, and the planet are at risk. 

As my brilliant Mom always says - "Environmental consciousness is a privilege of the wealthy". True - but maybe that is changing.

 

Cleopatra 

Or simply Cleo -- was supposed to be a Black Labrador retriever but as she has grown (now 7 months) it is becoming more and more obvious that she is anything but. Delightful? - oh yeah!!  Curious? - you bet!!! -- but if you throw a ball for her to chase the look of scorn and derision seems to say, "you threw it you get it". Not very Lab-like. More princess than dog really.

 

 

 

 

 

That said she loved my son Jake who stopped in for a visit from South Africa where he is now taking that country by storm. And not surprisingly - he's a fine young man who turned out honorable, decent and cheerful despite my parenting. Is there a handbook now?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 He's now also living in Africa though slightly south in Cape Town. It was cool to see him as a young man making his way. Life is beautiful nést pas? 

And as a particularly convenient segue that ties my request for cashola with my son's decency; he correctly predicted the score and won the cash pot after watching the World Cup in a local bar. He then turned to me and said, "use this is for the kids Dad". Though inwardly melting I replied with a simple "cool" and "thank you".

Just Food Africa

Below are the cake-faced PP2 kids just recently graduated and going into Grade1. How exciting!! I love (x 1 million) the smile on the boy's face at the right. Together, through our donations we helped to bring this smile to that boy's face. Thank you for that. Very cool!!

 

 

 

 

Grace and teacher stand proudly with the kids who display their certificates confident and excited about their future at Malezi school. The slum stretching out in the background reminds me that it not where you're from that matters. It's where you're going that's most important.

As an historical reminder, Andy and I (pictured above), and others developed a computer literacy program about 5 years ago. That program led another organization to step in and install 25 desktop computers for the kids, this has made a huge difference in these kid's lives. 

We continue to find ways to support the kids and the school. For the past 4 years - I request and receive funds from generous souls with a bit of spare cash ($50 helps a lot) with which I purchase food and take it to the Majengo slum where Grace does her magic at the Malezi school. The food is bought at competitive market prices (not United Nations inflated pricing 😝) and delivered by me. There is no administration charge or single malt scotch for me. It all goes to the kids.

If you would like to donate - you can email me to chat about it or do so through:

MPESA -- +254745237248

Pay Pal -- laynegmahon@gmail.com

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com

 

 

Thanks for reading ..... Layno riding the Ngong hills!!! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nevertheless Navigating New York

 

 

A Covid Christmas to remember 

 

 

  

 

I can't say that I was surprised by the heaps of Covid infected souls surrounding me as I navigated the streets of the city that never sleeps. Like a deer in the headlights of an onrushing car -- my travel plans put me in straight into the center of that Omicron Covid mess along with 10 million others people doing the best they could during Christmas in NYC. Nevertheless, I navigated New York. Cancelling Christmas was unthinkable as I was really looking forward to spending time with Family in snowy Vermont. 

The reality became a myth as NYC was definitely sleeping on the 5 nights I was there. The subways were quiet - the streets barely bustling - and the Rockefeller tree not quite a twinkly. I didn't even have to line up for coffee at the Times Square Starbucks. What?? 

 Everyone on the subway wore a mask but as you can see in the pix above, folks were a bit more cavalier on the streets. In retrospect - I think that did not help. I understand 1 in 25 New Yorkers had Covid when I left in late December.

 

 

 

No Ordinary Pie

 

 

 

 

In my quest for amazing pizza, I canvassed hostel staff, friends (thanks Carla) and other New Yorkers. The name John's in "The Village" came up again and again so on a very cold windy night I made my way to "The Village" for a pie. A 40 minute lineup greeted me at John's and as I stood there shivering I marveled at the will of people to withstand so much discomfort for a good pie. I felt immensely proud to be among true believers!! 

The Grinch with a cattle probe and bull whip couldn't have gotten more diners into John's as I eventually squeezed into  a seat and ordered the medium sausage asiago cheese and basil pie. Equally necessary was a pint or two of their nice cold IPA from a not surprisingly generous selection. The combo was truly delicious. So too was the atmosphere that while chaotic was also somehow comforting. Truth be told -- I don't like eating alone - but do really enjoy eating so what's a boy to do? John's was comfy. Slightly less comfy was the bill for $70 Canadian for two beer and a medium pie. WTF I thought?  Mind you -- this was no ordinary Pie 😋

 

 

 A perfect place for Christmas

 

 

 

I can't thank my brother and his wife enough for a wonderful Christmas in Vermont. No matter where you looked, there is yet another postcard/ Christmas card view to enjoy. The smell of wood smoke and the twinkling lights reflecting in the snow gives rise to feelings of comfort and joy. Mind you - it was a bit cool for a guy who generally lives in 20C+ degree weather but nevertheless it was fabulous (*note to self -buy warmer coat) 

 

A hot fire and snow piled outside the cabin made for a warm and cheery time and an opportunity to reconnect with my "little" bother. I've always been proud the the thoroughly decent man he has always been but even prouder of the man he has become. His patience and generosity have few boundaries and his pleasant disposition seems to rub off a bit on all the people he meets. Thanks brother John!!!

 

 

 

 

Skiing at Mount Snow (great name) in South Western Vermont. Very pretty!

 

 

 Another Semester for Jake

 

 

 

 

 

This coming week will see young Jake going back to school for another semester at Le Pic to do a bit of learnin'. Yvonne & Jake are extremely thankful to Gail and Paul for their generous donation to help pay for his schooling. If you have a bit to spare -- that would be very helpful.

If you would like to assist with a donation

E-interact laynemahon@live.com or Paypal laynegmahon@gmail.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Thanks for reading .... Layno in the snow!!! 

** ps -crossing guard rain pants are way cheaper than snowboard pants in a pinch 😁