Ambling in Africa: Would anyone care for desert?

Lake Turkana & The Chalbi Desert

On an admittedly long bucket list, I have long lusted over the chance to cross Kenya's northern desert on a motorcycle. Undaunted by a relatively long list of challenges and not dissuaded after a failed first attempt on a 650 BMW a few years ago, it was time to try it once more! How difficult can it be?

A few things to consider....

* It's hot enough to cook without a fire

* It's bandit country and considered unsafe

* Big heavy motorcycles struggle with the endless expanses of sand

* The roads are rough and punishing on both machine and rider

* Fuel is hard to come by and purveyors unreliable

* It's hard on tires

* Google is of no use in this remote area and roads are not obvious

* Accommodations are tricky to find so camping gear and protein bars are a "must carry".

* Lastly and most importantly I couldn't think of or imagine anyone crazy enough to join me for the ride.

That's when I thought about asking my good friend and climbing partner Chris who just happened to have a light 200cc Honda that was perfect for the trip! He might just be that crazy!

"Hey buddy!" the conversation began, "let's say you and me ride 1200 Kms up to and across the bandit infested remote reaches of the Chalbi Desert on motorcycles?" "Sounds like a plan" came Chris' always calm and always carefully considered response. "When do we start"? Naturally some planning was in order. Spare tire tubes (more on that later) spare brake - accelerator and clutch cables, spare fuel containers, lots or nuts and bolts bailing wire and of course nylon wrap ties. Now Chris came to riding later in life and has been steadfastly committed to getting the most out of the experience. Over the past few years I've seen him go from amateur to fully capable rider. In addition, he is calm, thoughtful and tough as nails. We've been in a few tough spots over the years and while I sat weeping he just gets on with the task. The perfect guy to have along for a desert crossing I'd say.

PAT - The unlikely and mostly unwilling desert crossing participant

Early in PAT's Metamorphosis

I'd be riding PAT (an acronym for Pseudo Africa Twin). A long coveted Honda Africa Twin being among or perhaps the finest Adventure bike ever built. I -- however, of somewhat limited means, have always found the Twin slightly out of reach financially. Rather, I resurrected this aging cheap knockoff paying $300 for this 2-wheeled derelict. Maybe some day I'll pay the $30000 for the Twin though I think it unlikely being the cheap bastard I am😀.

A brief history of PAT -- bought as a wrecked bike I slowly and with very limited skill rebuild the old girl from the basic frame to complete with a few small upgrades. It was in the most generous of terms, "a budget conscious exercise" and with very little encouragement from my loving wife Essie. Once fully disassembled, her comment was "that thing is doomed and unlikely to ever see another stretch of road ."

Despite -- or perhaps in spite of Essie's dire predictions, PAT eventually fired to life and reluctantly moved down the road on her own volition. There were after all a surprising number of parts that didn't seen to fit anywhere, and a whole lot more wires than one would expect!