Hell's Gate....Kenya and South Sudan

Hiking at Hell's Gate

They call this beautiful hiker's paradise Hell's Gate which in my mind is like confusing Mother Teresa  with Kim Kardashian. Though I have never visited Hell, I'm taking the assumption that this pretty place is as unlike hell as Mother Teresa and KK are to one another .  Kim is much prettier and just gives gives gives.... :)

The hike is along a river bed that has worked it way deep into the sandstone showing off beautiful striations of time on its steep majestic walls. Unique and interesting chambers are created by the back eddies and disrupted flow of the water that comes in a flash a few times a year. Quite a number of people have died here caught in the canyon when the water comes rushing down. Ropes are stationed along the banks as a way out...but likely unhelpful if the water comes. It's more psychologically reassuring than providing any real measure of safety.

But I'm coming to somewhat appreciate the "use at your own risk" realities of this developing country. It's harsh - there is no question - but a tonic to the sometimes overly patronizing safely philosophies of developed countries. One of my least favorites examples of this was found during my much-loved walk around Cedar Hill golf course in Victoria, Canada. One fine day a proliferation of "Watch for flying Golf Balls" signs suddenly appeared. Every 50 meters an important reminder of something that had never crossed my mind previously. Thank you so much for that....


In Kenya;

• If a manhole cover is missing you'd better drive around it. 
• There's no need for a prescription at the pharmacy. Don't buy it if you don't know what it is and how to use it.
• If you can't figure out that a cannon carved by rushing water is a bad place to be in a rain storm.......
• And if lions are suddenly running in the streets, keep you distance.....

That's the fun topic this week in Nairobi. 6 lions are hanging around the city and with little infrastructure to deal with such a thing, the game is one of waiting for the lions to turn themselves in and wait for transport back the the Park. The park by the way borders the city so this is not the first time by any means. Love lions!!!!

Another Hell's gate is just north of here though more commonly referred to as South Sudan. I've spoken of the world's newest country a few times before and this week again with a heavy heart after the tragic death of two more MSF colleagues.

I wish I could add their pictures and names and bring a more personal relationship to these two fine brave souls at this moment. Giving your life while committed to alleviating the suffering of others is a noble thing indeed. I am very much indebted to these two for their sacrifice.

In time their pictures and names will come...and again we'll post their pictures on the office peg board and take a moment to think about them...their families...the chaos of that night and the horrible and untimely manner in which they met their deaths. The pictures are added to the many that hang in memorial on MSF office walls around the world. My goodness what a terrible shame.

And more of a shame given the setting. Inside a POC! That acronym literally stands for Protection of Civilians. So what the fuck is going on? What was the United Nations doing at that time? The soldiers have but one primary duty at the Malakal POC. Keep these innocent civilians safe from the South Sudanese Liberation movement  (SPLM) Soldiers (Dinka). Reports are that as many as 100 soldiers gained entry and as women and children ran to the MSF hospital for shelter the men  (Nuer....this is an ethnic war) fought the soldiers for their lives. Imagine if you can 600 people crammed into our little hospital with wounded coming through the door and the very persons you have entrusted your safety ....absent.

Where was the the UN and what the fuck were they thinking. Shame...

I also feel compelled  to help bring awareness to the bombing of hospitals again. It's 5 now. This week saw another MSF supported facility targeted with blatant disregard for the rules of war and the rights of the innocent. In the same manner that the POC is insufficiently guarded the world and it's peace-keeping institutions continue to turn their backs on the needs of those who desperately need our help. At the very least we need to reach out and protect those who through no fault of their own find themselves as pawns in a game that is at the very least detestable.

In the words of the MSF leader..."Your enemy's doctor is not your enemy". How is it, I often wonder, that we can't muster the resources necessary to protect this basic and most fundamental aspect of decency toward one another?

Thanks for reading - Layno

Hiding with Dedan and a visit to Mathare

Mount Suswa and the Mathare slums

Mount Suswa is indeed a beautiful place. A volcanic crater within a crater with a lofty peak where you can gaze down in wonder and imagine the creation of this beautiful landscape. Suswa is the sister crater to Longonot, a crater I'd hiked earlier and hope to hike again given the tranquility, fresh air and green bits everywhere. This was an overnight trip with us camping on the crater ridge and bar-b-queing a nice fresh goat...mmmmm nuuuuuuumy!

As the Maasai guides gave the crew of about 20 instructions for the hike, I only half-listened knowing the drill after a number of hikes. The park it home to all the animals of the region so you have to be on the look out for cats...big ones. And when it was time to start, I  gave little thought to the gear I would need for the 5 hour hike on this hot sunny day........

All went well until we reached the peak 3 hours later, I huddled under an umbrella with a hike-mate shivering from the cold and wet. No coat, not fleece, no long pants...and in fact a cotton top and shorts. The lesson of being prepared had been taught to me by my father long ago. Many many times my father and I would drive into the woods where inevitably we would become stranded with a mechanical breakdown or stuck somewhere. On may of these outings and subsequent delays my father would repeat the phrase "Fuck!"... we don't have a                (fill in the blank with jacket, car jack, can opener, gas, spare tire,  matches, screwdriver,  map, hairdryer, prayer.......) This is how I learned the importance of being prepared...Thank you father for these important life lessons :)

The sky lit with lightening and the thunder sounded and then the hail..in chunks. There was nowhere to go to get out of the hail and ensuing rainstorm that got heavier with each passing minute. The 2 hour hike out would be a cold wet and uncomfortable time...but then  - Ha!!!! - a flash flood and wind to make things more interesting. Water rushed down the mountain finding our trail the most attractive way back down. Water began to surge over my ankles and then up to my knees at points. The trail became unusable at some point and we scrambled along after our Maasai guide. The group had become separated and I remember thinking it unlikely we would get back safely as darkness started to fall.

In the end the only casualties were electronic devices...and fortunately not mine. Cameras and phone are not built for a rain storm... nothing money and copious amounts of alcohol can't solve.

Making our way to Mount Suswa in a 10 ton overland vehicle. Surprisingly capable off-road.

After eating the goat, veggie bits, and enjoying a couple bottles of vodka beside the bone-warming fire, we hit the sack. The morning brought the most delicious sunrise coming up over the crater...the inner "moat" filled with fog and mystery all at once. Many of us stood coffee in hand til the sun was well into the sky that morning.

Later a group ventured overland to the caves at the base of Mount Suswa. We trekked over the land shared by the pastoralist Maasai, baboons, zebra and all other manner of assorted African wildlife.
The caves are interesting. Baboon parliament as it's called, is straight out of an Indiana Jones movie. A hundred meters into the 2 kilometer tunnel you find a pile of rocks 3 meters high in a big cavern that reminded me of a high school gym though the baboon poo was less smelly than the sweat I remember from those days.

Directly above the rock pile is an opening where the sun lights the pile like a stage. All around are rocks forming a theatre of sorts where the Baboon gather ever night...the leader taking the top of the rock pile and the others arranging themselves to listen and share. Later the baboons find shelves high in the cave to protect them from the prowling leopards that visit on a regular basis hoping for a lazy and delicious baboon.. Deeper in the tunnel were the bats.......

It was the edge of my tolerance for physical discomfort and general creepiness. Hot...overwhelmingly reeking of ammonia, walking over 3 feet of dried guano which is puffy like dry snow but doesn't pack down. It's dusty, catching in your throat. And filled with flies....thousands and thousands all over you....in your eyes and ears and mouth.... panic rises and subsides with each step. At times you have to crawl a bit using your hands covered in the Guano and while dry. it's impossible not to fixate on.... and then of course the actual bats. Looking up with your headlights they are a mass moving and peeping loudly together hanging within reach ...... it seems like there are millions and maybe there are.... all moving and shifting uncomfortable with the intrusion. It's an overwhelming physical experience. Can't wait to do it again :)

The caves were also reportedly home to the Mau Mau as they fought for their independence from 1952 through to 1960 when the message was finally made clear that Africans had had enough of the colonial power. Central to that struggle was the freedom fighter, or depending on your perspective, rebel leader Dedan Kimathi. A true hero of the times immortalized in a beautiful statue in the center of Nairobi. His leadership and outrage propelled many to fight for an independence that should  have been been an inalienable birth right and beyond the destructive and oppressive actions of the Europeans at the time.

His capture and death in 1957 signaled the end of the Mau Mau uprising.....

Walking the caves I thought of what it must have been like for him.....what would he think of how far this beautiful country has come in such a short time. His death was not in vain, it is an inspiration for all who want the best for this country and her people.

A visit to Mathare

 

There is nothing pleasant about Mathare other than the unassailable smiles of those who survive in this slum. It's the second largest in Nairobi  and together with Eastleigh and the dump-site, provide a place to call home for around 2 million people. MSF started 10 years ago with HIV  and TB programs which have since been successfully taken up by the Kenya Ministry of health. Our team now provides programs for drug and multi-drug resistant TB. The programs are hard on staff given the meticulous protocol  required to keep everyone safe from this disease. Of course it's much much worse with those stricken with the resistant strains of the disease. The drug regime, in a word, brutal.

With the successful handover of the the HIV and TB programs MSF took up the cause to address sexual violence in the slum. Pickup points within the slum were arranged (no roads of course) allowing us to get a Land Cruiser ambulance close enough to reach the person requiring aid. MSF is able to operate within the slum in safety given the reputation for care and commitment  built over many years and bringing relief to those who suffer greatly. The MSF logo is protection and ensures safe passage and aid from the community if required. In the clinic we have a trauma center, psychologists and community support workers 24/7 to address the needs of the population.


The program has been in place for just over 2 years now and while not busy in the early days becomes increasingly and unfortunately more busy as the population comes to trust and reach out for our help. The stories shared are in hushed voices with clenched fists and a helplessness that accompanies horrific circumstances with no obvious and immediate solutions. Always at the heart of it innocence lost and bonds of trust with family, community, society and any others damaged forever beyond repair. I am proud to be associated with those who do this work each day. 

Thank you for reading....Layno

Mathare

Jake & Stevie in Africa!!!: The Serengeti

Cheetah's, Maasai Mara, the beautiful Serengeti and a Grade 3 boy's childhood dream comes true.....

 Imagine!!!! I thought to myself as I sat crunched into my undersized little desk in a tiny North Vancouver Island Grade 3 classroom. I'm sure my teacher Mrs. Fisher interrupted my daydreaming a number of times that day gently encouraging me to return to my work. It was a book report on the Cheetah I was working on and my mind had drifted. You see, I was there...on the Serengeti. I was that Cheetah readying myself and selecting the hapless victim. Soon I'd spring and my body would burst forward reaching tremendous speed...the fastest of them all.....the sleekest of them all....the most beautiful of them all!

What Mrs. Fisher was unaware of, was that in those moments (where I appeared to be daydreaming)  the impetus for a lifelong dream of seeing a Cheetah on the Savannah in Africa was being formed. As I cut out the cheetah image from an old National Geographic magazine and pasted it into the pages of my report, I can still remember the little green bottle of white paste and the peppermint smell that filled the air as I stuck the image forever in both the book and my mind.


 


Maasai Mara is arguably the best of the parks in Kenya. It is the Kenya part of the Tanzanian Serengeti, the site of the wildebeest migration and home to many many cool animals. It was like Mother Nature showing us into her pantry and there on the top shelf usually out of reach, was where she kept all the good stuff only reserved for special guests. For these 3 days we were those special guests. On the right below, I sketched the route we took over the 3 days.If you look at the left arrow  directly below you get a sense of the enormity of the reserve. We drove for many many kms only seeing a portion of the area. It's surprising just how many animals there are and how they are all together. Lions often only 30 meters from Grant's Gazelles and Cheetah surrounded by Topi....

Our route into and out of the park over 3 days

Maasai Mara to the left

Stevie snuggles down for a peaceful sleep. Clearly she did not see the giant insect I just saw at the other end of the tent

We chose a safari that was basic, authentic and  to be completely honest, less expensive. Above is the tent where we slept only about 500 meters from the park gates. Now...at these "economy" accommodations there are no fences of course, so we relied on the Maasai guard pictured here and others for our safety. The fellow pictured along side S&J was outside our tent all night to make sure there were no intrusions. Elephants and Buffalo would be the least invited guests though I can think of a number that follow closely behind. I've mentioned the Maasai before and talked about their unique culture and their fierce protection of it. While we were there, a commercial bus hit and killed 27 cows on the highway near the park. Over 1000 Maasai were reportedly on site within an hour barring the highway and demanding significant compensation. In the end, after 8 hours of the highway closed to traffic in both directions, they settled for 1.3 million shillings....about 5x the value of the cows. Shrewd. The Maasai walk through the park with no concern for danger. I asked our tour guide about this and was offered the following explanation; the animals have learned that this tall awkwardly moving red object will kill you so leave them alone. Truly, until recently, young Maasai men still had to kill a lion and have the end of their penis cut off without complaint to enter into manhood. It was only because of the number of lions that were dying was the Kenya Wildlife Service able to persuade the Maasai to do away with this practice. These guys are tough. Forget your Hell's Angels and LA gangs....these guys are the real deal in their quiet simple respect for the land and one another.

S&J pictured in front of our 4- wheel drive tour vehicle. It was really good at getting us through the mud and uneven terrain. The driver Charles, was a 10 year veteran of the park and seemed to know everything about everything. The guide is crucial to a rick experience in the park.

Below  - I'll let the pictures talk for themselves. Do I really need to say anything?

Hey  Joe, Do you know were my sunglasses are - I thought I left them in my trunk

Harry - you are suck a pain in the neck.....just look at me!

S&J with the armed guard to get close to the hippos and crocodiles. Just Hippos today!

I should really get out of the sun.... I burned yesterday even with SP50

Huh ? Huh? Huh? What? Huh? Sorry? Huh? Huh? What?

One of the 3 leopards we saw in trees during our time. This one decided it was time to go for a walk and we got to see him or her climb down from the lofty perch. Bigger, actually much bigger than I expected, and so graceful for a big animal. We did not see a white or black Rhino during the trip but they are rare and for all too familiar reason. Imagine the stupidity of our fellow planet dwellers so selfishly engaging in the destruction of these magnificent animals for their own selfish and fallacious beliefs. They are fools as are we for allowing it to continue. Do what you can to support the extinction of poachers rather than these magnificent animals. This may be the first time I have been supportive of capital punishment.

The best moment for me was "a male lion in the bush". We got to within about 3 meters and could make out something tawny under a bush. It was our first sighting of one of the big 5 so we were understandingly pumped. Hmmmm that must be a leg..and that his back, and ...well hard to say what's what. A bit disappointing...you want to honk the horn or yell "Hey Mustafa" or something to get him to move. Then, quite suddenly,  he lifted his head...and what I thought was the whole animal was only his massive head. The adrenaline surged though me accompanied by fear... A woman in Kruger National Park had just been killed by a male who jumped on the van and came inside to eat her. That came to mind....and then just the amazement of seeing this fine fellow in his world.

Night fall over the park.....another adventure in life that will be treasured and fondly remembered.

Thanks for reading, thanks to J&S for coming all the way to Africa, and thanks to those brave men and women who fight to save these important treasures of humanity. Long may they last.

Thanks for reading......Layno

Jake & Stevie are in Africa!!: Christmas on the Indian Ocean

Malindi - Vasco de Gama did say it was a great holiday destination. He's right...

We elected to rent a van and drive to the coast of Kenya. Road trips are not unheard of in the Mahon family by any means so the 10 hour drive was less daunting for us than many locals I mentioned my plans to. And so at 6am December 24th we loaded the Toyota Noah Van complete with gifts and fake Christmas tree and hit the road. 

Calling it a road is a generous and unnecessarily flattering statement for the Government of Kenya. Though this "road" takes us to the main seaport of Mombasa, it is barely maintained. Potholes in many cases MUST be avoided or the resulting outcome will see you stranded on the side on the road missing wheels and associated previously attached car stuff from down under. Some potholes would be a meter deep and wide. Avoiding these tank traps is the main cause of accidents on the road. We saw 6 or 7 major accidents mostly head-on collisions from this activity. The other danger is the cars that are passing and coming toward you. Corners - hills - oncoming traffic, it doesn't matter to most of the drivers as they try to "make time" on this corridor of crackheads. I was forced off the road on a numerous occasions which fortunately is relatively flat on either side.

As we traveled east, the temperature quickly rose from the relative cool Nairobi mid-20's to a hot dessert-like 30 something. The savanna sped by on either side with Zebra grazing, Thompson Gazelles looking nervously about and giraffes contently enjoying the fresh green bits from the tops of trees along side. The windows wide, the music as loud as we can get it and the sweet flowery smells of Africa filling each breath as we contently chase the black ribbon before us.

The Savannah gave way to red red earth with banana and coconut trees exchanging places with the scrub brush we had seen for hours. We elected to take a short cut off the main "road" which admittedly is a bit of a gamble as a short cut can mean winning the pot or just wasting your money and time. We fortunately won big on the gamble after meeting up with a wonderful Australian family in their Land Cruiser. They loaded us up with detailed instructions on how to "cut through the villages". Thanks to them and the excellent navigational skills of Jake (this time anyway :), we enjoyed a drive through traditional coastal tribe lands of Kilifi region resplendent in rich colors and leafy green more reminiscent of a jungle than dessert. Simple life in every direction - Kenyans waving enthusiastically as we passed. The children even more excited to just be running, jumping, laughing and breathing deeply the simple African life.

At last on the coast we made our way to the beach side hotel that would be our home for the next 5 days. I might also mention the security along the way. We fortunately were waved through most of the checkpoints but given we were into Al Shabab territory close to the Somali border and at Christmas time it was a slightly worrisome journey for me. The Christian celebration is not exactly topping the list of fun Al Shabab things to do. We were a bit shocked to learn of the violence 50 kms north of us on the coast over the coming days. It seems so at odds with the peaceful joyful people we came in contact with each day.

At the one checkpoint our luck ran out and we were detained. 10 minutes into the bullshit you don't have a .......fill in the blank, so a fine of 100 USD is unavoidable....the Grinch had me away from the kids around the front of the car.  I pointed out it was Christmas eve with my family.......He stopped his spiel, smiled and wished us all a very Merry Christmas. It wasn't Whoville and he wasn't the Grinch after all. :)

On the first night we went to the beach late in the evening.....and as the moon rose majestically on the horizon somewhere over Indonesia, we swam in the bathwater warm Indian Ocean. It wasn't long before we were well into a wicked body surfing session that saw us catching 50 and 75 meter carries up onto the beach. It was a wonderful moment for me. We were all laughing jumping and looking around us in amazement at this wonderful place in the moonlight and gentle warm breeze.

The hotel was wonderful and within hours we had met many of the staff and started a friendly relationship. This would be the theme over the next days as we enjoyed the place, food and particularly the people at Angel Bay Resort. Best..at this all inclusive, was the fruit. We all agreed that the pineapple was remarkable as were the passion fruit and mangoes.  A close second for me was the fresh seafood served freshly grilled shish-kabob style. One afternoon turned into a game of keep away in the massive pool with an extended Kenyan family from Mombasa. There's no language or cultural barriers to this game...it's just fun.

 Vasco De Gamma on the East Coast of Africa

 

 

 

I'm not sure what was going on in this shot but I took the photo and was really pleased to capture the dark sky, and a conversation that had to have been secretive and mysterious... perhaps plotting the overthrow of the Catholic church or some such nefarious activity. Or maybe just making lunch plans.... hard to say. On the left is the 500 year old Vasco De Gama pillar which he had erected on his return from the first all sea voyage to India. This voyage changed everything allowing Portugal to reap massive economic benefits from the spice trade.

150 kms south in Mombasa is Fort Jesus also built by the Portuguese to support the burgeoning trade with India. Also...as stated previously,  an nice place for a holiday. A little grog, sunshine and rest....can be just what the doctor ordered for an exhausted world explorer.

On the right, Jake and Steve stand guard taking seriously their responsibility for safeguarding the ancient city of Gede. What they are seemingly unaware of is that the 13th century city was abandoned in the 17th century for reasons unknown. "Discovered" in 1948 it is now a creepy jungle-tangled litter of crumbling structures strewn across a Walmart Mega sized area.
On the Left, Jake and Stevie pose for a "Sears Catalog - like" moment in the ruins. Monkeys and massive millipedes now the only inhabitants, the ruins will not be around for long in this unspoiled natural state. It was a really cool experience to trudge all by ourselves through the ruins feeling like the original discoverers....

The coast is kms upon kms of hard packed sand with the odd mangrove "spoiling" the perfection by reaching all the way down to the sea. On the land side, great dunes of white sand constantly shifting beneath the mercilessly hot sun. It never cools down night or day; reaching close to 40 during the day and dropping to 30 at night.Yup - it's hot! Gotta love a cold Tusker (local brew) on these days.

We rented motorcycles for the day and rode 50 kms of beach stopping now and again to enjoy a dip and more of that fantastic body surfing action. As we raced along the beach with the hot sun and wind on our faces it was hard not to smile at the overwhelming sense
of pleasure and well being. Motorcycles, the kids, the sun...what's not to like. Jake broke his...of course and thanks to Stevie and I we towed him back.......though thought of making him push it for trying to wheelie "dukes of Hazard style" over small rivers. Boys...........

Christmas day  is a special day on the beach in Malindi as all the village people come to walk and enjoy the social activity. Many families dressed the same with outfits all cut and made from a single bolt of material bought with the savings from a mango here and a pineapple there..... Their best clothes and smiles on this special day.

Now that the kids are adults, we visited a night-club in Malindi. We ran out of steam around midnight though the party was just getting started. It was still great fun to be a part of the night scene on a warm night with cold Tuskers flowing and conversation with  locals and fellow vacationers easy and interesting.
 

Are you kidding me? Plastic covered seats in 30+ degree weather? Surprising we stayed upright at all.....

A cool and different Christmas on the Indian Ocean with Jake and Stevie...thanks to you guys for joining me.

Thanks for reading - Layno