Part 4: Two to travel Turkey

ISTANBUL/ TURKEY

This destination would mark the 5th where my good friend Barry has shared a travel experience with me in some far off land. To do so, I had traveled to Istanbul from Croatia briefly stopping in Sarajevo/ Bosnia ( ps - it's much cheaper to bus from Croatia and then fly out of Sarajevo) before meeting up at an Air BnB he had thoughtfully arranged. Most importantly, he had the necessary/critical provisions already purchased. Those being coffee and Single Malt Scotch.

 

 

 In the months prior, I had taken a couple diploma courses. First the Byzantine Empire and just after -- the Ottoman Empire. And some time ago - I had completed a diploma on Middle East history (Arabic Islamic History: From tribes to Empires) so armed now with just enough information to be dangerous, Barry and I set upon the city to explore Religious sites, Museums and of course great food. 

Given my previous travels in places like Tunisia and Saudi Arabia - Constantinople (Istanbul) is a fantastic collision of cultures on which much of our modern world is premised. Like a collision between a Ferrari and a Lamborghini, it is both tragic and beautiful all at once.

 Istanbul is a swirling and twirling tornado of unusual smells sounds and of course people. We were amazed to see the streets filled with people late into the evening. The picture alongside is not Istanbul but taken later at a "must see" salty landscape. I'd recommend giving this "must see" $30 attraction a hard pass. Not exactly the Red Carpet but Barry looks fetching modeling his modern tourist ensemble.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now onto the juicy bits of Istanbul. There were 5 days of exploring but for posterity and the hope of others continuing to read my drivel, I'll  focus on just three highlights;

• The National Museum
• The Blue Mosque
• Hagia Sophia

A quick review of the where the cradle of civilization began lands us smack dab in the middle of this region. Not surprisingly the museum was cooler than the flip side of the pillow on a hot summer night. I'll share a few snaps but I marveled at the audacity of Tabnit, priest of Astarte and King of Sidon who cleverly wrote on his Sarcophagus that there was no point in breaking in as there was nothing to steal. That and the clearly articulated threat of eternal damnation likely did the trick. I'm going to post the same on my front door. Good thinking Tabnit. Those who fail to learn the lessons of history are doomed to repeat them.

 

 

 

The Sarcophagus below was my favorite piece. The level of detail of mourning woman was amazing. The other side depicts men. Not surprisingly they were looking even more mournful as they prepare to go to war. 

Barry stood at this drinking fountain for an hour before security explained that it was part of the exhibition. There would be no water for Barry on this day.

Amazing detail - and the Museum did an exceptional job with lighting to  add a sense of drama and intrigue.

The Blue Mosque

Looking across the mighty Bosphoruis river, the Blue mosque is certainly a thing of beauty from all directions.... though I couldn't help being equally fascinated by all the fishing poles above on the bridge. There are hundreds of them. Barry and I had to have a look at that and saw no one was catchin' nothin'!! Maybe the fish were all at the mosque I thought. I have a joke about that but given what happened to Salman Rushdie - I'll keep that to myself.

We were blessed on the day we visited the Blue Mosque and later Hagia Sophia as it raining heavily. Why would that be a good thing? The line up normally measured in "kms of tourists waiting (KTW's)" was down to about 50 meters and while I almost lost an eye due to unskilled umbrella operators in tight proximity, it was a very small wait for both attractions.

Hagia Sofia

Hagia Sophia  was originally built as a Byzantine Christian cathedral, later converted into an Ottoman mosque, and is now a mosque again after being a museum. Constructed between 532 and 537 AD, it is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, famous for its massive dome, intricate mosaics, and unique structural design that blended the circular dome with a rectangular base. 

What really got me was the sheer size of the cathedral and how that must have appeared to the peoples of that time. It must have been absolutely awe inspiring. Now - if you look at the photo above you'll note a black square just off center to the left. Looking closely you can see two maintenance workers having a smoke break on the steps. That gives a great idea of the size of the place! 

Hagia Sofia is not "gussied up" for tourists. It's really old!!  and seemingly original (changes in religious building adornments aside) Apparently, the circles around the heads in the photo above were due to a failure on the part of the Byzantine Emperor(ess)  to secure political power through marriage - meaning the heads had to be changed with each unsuccessful attempt. I can just imagine the artists just after completing the mosaic work of art. "Hey Brutus did you hear? "What" again! That damned Jezabel!

As you move around the Cathedral/ Mosque you note all the attempts to cover but not eliminate the Christian accouterments. This gave me a lot of pause for thought and perhaps a glimpse into a leading world where world regions can share rather than compete for shelf space. Looking at the photo beside, you can see (I think it's the VM with JC) obscured from view by the strategically placed drapery. Not destroyed or painted over, but simply obscured. How easy would have been to just plaster over this and so many other Christian bits. Rather - it is saved for posterity and out of respect  for our shared world history.

South West Turkey

It seemed and was good idea to rent a car and do a bit of driving. With Barry navigating exceptionally well all that was left for me to do is steer and hit either the brake or accelerator. 

A quick note on highways in Turkey. Phenomenal!!  I believe the speed limit was 140 but cars seeming to be going much faster. That was a bit much for me coming from Kenya where traffic only hits 100 kms in the middle of the night when most people are sleeping. But then - of course - the risk of getting car jacked makes that idea a dumb one.

With Greek Island of Chios shouting distance from our seaside accommodations, the trip took on the  trappings of a Mediterranean cruise than an Indiana Jones inspired quest for undiscovered ruins. I think it's safe to say that we were both surprised at the holiday-ness of the area and definitely the sheer number of cruise ships coming and going. 2 or 3 ships arrived each day  - with tourists (of which I am admittedly one) filling restaurants and clambering over secret hard to find ancient ruins. At Ephesus (see below) there were so many people crowed around I thought we were at a Taylor Swift concert. Maybe the combination of the heat or just a case of the bitch-ies, I found the site to be contrived and "adjusted" to accommodate large numbers of tourists rather than evoking a sense of traveling back in time and bearing witness to our history. Maybe those expectations are unreasonable and in fairness - the original reconstruction of the site was done prior to rigorous scientific methods being employed. That does however set me up nicely for my next point.

 

Regardless of the number of tourists competing for picture views - it's impressive!!

Aphrodisias South West Turkey

I have always believed that fortune favors the brave and so when Barry said "let's drive 3 hours to the middle of nowhere to see if these non-de script ruins are any good or not" "why not was my answer".  

What follows is a series if pictures of the temple of Aphrodite along with the surrounding ancient city. Best - in my view is that we shared the experience with a half dozen other adventurous souls that we saw occasionally in the distance. Next best - the level of preservation and authenticity was second to none. Before the Romans before the Ottomans - this goes waaaay back in time.

 

This is the actual temple of Aphrodite the ancient Greek goddess associated with love, lust, beauty, pleasure, passion, procreation. How many statues have I seen throughout the world of her image. So enamored was I with the place that I took a small piece of marble (about the size of a pinkie nail) from this very spot as a reminder of this day.

Now - Like Rocky in the original movie, it js kept getting better and better. Each short walk brought us to impressive ruins in remarkable good condition. Check the detail on the footings of each seat (a combination of the detailed photo and the amphitheater)

The stadium at 170 meters in length was spectacular. You can almost imagine the Olympic games underway with thew crowds cheering madly!

Here at the baths we get a sense of leisure and social time for the cities citizens. There were many baths of different temperatures and size - and I suspect class. The walls and floors were all double layered and hot air pumped throughout to heat the water and the interior space. Must have been cozy!

A large swimming pool sits just in from of the "city hall" whee you can imagine grass and palm trees and people sitting around on lunch break. 

One more shot of the swimming pool that blew my mind. It's condition and authenticity is undeniable.

Another couple impressive Amphitheater and it was back in the car for the long 6 hour drive back to Istanbul. Fortune may favor the brave but it sure is exhausting being favored. Once again I pointed the car and headed  to an airport that would take us to Georgia and the topic of my next blog

Just Food Africa

My last blog brought  donations and I am grateful again very thankful for the generosity. I will deliver food to the kiddies in the first week of January - though it's never too soon to send a few shekels if you have extra. Again $50 or equivalent is super helpful. Thanks again to Cliff for another donation - I can't thank you enough!

 

MPESA -- +254745237248 (Kenya)

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com (Canada)

Or PayPal -- Laynemahon@live.com (Global)

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading....Layno in ruins somewhere in southern Turkey!!!

 

 

  

Part 3 - Fun & Family in Crowded Croatia

 Zagreb, Croatia

  

 

A one day stay in Zagreb was enough for me given the planned meet-up with  Mom and Sis in Split Croatia the following day. Oh sure - there is plenty to see in the Croatian capital but I was salivating at the prospect of some beach and family time. The super spooky pic above is from the WWII tunnels that run beneath the city. 

As I explored the labyrinth of underground passageways, I considered the allied bombing of the city in late 1944 and how these tunnels would have been a life saver for many. The entrance to the tunnel network pictured alongside is certainly more inviting than it's spooky interior. And there were free toilets!!!! So no pee aroma adding to  the stale and musty interior. Bonus marks there!

 

 

 Split Croatia

 

 

 

 

 

Split accommodated 20 million visitors in the previous 12 months though it seemed that all 20 million were in town on the day I arrived. And for good reason. The irresistible blend of seaside, mountains and ancient ruins is a tonic for travelers from far and wide.

Cheap - it is not! But a seductive alternative to other more famous Mediterranean seaside towns it is. As can be seen in the photo above - a bevy of cruise ships deliver eager travelers to shore so that they may explore and relax in the sunshine and with expensive cocktails and wildly overpriced coffee. (and coming from Kenya - I can say with some conviction - it ain't even good coffee) 

Clearly the foregoing is tinged with cynicism - or maybe even dripping with with it. That - brings me to my main point being that it is wonderful seeing people getting out and exploring the world. If a cruise ship and sipping an overpriced Mohito is how that happens - so be it. In my view, the world is an infinitely better place when we become acquainted with different cultures and embrace historical realities that brought us to this point. Cynicism parked!!! - at least for the time being.   😎

 

 

A view from the park pathway

 

  

 

Easily accessible and to the west of the city is a wonderful park  where wide winding paved paths take you beach-side or you can veer off and follow narrow trails to some mystery location. Ancient churches carved into the hillside and mesmerizing ocean views are only bested by the sunset viewed from the most western tip of the park.

Most delicious for me was the chance to catch up with family. It was here that my Sister and I spent 3 wonderful hours walking, talking, laughing and taking in all the views as we circumnavigated the park.

However, my sister is fit!! I struggled to keep up with her pace and as the older brother did my best to keep a brave face despite exhaustion and an overwhelming desire to just sit down!

 

 

 

A lovable goofball (see attached picture) since my earliest memories of her, her signature goofy is nicely offset by her expertise as an accomplished and highly skilled medical professional. Good to hang with you Nic!

 

 

 

That my Great Great Grandfather Anthony once ran through the olive fields in and around Dubrovnik, was enough to lure my mother (his grand daughter) to this far off land. I am so very impressed with my mother's commitment to visit the place from which her ancestor's came and to embrace that aspect of her family history. 

There are no words other than joyful to express the wonderful time we spent in Croatia as she engaged in this shared pilgrimage to her roots. With my Sis assisting with travel logistics, the pair made for a top notch travel team giggling their way through Croatia. Naturally they took time here and there for a bit of fresh seafood and a glass or two of wine.

They clearly had a ball and I enjoyed exploring with them. When it comes to discovering your roots, even Kunta Kinte would have been impressed.

And a  thought  - Bansky gets it right. Not all interesting Artwork is found in a museum.

My last blog brought  donations and I am grateful for the generosity. I will deliver food to the kiddies on Saturday November 1st.... If you would like to send something along - below is how to do so. Thanks again to Cliff Cyr who continues to make generous and greatly appreciated contributions. So  -- if you happen to have an extra 50 bucks - I promise not to spend it on future vacations!!! 

 

MPESA -- +254745237248 (Kenya)

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com (Canada)

Or PayPal -- Laynemahon@live.com (Global)

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading!!! ....Layno happily getting a Seniors Discount at a Museum somewhere in Eastern Europe.

Eastern Europe Part 2 - Astonished in Austria

Visions of Vienna

 

 

 

 

Drifting into the second installment of my Eastern European peripatetic adventure, I muse about writing this down not just to share, but to remember what the heck I did on the trip. I actually had to put some notes together realizing that I had no recollection of my time in Zagreb. Wine and time wait for no man. 😂 

 

 

My 6-week Eastern European Extravaganza took me through 10 countries. The following country visits I'll break out in a series of short blogs as more time was spent in some of these than the previous countries. I thank you in advance for reading and hope it contains a modicum of entertainment value. I was shocked, amused and humbled to find that the site visits are now over 50,000 views. 

 

Now - however - I do remember Vienna Austria! So "in your face" is the architecture and history that my inside voice commentary was similar to a 45 on a record player accidentally on repeat. Oh Wow! - Oh Wow! - followed by yet another Oh Wow! (please note super-cool reference from another era)

 

 As a solo traveler, one lives in a turbo charged environment where you lament being unable to share your thoughts with a fellow traveler though appreciating the ease with which  travel decisions are made. You only have yourself to hold responsible for mis-booking your hotel for the wrong day. And yes I did that - and yes the host was kind enough to cancel the booking and not charge me.  

 I particularly love the photo above.  I took it noting the orange skirt that brought a complexion or contrast to the image.  Would it have killed our forefathers to have splashed a bit of color around?  

Downtown Vienna!

Exciting Equine

 

Traipsing about Vienna, I rounded a corner and found myself in the midst of the Lipizzaner Stallion staples and training facility. As a boy - a young one at that -  I saw the Lipizzaner stallions perform while visiting the PNE (Pacific National Exhibition in Vancouver) with my Dad. They were graceful, awe-inspiring and mystical all at once. It also reminded me of my daughter and her fascination with horses from an early age. I was never a fan of the whole idea of a tiny girl on a big horse, but so resolute was her devotion to jumping horses over fences, I as powerless to intervene and sadly unable to put my cheque-book away either. 😁

 

 

As I stood waiting to get a photo near the stable entrance, I chatting amiably with a couple from Toronto.  I was glad to speak Canadian for a bit and share thoughts on what we had all seen in Vienna. As I raised my phone for a picture - this shy and majestic fellow popped his head up for just a moment - as if to grant me my wish. Lovely!

 

 

 4 Seasons in a day

The most memorable part of Vienna was an 11 piece chamber performance of Vivaldi's Four Seasons in a 15th century church. Not normally seduced to purchase anything by random street sales gypsies, I was convinced by this cool dude to buy a ticket. It was the last ticket and standing room only. He assured me my $15 would be exceptionally well spent. It was only $15 - what the hell. (It was also appealing to me as most tickets I had see were in the $125 region and I am nothing if not my Father's cheap-assed son.)

 

 

 

I arrived at the church at 7:30 for the 8pm performance fully expecting to see 12 people standing around a band consisting of 1 guy with a kazoo and another with bucket drum. Rather -  I was surprised to see a huge line to get in and clearly I was once again severely undressed. Inside the building I felt a bit giggly and goose-bumped as I was directed to the standing room only area. It truly was a full house and a magnificent house at that. 

 

As the ensemble took to the stage/pulpit, there was a  hush that was both eerie and conspicuous. It was as if a few hundred people were holding their collective breath. I certainly was. From the first violin came the first sound -  delicate and delicious. Such a tiny sound in such a big room and so easily heard. The rest of the group joined in with an accuracy and musicality I have never witnessed. The band and piece were led by an exceptionally gifted (in my opinion) first violin whose tone and accuracy were only exceeded by his dramatic movements. Images came to me as the Seasons unfolded. Big Black horses frothing at the bit and galloping through the night in torrential rainstorms, the pride of triumph and bravery in battle, the anxiety of the masses as their fate shifts precariously in the balance of feast or famine. The light and beautiful notes signifying love and new life. It was a highlight in my life to be fully enveloped in the moment - neither bored or anxious - not tired nor restless - only noting that my fucking feet were killing me from standing in one spot for so damned long. I should have spent the money and got a seat!

My last blog brought a donations and I am grateful for the generosity. I will deliver food to the kiddies on Saturday November 1.... If you would like to send something along - below is how to do so. I have already paid for the Europe trip so the money will not be used for that. 👍

MPESA -- +254745237248 (Kenya)

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com (Canada)

Or PayPal -- Laynemahon@live.com (Global)

50 bucks would really help and no amount is too small or large 😊

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Thanks for reading ....Layno Visiting Vienna!

Entertained and enthused in Eastern Europe Part 1

 Go East Young Man

 

My view for many hours - note the cool etched glass insignia. 

 

The opportunity to "Go East" comes as a result of my recent retirement rendering the "young man" part of the title phrase far from accurate. And speaking of accuracy, my sense has always been that I viewed and learned about world history primarily through a Western European lens. Truth be told  - I missed much (if not all) of what my history teachers shared due to the far more important task of chasing girls and smoking pot. Hence this trip to the Balkans. In previous posts I've shard my thoughts on Middle East travel and African travel. And having explored Western Europe previously - this seemed to me to be a missing link.

 A few observations along the way and standouts from the first 6 countries I had the pleasure of visiting. 

 

Bulgaria/ Sofia

 

Arriving in Sofia Bulgari from Istanbul, I more or less fell from the train rather than alighting in a sporty and enthusiastic manner. I went 31 hours without eating in a sleeping berth all by my lonesome. I may have miscalculated a bit on preparing. PS - why would there not be food on a train - Grrrr!

My understanding is that both Romanian (according to a violinist I met from Transylvania) and Bulgarians continue to strive to make improvements in their relative economies. Abandoned Communist era equipment was notable as the train crept (with more stops than a sniffaholic Black Labrador on an evening walk) across grain and and sunflower covered fields. 

 As train stations often are - graffiti was the decorating choice of the locals while hard looking fellows smoked conspiratorially in dark corners. Women with a bit more makeup than necessary plied there trade as guests arrived. All in all not a pleasant scene greeting this Enthused traveler. 

The local park improved my "sense" of the city but I made the choice to move on after just a day in Sofia. Catching the bus the next day, I noted that "surly" would be 4 step attitude improvement of the cigarette puffing bus driver and ticketing agent.  The bus swerved along as I watched the bus driver text friends and family while at the same time doing a remarkable job of not hitting other cars or the barrier. Now that is talent!

Serbia/Belgrade

 

 On to Belgrade and a marked improvement in vibe and views. The Carpathian basin is framed by mountains naturally cradling this and some of the surrounding countries. Below are a couple shots from a museum (a painting I loved) and Church. A close relative (I won't say whom but it wasn't my Dada) once remarked about the ABC's of Europe ... meaning Another Bloody Church! Too true and while delighting in the visual extravaganza of Churches, one can wonder and muse about the sheer number of faith based buildings along the way.

 

In once more referencing my recent retirement from the work force, I am asking myself if I'm not getting a bit "long in the tooth" for Hostels and dinners of sausage, cheese, bread and wine. To illustrate that point more clearly - when booking - one has to now review the "house rules" which are beginning to include 45 year old age limits. That caught me off guard and hurt my feelings a bit. Worse!!! There is no seniors discount. 😉

 

  

 

I have to say - though - that hostels continue to be a wonderful way to meet people and share ideas.Time and again I shared my stories and listened to theirs often late into the night. It's a great way to learn about how people feel about the world they are exploring.

However - the communal and trusting nature of hostels is under threat. At one hostel (Vienna) - and on a single day, 2 backpacks and a laptop were taken. That evening I met a really unhappy woman who's food was stolen from the community fridge. A disturbing trend indeed! Some bastard took my food on two occasions. I did however put a hex on them  - and I'm sure Karma will ensure that it all gets sorted out. 👍 

 My overall view of Belgrade would be that is a must see. Safe efficient and best of all - there is no charge for transportation services in the country. 

 

 Hungary/ Budapest

 

My thanks to the Kenya running club who as a pity gesture invited me to join them to run the Budapest Half Marathon. I told my friend JohnG about it and he quickly booked a spot in the race and flew over from Edinburgh to join in. All the Kenyans and particularly JohnG left me in the dust on that day - but I did cross the finish line eventually and enjoyed the sights and sites up and down the Danube. We were joined by 6000 other maniacs who made the questionable life choice to get out of bed at 6am on a Sunday and punish themselves for a couple hours. I'm delighted to have been one of those maniacal sporty buggers.

 

 

That's me 4th from the left

Now about Budapest. Come for the Goulash & Langos  - but stay for the tremendous sights and vibe. 

It's expensive but you do get what you pay for. In particular for me it's the transportation network, technology and  a wonderful sense of vitality. I thought it would be cheap - my mistake. My head was in the sand about Eastern Europe and the transition from a failed economic model that abandoned centralized economic demand/ supply planning. I recall the Berlin wall coming down and it doesn't seem that long ago to me. The days of too much money chasing too few goods are over.

There is an air of enthusiasm and optimism thicker than my Mom's Pea soup. It is a must visit in my view - with many of my hostel mates saying it's their favorite city in all of Europe! What? how about London! Paris - my goodness - the world is a  changing place. I need to get out more. 😕

Poland/ Krakow

 

 

 

I just didn't see myself falling in love with Krakow but like a Mike Tyson upper cut - it came out of nowhere leaving me shocked and surprised. It's the design of this city that amazed me.  Centrally - is one of the largest squares (if not the largest) in Europe. Surrounding that -- in a sort of egg shape, is a thick manicured park dotted with universities, fountains and park benches. The city designers really had forethought when they made these early decisions. The result is a quiet, non-hurried functional space that  encourages people to relax - sit together - and be social. Loved it ... 

Poland/Auschwitz

 

 

The manicured green grass and chirping birds distracts from the ugliness of what lies just inside the walls of Auschwitz which lies 60 kms to the West of Krakow. It was a 6 hour wait to visit the site and worth the wait. Worth it because it was entertaining? No - hardly - it was a heavy, stark and brutal remainder of how humanity can get it so very wrong. The memorial demands your attention and strikes and the very core of your being. I'll not go into more detail and only share a couple pictures below. I would however recommend that people take it in - particularly our youth with a sincere hope that history is never repeated. I'm proud to say that my daughter visited during her high school years and I'm sure it had an impact of the fine young woman she has become.

   

 Czech Republic/ Prague

 

 

 

 

 

There are 3 or 4 major attractions in Prague and they are indeed major. I don't believe the design of the city rivals that of Krakow but Prague certainly does have it's candy. Sites so rich and dripping with beauty you need to wear sunglasses and worry about your blood sugar levels after just an afternoon. Again - it not inexpensive, but like Budapest, rich in history and optimism for the future. 

The National Museum of Czech Republic is the best museum I have visited in my travels. It's a 4 hour romp leaving you with sore feet and ready for lunch but as a friend of mine has pointed out "there's no such thing as culture without a little discomfort" 😁

 Remarkable I think - is that the museum is moving toward a marriage of antiquity and technology. The use of VR and screens with images along side important pieces, allows you to access the information in a more satisfying manner. Especially for those with failing eyesight!

 

 

The National museum of the Czech republic

 

Teacher Grace called me recently asking if I could deliver another 3 months of food. $400 USD feeds 250 kids for 3 months so if you would like to donate to help me feed hungry kids - you can email me to chat about it  -- or do so by sending a few shekels through:

MPESA -- +254745237248 (Kenya)

Or interact -- Laynemahon@live.com (Canada)

Or PayPal -- Laynemahon@live.com (Global)

50 bucks would really help and no amount is too small or large 😊

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading ... .Layno somewhere in Eastern Europe!!!