Springtime in Amsterdam

Tulips are the most sensible of flowers... Show and go.....

I can think of no better time to arrive into Amsterdam than just as the tulips are coming into bloom. Bright - cheerful - colorful sights greet one at every turn as you explore the streets and canals of the city.  I love tulips as the harbingers of better weather heralding the news with spectacular displays that are extinguished almost as quickly as they appear. A very sensible flower in my view...always leave them wanted a little more.

I had a few days of work/play in the city so contented myself with half days of faithful service to my computer and the rest simply wandering with no particular place to go. No maps - no agenda...just wandering.......................

 
My amazing daughter Stevie has visited Peru, Mexico and Africa in the past few months so may have been infected with the same wanderlust. A prouder Dad I couldn't be :)


In  addition to the shameless wandering I also indulged in my favorite dinner on each of the nights I was in the city. As pictured below, a Merlot so thick you can stand a fork in it - a wheel of Camembert, a dry sausage and of course a baguette just warm from the oven. All for less than $20.... the Europeans have their priorities straight in my mind. Food and then everything else. Healthy? Hmmmm...not sure about that.

Fat Bastard - Camembert - Sausage and a baguette...oh yeah!!!!!

The sun was warm (not Africa warm) enough to draw Amsterdamites out to the street cafes and neighborhood pubs for drinks of all sorts. For me - a number of beer stops were clearly a necessity due to extreme thirst and the very real possibility of expiring mid-step due to dehydration. Why take that chance. A sparkling conversation with a stranger generally ensues .... in this case a Dutch couple in their 80's out for their daily beer.

Belgium after the bombing........

 

I took the train to Brussels after Amsterdam and and while mainly working while there, I did have to travel through the city using the trams, bus and trains. The Maalbeek station was still closed and the aftermath of the bombing and security was both omnipresent and menacing; a constant companion to the Belgians who have had to reconcile their beautiful peaceful lives with the acts of terror that left 32 dead and over 300 wounded.

At Gare Midi, the south train station, 5 of the entrances are closed pushing commuters to a single point of entry and down a roped corridor where you are scrutinized for anything that could be used to inflict more pain and suffering. On the left is the view from the front desk at the hotel where I stayed. I am getting ready to exit and make my way through the heavily armed guards who are in no mood for jokes or idle chatter. To get out of the hotel - you have to push by these guys who are so focused on their task they neither give way or exchange any kind of greeting. Interesting and understandable  - and a clear example of the tension gripping this normally friendly and hospitable city. I share in their grief, and those elsewhere who continue to have their lives torn apart by what must be the actions madmen and woman.


“There are few things more dangerous than inbred religious certainty.” ― Bart D. Ehrman,



Thanks for reading - Layno

East Coast Mombassa and South to Diani..

Nothing to beach about here...

As you pass under the iconic tusks heralding your arrival into the great Port City of Mombassa the sights are not in the least bit pretty. It's a dirty port town more functional than aesthetic; it looks and feels worn, tired and defeated. It's a loud and dirty city where Tuk tuks and trucks compete to be the winner in an all out contest to completely assault your senses. The great gusts of dirty smoke, loud engines noises and constant competition for space on this little island is overwhelming. And all of this in close to 40 degree heat! There is a  new rail line being built to Mombassa and then on to Uganda that will eventually ease some of the congestion and allow for the repair of the ubiquitous bone shattering potholes that grace nearly every street. There is also a proposal to twin the port in Lamu to the north but as long as Al Shabab continues to be active in that region it's unlikely that will happen. For now though, it's 24/7 activity as the port feeds East Africa's growing appetite for more and more stuff.

Hmmmm.....no need to get out marshmallows just yet...

 There was a tense moment as we drove to Mombassa. Caught in a traffic jam we ended up near a truck burning on the side of the road. The driver had managed to uncouple the trailer full of diesel fuel but only managed to move the truck a couple meters from the trailer before fleeing for safety. We were torn between abandoning the car and running for safety or hoping traffic would move again.

Very natural looking....

Thankfully traffic cooperated and we were glad to see the industrial campfire in our rear view mirror as we continued on to Mombasa. I read of a similar situation recently where the tanker finally exploded killing many of those standing by with Jerry cans hoping for free fuel. I don't know how this ended but did note the throngs of onlookers hoping for freebies.

For me, It's another reminder of the difference between developed countries and those developing. There will assuredly not be transportation safety officials speeding to the scene to ensure the situation will be handled safely and contained. The tractor will burn until it can burn no longer ...the trailer may or may not blow to smithereens. The burnt out remains will then be picked apart but villagers selling the scrap metal bit by bit. Until it's gone. The circle of life.....


But the city has not always been like this. It was established around 900 AD and boasts an impressive and fascinating history as a major gateway linking Europe and the East. The Portuguese boat driving guy, Vasco de Gamma showed up in 1498 and built Fort Jesus. Here my friend Dave, a fine fine music teacher from Denmark, (and guitar player so can't be too bad a guy) poses awkwardly at the entrance. There were better pictures of Dave...but this is my choice because it's my blog and he foolishly gave me permission to publish whatever I liked. I can make the most fun of him with this shot. He's a really good guy and it was a pleasure to spend time with him..

The Architecture is very strange and intriguing. The fort is the outline of a body accessorized with various Arabic bits.

Once inside the fort it's easy to imagine the life and times of the times. The fort was built to withstand cannon fire and clearly has done so. It's perched high on the ocean-side majestically commanding a view of any approach to this important outpost of the Portuguese play for kings of trade. Cannons liter the space looking archaically menacing and effective at persuading would-be invaders to try invading a castle down the street.

I love old doors...and posing dramatically:) Oh the horror!!!!

Florence, our trip leader and quite possibly the most unflappable and calm person I have ever met, doesn't find the cannons so menacing but more a convenient resting place on a day hot enough to melt rocks! So calm is Florence that I checked for a pulse on a number of occasions. She was fine....
The fort is undergoing significant erosion to the foundation on the the south side. My hope is that the authorities will ensure that this important UNESCO world heritage site and treasure of humanity received the funding required to preserve it for the future. In my view history needs to be seen as well as read. If visiting the coast of East Africa, I would strongly recommend this important historic link to the past.

In an only slightly less awkward pose Dave celebrates our arrival at 40 Thieves beach bar in Diani. Elle sticks out her tongue in some kind of Miley Cyrusesque  tribute and expression of sheer joy.  I stuck out my tongue out as well not knowing why exactly but really enjoying what is possibly the coolest bar I have ever been to. White sand floors and the beach lit up with great music filling the air. Lots of people lounging, dancing, walking the beach or swimming in the 30 degree ocean. Women in dresses and men in pants swimming and enjoying playing in the water in various stages of dress and undress. We stayed til 3:30 that night and 4:30 the next. Such a fun place!!!!

The beach is truly spectacular!! We spent time lazing at an expensive resort we pretended to be from after walking from our "more budget conscious" accommodations that while nice, were no match for the oceanside  resorts. The beer was cold, the view astonishing and the warm breeze off the Indian ocean smells sweetly as it nourishes the soul. In for a dip...out for a cold beer..repeat!

Our final day was spent snorkeling the coral reef around Wasini island. The island is south of Diani and about 3 kms off from the mainland. It is for the most part, the island group of Zanzibar, Pemba, others and then Wasini to the north. Known for its rich and plentiful marine life, this marine park  is truly a snorkelers dream come true. A new hobby for me and one I would like to much more of. I plan to do my scuba certification in May.


 I'll do my best to share my underwater experience but it probably doesn't doesn't translate well.
First I'll say that my mom would have enjoyed it immensely. I thought of her often as wave after wave of color, shape and texture delights you. And wherever you look there is more! The sand is bright white and shimmers like there are diamonds scattered about with coral "heads" that are about the size and shape of a bright pink head of cauliflower. And the bright yellow "plants" that look like someone's long hair but thicker, like fettuccine, reaching for the bright blue sky through the turquoise water. The clown fish are "hidden in the hair" all blue and orange and white. And then the other fish. A large fish the size of  wine bottle that was rainbow colored was my clear favorite. As they turned and twisted, another dazzling display of color brighter and brightest greet you. Or maybe its the small electric blue fish or the bright yellow ones the size of your hand that are like the figment of an overactive imagination, but are real.

My best moment started with a signal to Dave that I was going down to where about 500 of the yellow fish were gathered near the bottom of a pink coral reef. As I swam the 2 or 3 meters down and into the right into the middle of the school; underneath were about 1000 of the small bright blue fish. Suddenly I was surrounded by a blue and yellow snow storm as the fish scurried frantically expressing their extreme disappointment of being disturbed. I stayed as long as I could, then finally swam up and broke the surface laughing with joy. What a moment!


Behind Florence you can see the coral reef that was the staring point for our snorkeling adventure. Thanks so much to Flo for putting the trip together.  Nice job!!! And thanks to Dave and Elle for their fun company and making a pretty good, though not as good breakfast.

Thanks for reading - Layno!!!

South Sudan again...what has changed?

The streets of Juba....South Sudan

A busy Juba street with a Doctor's without Borders Land Cruiser  making it's a way along.

This week finds me in South Sudan again and I took this photo just now looking out the window of my room. The first and most shocking thing is definitely the heat. As you make your way to the exit on the plane you know full well that it'll be hot but as the warm air reaches you you think for a moment that it must be a motor running or something that makes that heat. And as you step from the plane it is shockingly hot. It was low 40's as I stepped off the plane and heard later that it had reached 50 north of there. That's an oven setting for heaven's sake. You roast stuff at that temperature!! Braised Layno coming up!

You'll note the almost complete absence of cars in the photo above for good reason. You simply can't get around the city in a car. The ruts are just too deep. Even the mighty Land Cruisers have to gingerly make their way along.

The city is full of plastic bottles. Some attempt to collect them and then burn them giving the city the odor of burning plastic. It's a smell I've come to associate with both Kenya and South Sudan.

As you drive along you see the odd dead dog run over and destined to stay by the roadside until mother mature does her work. And you see a lot of people just sitting. There are no jobs- no activities - no opportunities - no hope for many of these people. In the picture to the left is a woman and child. She sat there all afternoon and evening as her little guy looked around for things to do. Symbolic I thought, of the country and where they are.

I think I mentioned previously that I'm currently reading the book "Why Nations Fail" and have a new-found respect for the institutions I thumbed my nose at as a young rebellious man. The judiciary, the Bicameral legislature and even the Monarchy. Lizzie may be expensive from a dollar and cents perspective but the cost of lack of support for political structures is the absence of economic growth and the basic needs of its citizens. I love being 53 and enjoying the understanding that comes of the world from a lifetime of gathering bits and pieces. I'm not prepared to support societies notion that growing old is an unfortunate reality. Age is a gift that just keeps giving. May we all live forever :)

I'm very pleased to hear that UNMISS is investigating the breach of the POC camp at Malakal, South Sudan. This is good news as it's crucial that our world's peace keepers do the hard work necessary to keep our institutions clean and ever-improving. Why did it take this long to announce the need for an investigation? How long will an investigation take? I take issue with what appears to be a lack of urgency but look forward to a thorough review of the events.

The UN has it tough...I get that.....but when protection of civilians and rape of civilians are terms that can both be used to describe the world's peacekeepers, we indeed have a serious problem. In this case (Malakal) a deficiency in planning and execution of the emergency plan constitutes an egregious and fundamentally unacceptable failure on the part of the UN. I'll be very interested to see the result of the investigation.

Peace in the region is holding for the most part and the future looks to be improving... but it will be a very long time before anything like prosperity finds this part of the world. It's a long road ahead.

Well this beats walking!!!!

These two pics are for my Dad...On my way to a meeting we drove up behind this pickup carrying a camel. I was immediately reminded of one of my Dad's favorite jokes about the camel family. It goes something like this; Did you hear the one about the camel family? The father had 2 humps and was called Henry, the mother 1 hump and was call Hilda. The bay had no humps and was called Humpfree...hahahahhaha. 

I love my Dad for this and the rest of his stupid jokes. It's not the jokes I love but his ability to take something so incredibly stupid and still laugh about it. Thanks Dad!! You 're a decent man... and there are so few of us :)

Thanks reading - Love Layno

PS - well over 5000 reads of my little  blog to date...thank you so much for sharing my adventure!!!

Naivasha's Crater Lake and a little bit of Italy thrown in

Crater Lake in Naivasha

Rocking my new Zumba top.....oh yeah!!!!! But will I dance better? Unlikely

Last week I joined a group hike at Crater Lake, Naivasha. The hike, an hour and a half outside the city, is a great "reset" for the senses. Geographically intense, it also offers up Acacia trees full of 5 kinds of Monkeys and in that little valley behind (we hiked that later) is a veritable cornucopia of Giraffes, Gazelle, Waterbuck, Buffalo, Zebra etc. Special about this hike is walking among the animals. With the exception of the Buffalo and cats, it's safe to get close to the animals as they coexist in this little park/not a park. The buffalo scare the shit out of me and the cats are generally not to be seen and anyways - have plenty to eat other than people. People would be easy to catch I'm guessing though...hmmmm

A big male Baboon thinks about pork for dinner..."when did I last have ribs"? I once had Ribs with my friend Mary that were absolutely to Die for!!

 

The Italian Job!

 

It was  super sunny that's why I squint.....oh and the fact it makes me
look more like Clint Eastwood. A little...around the eyes?
Does Clint do Zumba??

On the way to Crater Lake, the road travels north out of Nairobi via a teeth shaking, kidney torturing excuse for a highway that ultimately turns west and down off the Great Rift Valley shelf. It is very much like the Niagara escarpment I have thought though a bit warmer and with less potholes. Torontonians may beg to differ.

What is uniquely different though, is the road was built by Italians prisoners of war in 1942. I imagine that you if you're going to be a POW this was not a bad place to be!!! The road is steep and has stood the test of time, a testament to the quality work done when constructing. And speaking of testaments, once you reach the valley floor a small chapel sits beside the road that also was built by the POW's. The British must have found a bit of compassion in their frosty souls allowing their fascist friends the chance to bring a sense of shared spirituality to this remote little place. As I walk around the property, I marveled at the terraces and brick work that leave no doubt of the architects and builders,. Pausing for a moment I can imagine elderly Italian men and women puttering about the place well after the POW's were repatriated to Italy. Many Italians stayed in this little valley taking up farming and Kenyan wives or husbands. The church continues to be in use as a spiritual gathering place as well as many weddings and end of life celebrations. A great description and fascinating comment section can be found at the blog link: The Church Tony Built

From that blog I(The church that Tony built)  learned more about the inside walls that are covered with Latin which reads, Venite Ad Memone (Come to me my people), Haec Est Victoria Quae Vincit Mundum Fides Mustra (This is the victory that has won the world by our faith), Benedicite Coeli Domino Benedicite (Blessed be the sky and blessed again) and finally Universa Germinatia In Terra Domino, which translates to, everything will germinate in the sky and also on the earth.( Source EA Standard)

The picture behind the altar is of baby Jesus and his parents Mary and Joseph surrounded by the angels drawn in early 1943 by Navitatis NDJC. The drawing symbolizes the victory achieved by the religion across the world.

 

Flowers from Naivasha

 

I do need to take moment and talk again about the flowers of Naivasha. The lake is surrounded by greenhouses full of these beautiful flowers. Roses grow with seeming unbridled enthusiasm  and I'm amazed that unlike Canada where Rose blossoms are a summer treat, the one in front of my office as example, has been blooming continuously since my arrival. They are easily one of my top 5 flowers along with Hyacinths, Bougainvillea, Tulips and Lilacs. I really do appreciate Mother Nature's Bouquet.  And here in Nairobi, they are a constant source of joy for me as cut flowers are cheap and plentiful. Twice weekly I visit Corrier outside Valley Arcade Plaza for another bunch of roses or something else similarly beautiful at about $2 per bunch. Of course they are seconds and don't last long but really beautiful with so many colors and sizes to chose from. A few hours in the sun on the back of a Boda Boda (below)  ....and maybe they don't last long I really enjoy the smell of fresh flowers filing the room when you come home at the end of the day.

I think Clint Eastwood is a big fan of flowers as well.

Lastly...I have discovered Simsim and Custard Apples this week. The Simsim are simply peanuts, sesame seeds and sugar in a golf ball shaped food unit that I am now happily addicted to. And the custard Apple is a culinary treasure I bought from a hawker while in a omnipresent traffic jam on Mombassa road. You treat is like an Avocado - that is to say that you leave it out until it is soft but then eat it a bit like a cocoa pod. It tastes just like custard. I did notice that the fruit is only good for about 2 days. Before its too hard and after getting brown and losing flavor.     

Thanks for reading - Layno