Tuesday, December 26, 2017

Joburg & Jake

A Quick Tour of South Africa




Johannesburg is nicknamed Jozi or more commonly Joburg by most and in the same way that the name is shortened so too are the offerings for curious visitors to the city.  Well - in fairness, I only saw a bit of the city but what i saw was a city trying desperately to shrug off the massive chip on it's shoulder and leap forward into the future. Below is a part of town called Newtown ( for all too obvious reasons) 





Newtown is resplendent with hipster hangouts and fancy clothing shops. The people, a not - so - surprising number being white skinned, stroll merrily around or lounge contently over cappuccino decorated with the latest Rosetta and capped solicitously with chocolate sprinkles and whatnot.

My tour guide on the day was Merdlyn who I met quite by accident as she struggled with a mountain of gifts she was attempting to get back to Zimbabwe, her home country. I helped out a bit in getting the gifts to the bus depot so they could then make their journey to her waiting Rellies. In exchange she graciously offered to show me around a bit over the next 2 days.
I would say that my experience was a positive one mostly due to her fun friendly easy going nature and joyful outlook on life. We chatted endlessly about life in Joburg and her reasons for leaving her home country for a bit. It's almost time to go back she pointed out given recent events taking place in Zim (as she affectionately calls it). A big thank you to this lovely soul for taking the time to hang out with me and sharing her music. She's an excellent and very talented musician.


So as wonderful as both Merdlyn and Newtown are .... there are clear no-go areas and clear danger to those walking the streets as I so often do when I travel. As Merdlyn and I asked directions once a helpful man said ... "oh no don't go left ... go right or you'll be in big trouble". In Joburg the difference between safely and disaster can be a 50m walk in the wrong direction. I went walking after dark in search of food one evening and realized how foolish that was as passers by leered at me and made threatening gestures. Oops.....

She and I also had a weird experience ... in the wrong part of town (oops x 2) when suddenly everyone was running and shouting. Vendor carts were being knocked over, people yelling and falling. I grabbed my bag and held it to my chest as Merdlyn and I quickly ran half-crouched in the direction most seemed to be headed. Around the corner and half a block away - life returned to normal. Who knows what that was. I'll imagine it was James Bond being chased by secret agents after making off with the secret micro-chip containing highly sensitive government docments.... though it more likely was a raid on vendors selling knock-offs from Vietnam.

Simply put -- in my humble Joburg is not yet a safe place and should be seen from a taxi ... not on foot...... at least for now.

The Apartheid Museum in Joburg





Having the photo of me alongside advertising for the Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela exhibition at the Apartheid Museum was a great moment for me. Along with my Dad and Mom  -- of course -- he is one of my great heroes.  I recently studied Steven Biko's contribution to the anti-apartheid movement through his leadership in the black consciousness movement. All that history includes, centrally, Nelson Mandela and his amazing grace and contribution. 


Kwame went through the White and I through the non-white entrance as dictated by our tickets. We had to chuckle ....



Clearly identified as a white person
The museum is a first rate world class institution in my view. When you first enter the museum, your ticket stub directs you to either a white or non-white entrance (at random of course). Before being reunited 50 meters along, you are then channeled through various exhibits that give a small taste of what it is like to face this kind of discriminatory practice.  Above is a really great guy I had the pleasure of meeting at the hostel. Kwame, a fellow humanitarian from New York; He & I spent a good part of the day exploring this fine exhibition together. It is one of the best museums I have visited absolutely bursting with information laid out in a manner that allows you to sip a little or drink deeply from the almost limitless well of details. I -- of course -- drank deeply finding all kinds of interesting facts about this difficult time in our world's history. Almost humorously contrived were the video clips of the then politicians justifying their actions. What a fucking joke. I remember boycotting Shell company in my early 20's because they supported apartheid. I had no idea what that actually meant... years later. I'm glad I did that even  if for the wrong reasons. The Apartheid Museum is well worth the time for both the presentation and a reminder of how we actually can un-fuck something so terribly messed up if we have great leadership.!!


Introducing Jake!!!

 




If you've read any of my previous blogs you may recall the story of my friend who was brutally assaulted 9 months ago. Well - I'm happy to report that mother and child are doing very well both being happy and healthy. I had the good fortune to be invited to visit my friend and Jake 4 days after he entered our world and am very grateful for the invitation.

As I sat in their humble comfy home and talked and laughed with my friend and her family we listened to Jake making his little noises oblivious to the conversation around him. The world remains a beautiful place stubbornly refusing to allow the mis-deeds of some ruin the joy of so many others. If you have an interest in helping my friend and little Jake - please let me know by email and we can get a few bucks to them.

Email me at .... Laynemahon@live.com Also thank you to my friend for letting me share her story and pictur




Back on the road for an 18 hour bus trip leaving the north for the very south of South Africa -- Cape Town. Why the bus and not a plane? Well how else would one get to see what's between here and there. Next blog-- Cape town.... said to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world. It's no Joburg 😁


















Thanks for reading .....Layno!!!

PS - I've passed 15,000 page views on my blog -- and feel deeply honored humbled and privileged that you would take an interest.

Thank you!!



3 comments:

  1. Every story ends up with a sad ending, but the story of Jake leaves us with so much hope in our wotld

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Irene - I agree and as long as there is hope in the world - it's a beautiful thing.

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  2. A life of travel creates a story of the world worth telling. Awesome article! Thoroughly enjoyed reading your Joburg experiences with your cool guide tour Merdlyn.

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