Languishing in Luxembourg

Has much changed since my grade 4 book report in 1972? 

It was about this postage-sized country that I wrote a school report in 1974. I can remember the finished product with it's beautiful glossy forest green cover and delicious spell of peppermint glue emanating for the carefully selected and placed images within it's pages. I was damned proud of that report and remember thinking about how this small country came to stand so resolute against the giants surrounding. Not only has the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg stood since 1815 --- but has one of the top three GDP's on the planet!!!

It's no small praise to say that this country has managed to build & maintain one of the highest "standards of living" on the planet. And it's certainly not that I agree with $20 hamburgers and $10 pints of beer (I chuckled at the sight of a set steak knives for $600 ) but would say that the orderly state of affairs and a meticulously maintained environment are a pleasant reminder of what people do when they have plenty of dough and time. The parks are beautiful, the streets clean and orderly, museums and concerts free and well attended by those with both an appreciation for the arts and the time to do so.

A classic Luxembourg boutique Hotel. A place where I could stay if I sold all my possessions and lived in a tent thereafter.

From the center of town Notre Dame -- Our Lady of Luxembourg Cathedral beckons seductively with it's tall spires and associated Gothic bits and pieces. Up close and personal it's a fine example from the period with it's high ceilings and stained glass. But more - so much more is the pipe organ on this fine day. Each week -- a different musician is invited to play for the crowds that gather. As if on cue --- he played one of my most favorite pieces -- Bach's Air in G minor. It always makes me a bit weepy for some reason but so too does Puff the magic dragon. I get my sensitivity from my Mom.... definitely not my Dad. :)

 Now these are not your weak and huddled masses of the dark ages-- oh no-- these are a very well healed jet setting milieu straight from the pages of  Vogue and GQ. Though in fairness and with an absence of sarcasm-- appreciative and suitably contemplative. The standing ovation afterwards was enthusiastic but of course we were all standing to start with. The church then emptied as the start of the service - a testament to the times. Gucci beckons.   Air in G minor on a Pipe!

A fantastic pipe organ visually delicious and audibly spectacular!

I also had a chance to take in the Luxembourg Museum of History and enjoyed that very much. I always do :) A couple pieces that caught my eye are beside and below. The wild man on the right, is quite a large piece taken from a family home in the 1800's 300 years after it was commissioned and where it had been placed at the entry to ward off evil spirits. Or better yet -- perhaps to give some idea of the temperament of the occupants. A copy still stands at the house but I loved the idea of this fine fellow guarding the occupants through the nights and days with is fierce look full of danger and drama. And below Jupiter!!!! .... ultimate God of the Roman Pantheon stands stoically below ... one leg missing from all the ass-kicking he's done. Oh yeah Jupiter!!! I think he was a decent MMA guy.

I'm in Belgium for a couple weeks taking an advanced course in security risk management. And yes -- that's risk for people not stuff. It's an intensive two weeks that takes us through scenario after scenario -- learning and re-learning how to analyze the security context/ environment and build mitigation strategies that minimize risk. It's indeed alarming that the number of abductions is exponentially on the rise as rebel groups begin to "export" their abduction expertise and all see it as an easy way to get their hands on cash. The idea of complicated proxy strategy where the would be kidnappers use components of the plan like building blocks -- each "block" unaware of the larger goal and only working for the money.... well it's a frighteningly effective strategy. I can't say more than this in fairness.

 It's our (MSF) daily reality though pleased to say that those who are in charge of this important (maybe the most important) part of our business are seriously fucking smart people. These are leading minds in all aspects of security management dedicated to making sure that MSF continues to access populations in need. All the money in the world won't help if we can't get people to go and help. Hopefully the time will come when humanitarian aid workers are again recognized for the important, independent, impartial and neutral part they play.





A note on last week's post - the day after leaving my beautiful Diani  HSM "Harakat al-Shabaab al-Mujahideen" or more commonly known as Al Shabaab opened fire not far from where I was staying .... killing a civilian and two police officers just as they had done a couple weeks previously. What a shame. Their activities are usually confined to the north coast  (closer to Somalia) though I'm sure the activity now in the south will have the deleterious and premeditated effect of scaring off tourists and the money so desperately needed by the Kenyan people.

Also a quick note on my friend who was so viciously raped and beaten --we'll call her Maria -- is doing very well under the circumstances and expecting to deliver her baby in December.








Thanks for reading.....Layno!!!