Christmas in Nairobi ... Ho ho ho
The kids, Jake & Stevie, came to visit for the Christmas break and in my next 3 blogs I'll describe our adventures. First in Nairobi, then the Beach Scene in Malindi, and finally on Safari at the world famous Maasai Mara.
Christmas has always been an exceptionally wonderful time in my 53 years with a Norman Rockwellesque theme consistently applied. Though the first 3 or 4 are a bit fuzzy, the others remain indelibly etched in my mind as particularly pleasant recollections.
Christmas has always been characterized by the smell of roasting turkey, an over-sized fresh and fragrant Douglas Fir tree overly accessorized and the sounds of easy conversation and laughter that come from familiarity and a peacefulness that accompanies the season. My mother, ever the Matriarch, carefully coordinates the season "cheerfully allowing" other family members to take the lead from time - to - time but always completely invested in making sure her family has a wonderful experience. :) I love my Mom for this among many other things. She continues to bring joy to so many with her tireless commitment to the well-being of those she loves.
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| The Christmas tree - sort of........ |
And so Christmas would be very different this year. The kids and I would be alone in Africa and the long standing traditions absent. Roast turkey would be replaced by Ugali Sucuma Wiki and goat stew. The Douglas fir tree replaced by a ridiculously expensive plastic look alike (which it doesn't) and the easy conversation conspicuously absent of a number of familiar voices. The temperature rather than hovering around 0 would be in the high 20's in Nairobi and high 30's on the coast. Very different indeed.
At Jomo Kenyatta International Airport I waited at the arrivals gate fretting, about the coming 2 weeks and how I would recreate a Christmas the kids would appreciate given the absence of the touchstones previously omnipresent.
Those jittery feeling melted as the kids rounded the corner and walked towards me. As our eyes met after 8 months, it was admittedly one of the most emotional and exciting moments of my life. Christmas after all is about the people you care about and at least 2 of them were going to be with me to share the time. If only I could get the rest of the family and friends here ....
Pictured at the top is a shot from the giraffe center where you can get very close to the giraffes and explore a facility dedicated to providing information about these gentle, graceful and beautiful giants. It was a busy place with lots of people and a lot of smiles.
Also on the list was the elephant Orphanage which I have talked about previously. The elephants are playful and gentle with a cheeky side that makes them particularly endearing and at the same time is heart-wrenching given the current "ivory trade" crisis.
We kept busy over the next days as I introduced them to the complexities of life in a developing country. The contradictions and confusion; the desperation and delights; the warmth and beauty of the people who live here. Like:
- the kids had a 3 hour tour of Kibera slum with it's million citizens living in the worst possible circumstances.Danger and desperation the constant theme.
- lunch with my work team representing Kenya, Rwandan, Zimbabwe and of course Canada. There they were introduced to Kenyan food and the warmth and cheerfulness that is the essence of life in Nairobi.
- Dinner at an Ethiopian restaurant were we enjoyed cold Tusker Malt beer, Injera and spicy meat dishes. My friend Chris, a retired Canadian Police Office joined us and talked about his volunteer work dedicating his efforts to stopping poaching in East Africa. He's a good man!
- Visited Strathmore University where the kids have an opportunity to attend one of the best Universities in Africa. A bit intimidating with soldiers every 10 meters or so and high fences protecting the facility but Garisa is not yet a distant memory. The deaths of 147 students still on the minds of so many.
- Visited the memorial to the Bombed American Embassy where over 200 people lost their lives in 1998.
- Visited West gate mall just reopened after Al Shabab murdered 67 and wounded 175 people on 21 September 2013
- Lunch downtown Nairobi where we walked the streets including the notorious river road where even locals keep their phones deep in their pockets during the day. My friend Jayne, Farmer Actor and is currently writing a thesis discussing the relationship of terrorist activity and atheism in a changing world. She took us to a famous Kenyan restaurant where only 1 dish of the 10 or so offered were appetizing choices for our delicate (maybe spoiled) Canadian pallets. It's good to use all parts of the cow and goat...right?
- Nyama Choma, famous in Kenya, is a meat dinner traditionally accompanied by beer. We enjoyed Crocodile, turkey, pork beef chicken goat and all roasted and brought hot to the table on a spit. It keeps coming until you've had more than enough. We were joined by my friends Mueni and Andy. In addition to both being climbing and hiking partners they are two amazing people in their accomplishments and joyous approach to life. Andy is fucking funny....straight up!
- shopped at the Maasai Market....an open air market where the vendors are some of the most skilled sales and negotiators I have ever witnessed. It was hilarious to watch the kids learn the way of the market..over-paying a bit at first and then getting it down to an art. in the end - their negotiation skills were very impressive.
- Partying at a night club on new years as the Kenyans danced, drank and consumed massive amounts of Khat in joyous celebration. I don't think it's ok to fire off fireworks in Canada from inside a night club. For the record it's more impressive than from across a bay or field :)
- Visited my friend Lucy at her new apartment in Kwangare. Lucy is a TV journalist who has a remarkable understanding of Kenyan/African pop culture and how to communicate that to others through her excellent work. I suspect the kids were a bit surprised by her modest accommodations.
- Enjoyed some African Advertising. "Teeth so white they can't Dance"...and paint "that will last longer than your boyfriend".
- The pleasure of enjoying the social Arabic past-time of smoking Shisha (Double Apple Mint rocks) from a magnificent water pipe on a hot night in a Nairobian dance club.
Thanks for reading....Layno
