Lunch on the Nile

Washing Clothes, Bodies and Motorcycles

A sunny Saturday on The Nile (The white Nile to be specific) In Juba, South Sudan

I'm in Juba, South Sudan this week where it's winter - but still reaches for 40 each day. Mercifully it rarely gets there unlike summer when it can get close to 50! I've always wanted to see The Nile River and it more than lived up to my expectations - slow moving but powerful, one of nature's truly immutable forces.

Joining me for lunch on this fine day is Liz whom I'd met in Lockichoggio some weeks before. Although carrying significant responsibilities and having to confront deeply disturbing social injustices, misery and heartache daily - she is remarkably cool calm and effective. Enviably competent, she is also a terrific conversationalist and the perfect companion for a mid day lunch. And while on the topic of lunch, a Nile beer (naturally) to accompany a beef Fajita followed by a chocolate cake and some kind of toe curling Arabic caffeinated beverage vastly superior to the richest $9 Starbucks offering. Nuuumy!!

JUBA:  Africa's newest and most troubled country

Negotiating the streets of South Sudan's capital city: Juba

The country of 9 million is almost brand new and in some ways is like any 4 year old struggling to understand how to "fits in" as it emerges onto the world stage. The war started in Juba but has moved to the north where the fighting primarily between 2 groups is heaviest. 7 groups are involved in the conflict which also includes assistance/interference from neighbors and friends.  A cynic might say that the rich oil reserves are potentially rewards for alliances that assist one side or the other toward military domination. 

Observers point out that much of the country's wealth (mostly in oil but other mineral reserves as well) has been "pre-sold" at deeply discounted rates to support the current military activities. Those same observers would argue that even with a negotiated solution today (highly improbable given both side believe military dominance is the solution) unfortunately it will be a very long time before basic needs of the population can be addressed. 

From my perspective, the first casualty in a civil war is the "invisible" infrastructure taken for granted in the peaceful, modern, developed world. Garbage collection, road maintenance, community policing, etc.... the list goes on. Pictured above is a street where Land Cruisers are required to move about. While there is pavement - it is not nearly as prevalent as the dirt lanes that snake around and criss-cross the city. There is much work to be done in South Sudan now and in the future and no doubt NGOs  will continue to provide support for this emerging country.

Thanks for reading! Asante Sana!