This destination would mark the 5th where my good friend Barry has shared a travel experience with me in some far off land. To do so, I had traveled to Istanbul from Croatia briefly stopping in Sarajevo/ Bosnia ( ps - it's much cheaper to bus from Croatia and then fly out of Sarajevo) before meeting up at an Air BnB he had thoughtfully arranged. Most importantly, he had the necessary/critical provisions already purchased. Those being coffee and Single Malt Scotch.
Given my previous travels in places like Tunisia and Saudi Arabia - Constantinople (Istanbul) is a fantastic collision of cultures on which much of our modern world is premised. Like a collision between a Ferrari and a Lamborghini, it is both tragic and beautiful all at once.
Istanbul is a swirling and twirling tornado of unusual smells sounds and of course people. We were amazed to see the streets filled with people late into the evening. The picture alongside is not Istanbul but taken later at a "must see" salty landscape. I'd recommend giving this "must see" $30 attraction a hard pass. Not exactly the Red Carpet but Barry looks fetching modeling his modern tourist ensemble.
Now onto the juicy bits of Istanbul. There were 5 days of exploring but for posterity and the hope of others continuing to read my drivel, I'll focus on just three highlights;
A quick review of the where the cradle of civilization began lands us smack dab in the middle of this region. Not surprisingly the museum was cooler than the flip side of the pillow on a hot summer night. I'll share a few snaps but I marveled at the audacity of Tabnit, priest of Astarte and King of Sidon who cleverly wrote on his Sarcophagus that there was no point in breaking in as there was nothing to steal. That and the clearly articulated threat of eternal damnation likely did the trick. I'm going to post the same on my front door. Good thinking Tabnit. Those who fail to learn the lessons of history are doomed to repeat them.
The Sarcophagus below was my favorite piece. The level of detail of mourning woman was amazing. The other side depicts men. Not surprisingly they were looking even more mournful as they prepare to go to war.
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| Amazing detail - and the Museum did an exceptional job with lighting to add a sense of drama and intrigue. |
We were blessed on the day we visited the Blue Mosque and later Hagia Sophia as it raining heavily. Why would that be a good thing? The line up normally measured in "kms of tourists waiting (KTW's)" was down to about 50 meters and while I almost lost an eye due to unskilled umbrella operators in tight proximity, it was a very small wait for both attractions.
Hagia Sofia
Hagia Sophia was originally built as a Byzantine Christian cathedral, later converted into an Ottoman mosque, and is now a mosque again after being a museum. Constructed between 532 and 537 AD, it is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, famous for its massive dome, intricate mosaics, and unique structural design that blended the circular dome with a rectangular base.
What really got me was the sheer size of the cathedral and how that must have appeared to the peoples of that time. It must have been absolutely awe inspiring. Now - if you look at the photo above you'll note a black square just off center to the left. Looking closely you can see two maintenance workers having a smoke break on the steps. That gives a great idea of the size of the place!
As you move around the Cathedral/ Mosque you note all the attempts to cover but not eliminate the Christian accouterments. This gave me a lot of pause for thought and perhaps a glimpse into a leading world where world regions can share rather than compete for shelf space. Looking at the photo beside, you can see (I think it's the VM with JC) obscured from view by the strategically placed drapery. Not destroyed or painted over, but simply obscured. How easy would have been to just plaster over this and so many other Christian bits. Rather - it is saved for posterity and out of respect for our shared world history.
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| Regardless of the number of tourists competing for picture views - it's impressive!! |
I have always believed that fortune favors the brave and so when Barry said "let's drive 3 hours to the middle of nowhere to see if these non-de script ruins are any good or not" "why not was my answer".
What follows is a series if pictures of the temple of Aphrodite along with the surrounding ancient city. Best - in my view is that we shared the experience with a half dozen other adventurous souls that we saw occasionally in the distance. Next best - the level of preservation and authenticity was second to none. Before the Romans before the Ottomans - this goes waaaay back in time.
Now - Like Rocky in the original movie, it js kept getting better and better. Each short walk brought us to impressive ruins in remarkable good condition. Check the detail on the footings of each seat (a combination of the detailed photo and the amphitheater)
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| The stadium at 170 meters in length was spectacular. You can almost imagine the Olympic games underway with thew crowds cheering madly! |
Here at the baths we get a sense of leisure and social time for the cities citizens. There were many baths of different temperatures and size - and I suspect class. The walls and floors were all double layered and hot air pumped throughout to heat the water and the interior space. Must have been cozy!
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A large swimming pool sits just in from of the "city hall" whee you can imagine grass and palm trees and people sitting around on lunch break.
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| One more shot of the swimming pool that blew my mind. It's condition and authenticity is undeniable. |
Another couple impressive Amphitheater and it was back in the car for the long 6 hour drive back to Istanbul. Fortune may favor the brave but it sure is exhausting being favored. Once again I pointed the car and headed to an airport that would take us to Georgia and the topic of my next blog
My last blog brought donations and I am grateful again very thankful for the generosity. I will deliver food to the kiddies in the first week of January - though it's never too soon to send a few shekels if you have extra. Again $50 or equivalent is super helpful. Thanks again to Cliff for another donation - I can't thank you enough!
MPESA -- +254745237248 (Kenya)
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Thanks for reading....Layno in ruins somewhere in southern Turkey!!!
